So I sold my 1969 Landcruiser FJ40 and bought a 1997 Discovery. It seems to have been pretty well maintained and has 118000 on it. I am changing the oil this weekend and am wavering on the whole engine flush thing. I have read some of the posts about the ATF flush. My question is this. Is this atf flush superior to the flush in a can products that are made specifically for this? Also what are some of the more popular motor oil choices and should i go full synthetic. Thanks for any opinions.
Wayne

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OH EM GEE that is a gorgeous FJ. How much did you sell the yota for!?@

Not sure about the flush. But for a full synthetic I only use Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is my next choice for a full synthetic, since it is available everywhere.

 

The ATF flush is much more effective than the flush-in-can stuff. Drain the oil and refill the engine with 6 quarts of cheap store brand ATF. Let the motor idle for 15-20 minutes without revving the engine.

Drain the ATF and change the filter. I would use an oil like Valvoline Maxlife or Mobil high mileage 5000 for 1000 miles to clear out any leftover sludge or ATF.

After 1000 miles drain the oil and swap to a Mobil M-301 filter and 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 Truck & SUV. This worked for my rover at 134,000 miles.

Cheers,

Pete

 

My name is Pete too.


Would the ATF flush like you described work in the DII as well? My engine is clean now, but for the future..

 

The flush worked well on my 99 DII.. I've always done it before any major engine work just to get all of the sludge out of the top end (previous vehicles)..

Also, I am interested in opinions on oil weight in FL. I now use mobil 1 10w40 because of the high temps in the summer and the mild winters. Just wondering if any body has opinions on which weight is better??

 

Any engine should work. These motors can never be too clean.

And yes, it is an awesome name.

Happy Roving,

Pete

 

Hey fellow floridian! I use a 15w40 weight (heavy duty diesel weight) This is a little on the extreme side. 10w40 is a great choice. I'm actually going to try using 10w40 my next couple oil changes and see which weight makes my engine run smoother.

 

Wanix-If you flush the engine be prepared to drop the oil pan and clean the oil pick up tube screen. If to much sludge is set free it can clog the oil pick up tube.
Your truck takes 7 quarts. DI's have a oil cooler DII's do not.
If you just switch to full synthetic oil it will clean as you drive. Diesel oil will too as both are highly detergent motor oils.
Tailchaser-You can use 20w-50 or 15w-50, or 15w-40. Because of where you live you will benifit from a thicker motor oil. You r engine will be quieter and you will have fewer leaks and less oil burning if any at all.

 

It seems DII's had oil coolers until a certain VIN in 2002. It is beyond me why an engine which needs an oil cooler suddenly does not, but engineers are a dirty lot of people who don't always have a good reason for the things they do. I am fortunate enough to have the oil cooler.

Cheers,

Pete

 

Even though I also did a ATF flush when I purchase my Disco, my opinion there's no flush on the market (in a can or ATF) that can de-sludge the engine with one application.

The reason I did aATF flush was because I was having a oil pressure problem.I wanted to see if my oil pressure would change after the AFT flush, it did not.Which lead into me doing a top-end rebuild.

You stated your 97 was well maintained so it's safe to assumeyou're not having any oil pressure related issues.If that's the case, I wouldn't bother with any kind of flush. Either use a high detergent motor oil or synthetic for your first oil change. Another option is to substitueone qt of motor oil for one qt of trans oil (5 qts oil - 1 qt ATF) for your first oil change. Either one of these three options will slowly de-sludge and clean the engine over time.