Electric Drivers 2004 Disco Seat, need leg room
#1
Electric Drivers 2004 Disco Seat, need leg room
I have read many "reverse the tracks" on non electrical seats. Does anyone have pictures or video of how to do it to electrical drivers seat? I am a tall guy and driving with my knees on the dash well... it's getting old quick lol!
Thanks.
trying to add some photos
Thanks.
trying to add some photos
#2
The following 2 users liked this post by xsramo:
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#5
DISCLAIMER: I assume no liability for this modification, do this at your own risk.
For some reason l can't download the pictures from the other post...so I'll try and walk you through it.
Okay, in the first picture of the first post...you are looking at the bottom of the drivers seat. The front of the seat is at the bottom of the picture and the back of the seat is at the top.
There are two long screw mechanisms on each side, at the bottom of the screw is the gear-motor that turns the screw, the other end is connected to the seat frame at the bronze colored fitting that has the allen headed bolt. A few inches below these allen headed bolts are two open bolt holes, left side is slightly rounded and the right is square-ish, these two spots will be where you connect the extension braces you've made.
First, you remove the plastic seat cover (three screws, two on side of seat, one in front by tunnel).
Then move seat all the way forward, go behind the seat through passenger door and take a chisel or sawsall and remove both stop-blocks inside seat frame rail. They are about a half inch by a quarter inch, I beat mine out with a hammer and chisel.
Once stops are removed, move seat to most rearward position, look underneath the seat and you will see both screw mechanisms and the allen headed bolts that hold them to the seat frame/rail. Unbolt each allen head bolt from seat frame/rail. Outer one is easy, inner one more difficult but doable. DO NOT USE ELECTRICAL SWITCH TO MOVE SEATS ONCE THEY ARE REMOVED...IT WILL MAKE ALIGNING HARDER.
Take the braces you've made and install the allen bolts through the larger holes you drilled in braces to the screw mechanism mounts (do not use original holes in frame any longer). Braces should be facing forward, so small 1/4 hole is towards drivers footwell. Get both sides bolted up to braces and slid seat farther rearward manually (by hand).
Then bolt the front end of your braces to the square-ish part of seat frame/rail and the round-ish one on the other side. Use a 1/4 bolt, nut and flat washers. You can see the bolt heads in the completed job in my pictures. If you look at your seat frame prior to starting this job, you will see that these are unused by the factory.
You may have to bow the pieces of metal you made slightly, down, to clear some of the seat framework, but not much.
Basically, you are just moving the location that the screw mechanism is bolted too, from the original seat frame to your extension brace.
Now you can operate the seat switch.
Brian.
Okay, in the first picture of the first post...you are looking at the bottom of the drivers seat. The front of the seat is at the bottom of the picture and the back of the seat is at the top.
There are two long screw mechanisms on each side, at the bottom of the screw is the gear-motor that turns the screw, the other end is connected to the seat frame at the bronze colored fitting that has the allen headed bolt. A few inches below these allen headed bolts are two open bolt holes, left side is slightly rounded and the right is square-ish, these two spots will be where you connect the extension braces you've made.
First, you remove the plastic seat cover (three screws, two on side of seat, one in front by tunnel).
Then move seat all the way forward, go behind the seat through passenger door and take a chisel or sawsall and remove both stop-blocks inside seat frame rail. They are about a half inch by a quarter inch, I beat mine out with a hammer and chisel.
Once stops are removed, move seat to most rearward position, look underneath the seat and you will see both screw mechanisms and the allen headed bolts that hold them to the seat frame/rail. Unbolt each allen head bolt from seat frame/rail. Outer one is easy, inner one more difficult but doable. DO NOT USE ELECTRICAL SWITCH TO MOVE SEATS ONCE THEY ARE REMOVED...IT WILL MAKE ALIGNING HARDER.
Take the braces you've made and install the allen bolts through the larger holes you drilled in braces to the screw mechanism mounts (do not use original holes in frame any longer). Braces should be facing forward, so small 1/4 hole is towards drivers footwell. Get both sides bolted up to braces and slid seat farther rearward manually (by hand).
Then bolt the front end of your braces to the square-ish part of seat frame/rail and the round-ish one on the other side. Use a 1/4 bolt, nut and flat washers. You can see the bolt heads in the completed job in my pictures. If you look at your seat frame prior to starting this job, you will see that these are unused by the factory.
You may have to bow the pieces of metal you made slightly, down, to clear some of the seat framework, but not much.
Basically, you are just moving the location that the screw mechanism is bolted too, from the original seat frame to your extension brace.
Now you can operate the seat switch.
Brian.
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02-24-2009 11:57 AM