Found/considering 2004 disco se7. Need advice
#11
02-28-2014 | 09:11 AM
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
So I checked out another 2004 Disco SE7. It has 101K on it and they are asking a little over 7K for it. It's in good shape other than both bumpers having small cracks and there being a dime sized rust spot on the driver's side corner of the roof. The undercarriage has some rust (but I figure I can have that treated and proofed). I took it to a shop for an inspection and the diff lock was stuck, but they were able to loosen it from underneath and now it works with no warning light. The dealer also had the car's steering pump replaced as well as the cam (was told it was worn and the car was smoking upon trade in). The engine didn't show signs of oil leaks around any gaskets. There was a small pool of coolant on the head bolt area under the throttle body (no visible leak), but I'm wondering if that was left over from the engine work done to replace the cam. Ran great, other than the small lag that felt like higher torque converter stall when starting from a stop (I'm thinking it was because of the diff being locked)? If this stuff seems reasonable or normal operation, I'd be interested in purchasing the vehicle. Any advice is really appreciated. Thanks again guys. BTW, I love the fact that this forum gives great technical advice. The Mercedes forums aren't useful at all, unless the advise you are looking for is "take to the dealer".
I bought a 2004 Dicso II with 126K with a very good maintenance history.
Now I do have a slight tick that comes and goes but I have ZERO leaks no coolant loss and a truck that runs cool as seem via my ultragauge. I just had the 100K major service done and the truck runs like new.
I paid 3000 dollars for it.
I am suspect of people selling these Rovers for over the NADA retail listing. Even in perfect condition there not worth 8K unless you buy one that is "trail ready" with all sorts of toys added (big tires, lifted ARB bumpers lights ect).
Then maybe you can justify it.
#12
02-28-2014 | 10:16 AM
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 17
Looked for months for a low mileage, 04 SE7. Finally found one, paid $12K last year with 50K mi. It was exactly what I was looking for and had zero issues...until it did. 1 week later the tick came, then the coolant smell. Now has a top hat block in it.
To be honest, I'd probably do it again. Could have found a cheaper one, but this needs to be a reliable car for us, not just a toy. I guess I'd rather put a $6K engine into a "like new" DII than one that has 2-4X as much wear on the interior/exterior/driveline/electrical...just wouldn't make sense, and I don't really see these being reliable without a Top Hat conversion. I've wanted one of these for 14 years, and now I have one in great shape, reliable and with more power for $18K and am really happy, but I understand everyone's situation is different.
There was a monent though (while processing my credit card for $6K) where I thought "@#$!...shoulda just bought my parents Land Cruiser!"
To be honest, I'd probably do it again. Could have found a cheaper one, but this needs to be a reliable car for us, not just a toy. I guess I'd rather put a $6K engine into a "like new" DII than one that has 2-4X as much wear on the interior/exterior/driveline/electrical...just wouldn't make sense, and I don't really see these being reliable without a Top Hat conversion. I've wanted one of these for 14 years, and now I have one in great shape, reliable and with more power for $18K and am really happy, but I understand everyone's situation is different.
There was a monent though (while processing my credit card for $6K) where I thought "@#$!...shoulda just bought my parents Land Cruiser!"
#13
02-28-2014 | 12:16 PM
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
I called the shop and they said that the cam and followers were changed. dr. mordo, I saw your posts on using synthetic some time ago, do you still? Chicago winters are brutal and I've used mobile-1 5-40 synthetic in our cars, but they are newer engines. That being said, I've been a loyal synthetic user (I know this has been covered many many many times), but what oil and filter are you currently using?
#15
02-28-2014 | 10:16 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 51
From: Tampa, FL
I called the shop and they said that the cam and followers were changed. dr. mordo, I saw your posts on using synthetic some time ago, do you still? Chicago winters are brutal and I've used mobile-1 5-40 synthetic in our cars, but they are newer engines. That being said, I've been a loyal synthetic user (I know this has been covered many many many times), but what oil and filter are you currently using?
That "stupid oil thread" has some bad info in it. Those monster filters are quite possibly a bad idea, and one of the techs from Wix actually said they would starve our engine of oil. But nobody bothers to read that far into the thread.
Last edited by dr. mordo; 02-28-2014 at 10:23 PM.
#19
03-01-2014 | 10:59 AM
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 17
Probably...didn't have an UG for first few months so who knows really. The HG failing was slight...faint smell of coolant and waterfall sound in cab even after bleeding the system but not really any noticeable drop in reservoir. Probably would have been fine for another 10K mi but who knows.
#20
03-01-2014 | 11:07 AM
TReK
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,748
Likes: 505
From: Seattle, Wa
Severe overheating is what generally causes slipped liners which is why it is very important to keep the cooling system in top shape.
There are posters on here who have asserted (with documented evidence) that all blocks were screened ultrasonically at the foundry and the ones with the thickest cylinder walls were used for 4.6s. Consequently a 4.6 block should withstand somewhat more overheating than a 4.0.
From my research I've seen no documented evidence to indicate there was a difference in the "softness" of the aluminium between a 4.0 and a 4.6.
Either way they all end up with problems if overheated. Bottom line, do everything you can to buy a vehicle that has not been overheated and then once you own it make sure you never overheat it by practicing obsessive PM on the cooling system.
There are posters on here who have asserted (with documented evidence) that all blocks were screened ultrasonically at the foundry and the ones with the thickest cylinder walls were used for 4.6s. Consequently a 4.6 block should withstand somewhat more overheating than a 4.0.
From my research I've seen no documented evidence to indicate there was a difference in the "softness" of the aluminium between a 4.0 and a 4.6.
Either way they all end up with problems if overheated. Bottom line, do everything you can to buy a vehicle that has not been overheated and then once you own it make sure you never overheat it by practicing obsessive PM on the cooling system.
Last edited by Dave03S; 03-01-2014 at 11:11 AM.