Hi Everyone,

This is my first post in this forum.

Having already done three engine overhauls and all types of repairs with other Disco's - I recently bought a TN flood damaged 2004 Disco at an insurance auction. Thought it would a nice present for my daughter in college based on what I can afford. Call me crazy, but it has low 20's original miles, no dings or dents, pretty much showroom condition except for electrical water damage so far. I'm trying to get a hold of the insurance adjuster or former owner to find out how bad water exposure was. Right now, I'm on an information gathering trek before starting to repair. Your experience and input it is so much greatly appreciated.

Here's what I have encountered at the surface:

Dashboard instrument panel does light up.
Radio, p/ windows, p/ locks, p/ seats, sunroof do not function. Doors cannot be opened from inside or out, only driver's side.
A/C blower does turn on and a/c panel lights up.
Car will not start, nor do you hear starter motor cranking.
Headlights work. No turn signals or emergency flashers though.
No water inside engine, very clean oil. So it looks like engine may not have been running when flood occurred.
Water in air filter. I'll probably have to clean out injectors just in case.
It does look like water level inside car when up to fuse panel under steering wheel.

I'm able to get ABS codes read thru Bearmach Hawkeye scanner, but getting "data link" connection error to EMS. It may be fried.

I may be able to get computer units, SLABS, SRS, tranny control unit, radio amp, ign key s/w, door key s/w all matching from a 2003 Disco. If I do so, theoretically, there is no need for dealer programming?

I'm not much worried about engine except for MAF, O2, CPS, etc. sensors.

Once again, all input is most welcomed!

Thanks and hopefully I'll have a good end story to share.

 

You should ask 03discoman, he rebuilt his after if actually burt up in flames so he would know better than anyone i would say. His looks incredible.. Myself, i bought a almost mint condition with no water damage and my motor blew a month after i bought it.... You should know they are money pits. I did get may daughter to buy one. A 2000 SE7 DIi and she got it for $3,800.00.. DOING ALL THE NORMAL STUFF FOR THIS YEAR TRUCK, HEADLINER, ROOF LEAK, BACK DOOR SEAL LEAKIN...NOISE IS LIKE A WINDOW CRACKED....WOOSH....DRIVE ME NUTS....ALL O2'S, INDUCTION CLEANING , REPLACE RADITOR, HOSES, THINGS FALIN OFF IN SIDE BUTTONS AND CRAP... THE USUAL QUALITY CRAP...

i WOULD PRETEND YOU NEVER FOUND IT.....

 

Hey Vandev...I have to ask. Didn't you just post that you tore your engine down and found that some a-hole had tried to rebuild it and did a horrific job? I will agree that these vehicles do require more upkeep than most, but I have a 2001 with 114,000 miles on it and IT HAS NEVER LET ME DOWN. Yes, I had to invest in new head gaskets (DIY $500), new headliner ($100), my rear door seal leaks, but who cares? New O2's ($60 each), new radiator ($300 DIY). I had a jeep that needed more love than my Rover. For those of us that like to tinker and work on their own cars, the Rover is the perfect vehicle. I know it gets frustrating at times, but you only respond to folks with negative opinions and tell everyone who asks to stay away for Land Rover. Maybe you should have examined your vehicle a little more closely before you purchased it.

 

It sounds like there is an ecu or computer issue there, maybe even related to the alarm system. I would say it is just a list of starting on the easy ones. Flood damage is really not that bad and can be fixed relatively easy; hopefully you got a great deal it.

I would go through and replace and check all fuses, signals from each computer and then replace from there. Get the Rave manual if you do not have it already and just start on the list.

 

yes, thats what i am thinking by what i found tearing it down....

I just sold my 95 RR 4.0 se that went 300,000k and i put on 200k of that. And yes head gaskets and everything else you mentioned plus abs booster, full air suspension rebuild.etc etc... I really liked the truck ...but i could work on it. My wife...she wouldnt go near it and i couldnt blame here..For thoes who like to tinker and work on there own trucks...you couldnt have picked a better model than the disco...i got over the frustration wheni realized it was a POS...I still like mine but wish i cold afford a defender..i am trying to get a diesel conversion going on mine...then i would like it..a little more.. I am not negitive but honest...hey they cut corners and built a power plant that was a pile...then they acted like nothing was wrong with it when ....everything was wrong with its design... It's hard to check head bolts on a truck on the lot. Any truck or car is a gamble..Im just saying that adding water damage to a truck you already have to deal with issues could be gaughting....Ive had rovers for 10m years now and the disco is new to me and so far i am not really impressed...too bad we cant get diesels in them ...

hey , i am is south florda also and if you want i could come give you a secound opinion...email me...

 

Amen to the Defender. Saw a bunch of them in Brazil and they are very sweet. Someday, when I hit the lottery... Until then, the Disco it is.

 

there is one every 10 sq miles here in south florida....saw 4 today just driving around this morning.

 

You will need the engine computer, the trans computer, the body control unit and a crank position sensor.
No water in the oil I am guessing the water was less than mid way up the doors.
The diffs and t-case and trans will all need the fluids changed.
U-joints changed.
Cd changer is under the passenger seat, need to change that.
No water will be in the injectors unless water is in the gas thank and they tried to run it.
Water cant get into the gas tank unless the entire truck was under water.
The fuse blocks will need to be replaced.

 

hey guys..

i have plenty of experince with wiring harness after the fire in my 03...

the first thing you need to do right now (ASAP) is tear the interior out and expose the wiring harness in the passenger cabin...

save your interior wiring now...while you still can....if moisture is near the harness...you need to air it out and start saving the wiring from corrosion like ground points .....i'm with the others on replacing any electrical components inside the passenger floor area....dont risk it....

if you find a d2 in a junk yard....you'll be able to get all of the interior electronics cheap enough to make this worth while....

just tear the interior out and goto the yard and work out a deal on a d2 interior and all the wiring i could do this for 600-1000$ ...reuse what you can and you'll be okay wiring and interior wise........

i bet lots of relays and fuseable links are blown.....check those first before you try and give any power to the rest of the truck....that might resolve many issues

 

You read my thoughts! That is exactly what I was planning on doing.

I spent the past three days taking out interior and cleaning all connectors/sensors with anti-corrosion, water-dispersant electronics spray cleaner. Surprinsingly, everything was dry and there NO signs of corrosion anywhere except cd changer and radio amp. I took down BCU, opened and looked for any short circuit glow marks and none were there. Spray it and blew it with air compressor specially under main chip. Took fuse panels and did same (no blown fuses either). I turned ignition to II for 20 mins and no sync or any activity took place. I'm thinking also Independent Driver Module (IDM) integrated into passenger fuse panel that powers BCU. I'll try to buy used one tomorrow and see if that may do it. I checked ground terminals next to engine fuse panel and generator and they are bright and shiny. I'm saying BCU because it controls:

BCU inputs

The BCU processes signals received from the following components:

Fuel flap release switch.

Which is exactly what is not working. Most likely prior owner or dealer must have tried turning ignition after flood while BCU was wet and probably fried it.

My main concern is that if it is the BCU (which I can buy used locally for $150), who can program it to mantain same low miles (26K) car now has and use same door keys/remote? Will the LR dealer program used BCU based on VIN and data on current BCU and what cost? Are there any shops that repair LR BCU's?

Once I'm able to tap into BCU and read codes, then I can do other neccessary repairs.