Engine Whine
 

Engine has a whining noise most prominent at high RPM at neutral. I took a steel yard stick and checked the AC, belt tensioner and alternator. On a scale of 1 to 10 the noise level was as follows:

AC = 2
Belt tensioner = 8
Alternator = 4

Listening to the Belt Tension from the yard stick it sounded like a low grinding noise. I assume that is the problem or at least one of them. What else should I check. Should I remove belt and spin all the pulleys to isolate bearing issues etc.?

Thanks

removing the belt and checking each pulley for play and operation, would be next on my list.

If I am just checking the pulleys I am assuming I do not have to remove the viscous fan unless I am replacing belt. Is this correct?

You would be correct, but turning the fan turns the water pump, and it could also be a noise maker.

If it is the tensioner pulley, rule of thumb is if it goes, you should replace all three pulleys cause they all seem to fail around the same time.

Dayco makes an affordable tensioner p/n . 89287. $45 from advance auto, search google for a coupon code and and it cheaper.

You can replace the bearing in the 80mm idler puller (by the ps pump). It is held in with a snap ring. The bearing is a 6304-2RS (got a NTN from eBay for $11 shipped)

You may be able to replace the bearing in the 70mm idler puller (by the alt & tensioner), I couldn't because mine was a plastic replacement pulley. I replaced it with a metal pulley (PQR500060) from Rovahfarm. $20 RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories

It turns out it after spinning everything that it was the 70MM idler pulley thats underneath the alternator and tensioner thats gone bad. I cannot find anyone who has replaced just the bearing successfully. Lots of people talking about doing but no one who actually did it that I could tell. BP of Utah sells the original part for only $26. I guess I will go ahead and replace both and the tensioner pulley. A few more questions.

1) Is the original not metal and do you get a lot quieter with the metal one to be worth ordering this one from Rovah farm.
2) I am assuming the 80mm original is metal and thus the higher cost. BPU sells this one for $50.
3) FInally, I really dont want to wait on parts, is there anyone who has found pulleys locally or succesfully replaced bearing on the 70 mm?

I am subscribing. My engine has had a whine since I bought the truck in 2000.

I just saw a techinical bulletin http://www.landroverclubvi.com/uploa...cement_sec.pdf that recalled early plastic idler pulleys. Does this mean mine is steel and thus I can swap out bearings?