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Driver's Side Motor Mount

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  #1  
Old 01-08-2014 | 08:05 PM
coors's Avatar
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Default Driver's Side Motor Mount

How the hell do you get at the top bolt? What's the trick for removal? I can get a socket on there but not the ratchet. And a Box wrench is ridiculously tight.
 
  #2  
Old 01-08-2014 | 11:30 PM
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I have not replaced my motor mounts yet, but I got under the truck to take a look. I think that if you take the front left tire off you might be able to get it with a crowfoot flare Nut socket and an extension. Be sure you spray it with liquid wrench or WD-40 and let it soak for an hour and repeat at least one more time. Also, I would be sure to use a "Flare Nut" instead of an "open end" crowfoot so you have less chance of rounding the nut.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sh...FeJF7AodQE4ARQ
Hope this helps
 
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Old 01-09-2014 | 10:01 PM
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If anyone is interested. I ended up using an 18mm gear wrench on that drivers side top nut. Backed the nut off by incremental turns. Quarter turn by quarter turn. Seemed like the only logical way to get it off. Glad it's over with. Hopefully, the new (AllMakes) mounts hold up for awhile.

Now, time for trans mounts.
 
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2014 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by coors
If anyone is interested. I ended up using an 18mm gear wrench on that drivers side top nut. Backed the nut off by incremental turns. Quarter turn by quarter turn. Seemed like the only logical way to get it off. Glad it's over with. Hopefully, the new (AllMakes) mounts hold up for awhile.

Now, time for trans mounts.
Yep I think thats the only way.
 
  #5  
Old 01-10-2014 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by lmcgrew79
Yep I think thats the only way.
Hi

I can't find the previous thread about the vibes and engine mounts. My new genuine LR mounts arrived today (big delay due to Christmas mail) and next week I'll be putting them on the truck. Mines a D2 TD5 so they are slightly different to fit but I'm not sure whether better or worse than the V8. I'll do a write up next week and let everyone know whether the vibes have abated or it's been a wasted effort ( and cash).
 
  #6  
Old 01-10-2014 | 04:54 PM
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Just for info, I have copied this from the Aulro Aussie website regarding the difference new engine mounts make to the vibes and harshness of a D2. I hope this may help some.

" I have had similar problems with a 2004 TD5 (UK).... the new engine mounts solved the problem......

The new engine mountings are now fitted and made a big difference! (thank God!). It cruises at 80 mph now with just wind noise and a bit of a drone from the engine so I guess its as good as it is going to be. The old mountings were goosed - the rubber bits were resting on the metal holder - the new ones gave a clearance of about 10mm. I have also fitted a de-cat pipe which has improved the response from the engine quite a lot... certainly worth doing!

The engine mountings were not too bad to do - I managed to get at the drivers side by removing the fuel cooler and although it was a bit tight everything came undone relatively easily. The passenger side was easier - I did not remove the turbo - a "universal joint" adapter on the socket allowed access.

The de-cat pipe was a nightmare! The crossmember really has to come off and despite buying a good quality 6 sided socket two of the bolts rounded off and I had to grind them away to remove it.... (I used a dremmel - very useful little tool for tight places!) The pipe is just a bit awkward to get in and out but was re-fitted with a bit of fiddling. I found it easier to attach the pipe to the exhaust first and then to the manifold.

Overall the jobs were well worth doing and in particular the new engine mountings have made a huge difference to the car - its much more refined at motorway speeds.. 80 mph used to be unbearable but is now relaxed and quiet.

Hope this info helps... and thanks to all who took the time to offer advice... new gearbox mountings tomorrow - and replace the bit of plastic under the engine..

.... so to get from a clattery, noisy rough car to a relatively quiet refined one I have had to fit recon injectors, new engine mounts, bin the EGR valve and fit a de- cat downpipe... well over a £1000 but I paid under the odds for it so I am still on the right side of its value.... hope it keeps going for a bit now - I am sick of crawling under it! "
 
  #7  
Old 01-12-2014 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by lmcgrew79
Yep I think thats the only way.
X2 That is way we removed it too. Slow process.

We replaced the transmission (rear motor mounts) mounts at the same time as those mounts were in poor shape. My guess is from the front mounts being broken. A good indicator your mounts are broken is a growling noise while accelerating as the catalytic converter rubs the frame rail.

2003 Discovery 140K.
 
  #8  
Old 01-12-2014 | 02:28 PM
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Forgot to add, removal of drivers side too but was best accessed by going down into engine, (remove air ducting) not from below the truck.
 
  #9  
Old 01-12-2014 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by borchera
X2 That is way we removed it too. Slow process.

We replaced the transmission (rear motor mounts) mounts at the same time as those mounts were in poor shape. My guess is from the front mounts being broken. A good indicator your mounts are broken is a growling noise while accelerating as the catalytic converter rubs the frame rail.

2003 Discovery 140K.
My cat rubbed up against the prop shaft. Left a nice little grove in the cat.
 
  #10  
Old 01-12-2014 | 06:52 PM
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Did you guys notice any significant improvements in the vibes and rumbles after the new mounts were fitted? I am told the general engine/transmission noise improves as well. Unfortunately, although I owned my TD5 from new I cannot remember what it was like back then as the degradation in engine mounts is so slow and one gets used to the status quo over 10+ years.
 


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