Over the past few months Ive done what I could to get the Discovery in decent shape to be a daily. Ive put a pretty good dent in my things to do list and solved a lot of problems thanks to members of the forum, the how to section, and help from an excellent Land Rover mechanic.

The remaining things to do are:

1. Try to get engine operating temperature down.
Right now my temps are between 205 and 221. Its extremely hot and humid here in Florida so I know I'm going to be on the high side until it cools down a bit but when idling at a stop light 218 is a bit alarming to me. So today I ordered a new 180 thermostat from Lucky8 and being it never drops below freezing here ill flush the system and refill with just distilled water when I get the thermostat

2. Figure out engine noise.
So I'm getting a decent tick from the engine and after some research I'm assuming its either the lifters or a slipped liner. When I bought the LR it was misfiring like crazy, stalling and backfiring. The PO was putting regular gas in it and wasn't keeping up with oil changes. Fortunately he only had it for a year and for the last 4-5 months he just let it sit in his driveway. After doing all I could do I took it to a mechanic who got her back in good running shape. He ran some tests and determined the valves were gummed up. All cleaned up, the misfires were gone but the engine tick was still there. My plan is to check it out when I replace the head gaskets in the winter. They're not leaking but I don't have much history on the car so I would like to do them anyway

3. Oil Leak
Im loosing about a quart of oil a month from what Im assuming to be the oil pan gasket leaking. Its a very slow leak not enough to leave a spot on the ground but enough to saturate the bottom of the oil pan and transmission housing. Putting this one off until its a bit cooler too unless it gets worse.

4. Three amigos
I guess it wouldn't be right if I bought a used LR without them. This is something Im not quite sure where to start. I don't have access to a abs tool and I'm hoping within the next month or two I come across another LR owner with one in my area. For now I'm living with it but its on my things to do.

5. Brakes & Rotors
Need to replace these pretty soon. Pads are at 20% all around. I was planning on ordering this kit off Amazon. Any other recommendations for pads and rotors around this price range? (340.00)

6. Drive Shaft
So Ive heard the horror stories of drive shaft failures in Discovery's and after having a look at mine I'm pretty sure its either been rebuilt or replaced as the front and rear have grease points. Correct me if I'm wrong ill post pictures below.
They still look rough in my opinion so I might replace them just to be safe.










7. Remaining flushes
Power steering/ACE and brakes. Both look somewhat clean but eventually I would like to flush them when I get the more important things out of the way.

8. Codes
I still have my SES light on for 5 remaining codes. Some correspond to what I have listed already

P0453 (Fuel Pressure sensor high)
P0447 (CVS open circuit)
Ive been trying to get to the source of this for the last month now. Ive replaced my fuel pump and pressure sensor with no luck. I have also replace the CVS valve (from a junkyard rover) with no luck as well. Maybe the junkyard valve was too? Im not sure if these EVAP codes are something I should make priority and I'm hoping someone here could give me some insight if this would cause any major problems if not addressed soon.

P1590 (Rough road signal)
From what I understand this has to do with the ABS. No idea how to fix this and I've been putting it off until I look into the Three Amigos as I figures these are linked problems.

P1174 (???)
P1171 (O2 Sensor banks A&B)
After searching for solutions to these codes I've come up short on where to even look some say the gas cap, others the O2 sensors and brake booster. This code just popped up a few weeks ago. Anyone here know where to start diagnosing this?

Any advice, tips or donations are welcome. Really looking forward to knocking this stuff off the list so I can finally have some fun with this thing.
Just kidding about the donations... Kind of

 

Your rotoflex is cracked. It needs replaced as well.

 

Thats a nice looking D2. He is correct though that rotoflex is looking tired...

 

Check this out. This is a great buy. I had this installed in my trucks and still have extra fro drive shaft. Cheers!

 

Thanks guys ill look around for a new rotoflex as well. I saw AB has a conversion kit too wondering if its worth the extra hundred bucks>

 

Reading back about your temperature. I did the 180 thermostat and dropped over 10 degrees. Looking at your temperature, that is normal without any conversion. Your system is properly working, no clogs etc. Replacing the thermostat will definitely lower your temps.

 

Thats not bad at all, Ive always been skeptical about buying things like brakes and rotors off eBay. Im assuming you've had no trouble with these? For the price I almost can't pass it up for ceramic pads.

 

I am familiar with EBC and used it since my 1st truck was new. I bought one set of these when budget wont allow any more and was very happy. Bought 2 more sets and replaced the other trucks almost a month ago and I am very pleased with the stopping power and no squeak.
I recommend getting the brake paint and paint it before installing but use an oven degreaser and alcohol to clean first. . I did the rest and very happy with result dont worry about over spraying on the rotors, it will fade few corners away.

About,
P1174 (???)
P1171 (O2 Sensor banks A&B)
The only way I was able to get those codes out was replacing injectors. O-rings were leaking. I did this 3 weeks ago, maybe.

 

There is a lot to the cooling system. You want to narrow down what you can.

1 - Clean Coolant? Little silver or white flakes on top of your coolant in your reservoir when motor is cold would suggest a disintegrating water pump prop.

If you live in a hot climate, sure, you can run almost all water, but for water pump lubrication, extra cooling, and a little rust protection you want to add a bottle of Redline's Water Wetter to your almost-all-water "coolant."

Does your coolant smell like exhaust or have an oil sheen on top when cold? These would suggest more severe motor issues (e.g. blown head gasket).

2 - Radiator Debris? Mushed-up radiator fins? It doesn't take much to reduce the cooling capacity of your radiator. You can *test* if your radiator is "under-sized" now due to fins getting smushed or passageways closed a bit...hit the ECON button on your A/C and run high heat (max!) to your floorboard while monitoring your coolant temperature, as this takes advantage of your heater core as a supplemental radiator (obviously temporary for testing only).

3 - Leaks? Leaks, a failing reservoir cap, or a loose coolant reservoir cap will reduce your cooling ability (i.e. your motor will run hotter).

4 - Air Burp? Lots of ways to burp air out of your Disco, but my way is one no one else does (so it might suck!) which is to loosen the bleed screw while motor is cold, start the motor, and run it until hot coolant is coming out, then close the bleed screw. Other posters will suggest raising your coolant reservoir and different ways...but the real point is that air is an insulator, not a coolant. More air inside your hoses means hotter motor.

5 - Electric Fan? Remove your front grill and see if your auxiliary electric fan comes on as soon as you start your cold motor with your A/C running.

6 - Thermostat? Thermostats might fail completely (overheating), or simply not open fully or else not open fully at the correct temp.

7 - Water Pump? With the motor cold, yank on the left side and then yank on the right half of your water pump pulley. Your bare hand shouldn't be able to "wobble" it. Wobble means bearing failure which likewise means a hotter-running motor due to lower coolant velocity or pressure.

8 - Fan Clutch? Your main fan should come on a lot. It's only going to be off when you are cruising at a reasonable speed on the highway (ok, I exaggerate). With your motor off and cold, you should NOT be able to freely spin your main fan blades like a fidget spinner. You should instead feel pressure turning the main fan blades. Speaking of fan blades, are they all there?! All intact?! The less air that they move, the hotter your motor will run.

9 - oil? Low oil level, dirty oil, old oil, and maybe even different types or weights of oil can impact the temp your motor is running. Likewise, if your oil looks milky then that would suggest a head gasket leak.

10 - transmission, transfer case, front axle, and rear axle fluid levels? Low fluid levels in your drivetrain increase resistance against your motor and in some cases could increase motor temps slightly.

 

Im going to take your advice and order them, ill be sure to clean them and brake paint them like you said. Can't beat the price and I am most certainly on a budget right now.

As for the injectors that sounds like it could be the culprit, Ive noticed a slight smell of gas at cold starts but goes away after a few minutes. I would imagine its about their time and wouldn't hurt to replace the O-rings anyway. Might have to wait till I get to the head gaskets. Without a garage or any shade the sun is really kicking my butt, Im loosing more sweat than the Rovers loosing oil...