I finally got the heads off my 2000 D2. I have found three things:
1) The mechanic is an idiot (permatex on the heads where valley pan bolts)
2) The heads were not "gone thru" (looks like he used a degreaser on them)
3) The mechanic is an idiot!!! (used improper manifold bolts, must have lost the originals)
Also, the back lower head bolt wasn't tight (in other words, I didn't need a 4 foot breaker bar to loosen it)

When I took off the head bolts, there was one that had the dreaded white sludge on it. It was on the passenger side, second bolt from the rear, between the valves. All other bolts were dry. (Question: do the new head bolts come with a white line marked on the top of the bolt? All these were marked that way)

I think I found the main problem with this engine, The freeze plug on the drivers side is gone!! I went to fill the block up with water to see if there was an obvious leak and it drained out just as quick as I poured it in. My guess is the PO was driving, the freeze plug let loose (excessive pressure? rusted? who knows) rapid loss of coolant, you know the rest of the story.....
AB has the freeze plug but what holds it in? I'm taking the heads to the machine shop on Monday. I'm hoping it's just a cracked head or better yet, a bad head gasket job. I don't know if the shop re-used the old bolts or put in new ones. PO said he got the kit from AB. Well that "mechanic" didn't even change the throttle body heater plate and I KNOW that comes with the kit. I'd also like to know how this "mechanic" said it's still taking on water after doing the head gaskets when it just drains on the ground. I don't think that freeze plug fell out from sitting there!

Other findings: Autolite spark plugs covered in carbon. Plug wires look original. They are marked "7mm Hi Temp" some are cracked and torn. Old style bleed screw on radiator hose. Electrical tape on CPS (?) AB is going to love me !!

(tried to upload some pics but keep getting "upload failure" message)

 

Freeze plugs are knocked in with a hammer. Original plugs are champions. Change the wires with 8mm magnecor/kingsborne/STI.

There is a size limit on pics, just use photobucket and copy and paste in the image code.

 

OK. Here's some pics:

Driver's side:


Passenger side. Top bolt, second from left had the white gunk, lower left was not tight


May as well get a valve job done while it's this far apart (185kmi on this engine)

 

(Question: do the new head bolts come with a white line marked on the top of the bolt? All these were marked that way)

Manny people mark the bolts when tightening, to check the right angle of torque

 

besides the valley pan being a little dirty, the heads and block are way cleaner than mine. I also hand the sludge on most of my bolts. they where all hand tight. I am seeing if i can make a pressure leak tester so i dont have to pay $100.00 to rent it. Fun stuff haa.. i may pull my block today ....

 

The engine looks good, much cleaner than the 2 I have stripped so far.
Have the heads cleaned, checked and machined, valves lapped and replace the valve stem seals - they are the blue things in the AB kit.

 

My main concerns are the bluish tint on the one valve. That tells me that valve got hot. (3rd valve from right in pic, that's the cylinder with the sludge on the head bolt) and the greenish color on the rear piston (passenger side). I can speculate but will let the shop find out. Doing some research and looking thru other forums, I found that when you torque the head bolts properly that the final torque readings end up being 50-58ft lbs for the 3 long bolts and 68-72ft lbs for the rest. Before I took them off, I put my torque wrench on the top center (long bolt) to "double check" his work and was at 75ft lbs and still getting a "click" (no movement). He probably over-torqued them. I thought the head gasket kit came with instructions.

Also, I found out to use a 1/2" socket set when removing the head bolts. I busted 2 of my 3/8" drivers trying to get the head bolts off!!!


Eric

 

Yes many use 1/2" impact sockets on head bolts to avoid flying across the garage when the socket breaks with 300lbs of torque on it.

You might as well do the valves, chances are they just need lapping and replacing the stem seals is a good idea.

 

If the guy doesn't find any cracks in the heads then I'll have him do the valves. The machine shop I'm going to says he will charge $45 to magnaflux and pressure test one head and $120 to do a complete valve job. My math tells me that will be $330 for both. I think that's a good deal. I've seen used heads from a junk yard anywhere from $150 to $250 and who knows what condition they're in.

Eric

 

hey Eric, i would read this before you start drawing conclusions...

http://www.landroverworld.org/forums...ad.php?t=18442

8th post down by chongo...