This just started happening and I recently did my window regulator. Is it safe to assume it is the actuator? Could it be connectivity? or anything else?

 

You could be lucky and it is as simple as the actuator was not plugged in properly and it vibrated loose, but I doubt it

Probably time to pull your wallet back out!

 

I just went through this. The cold weather this winter finally did one of my lock motors in.

It's admittedly a fair amount of work to replace one, I'd say 3 stars out of 5 having just done one last night.

You have to remove the inside door card and speakers, window trim, and then the window and window frame as a unit.

Then you'll need to unplug the harness, unhook the pull handle cable, remove the 3 T25 torx screws, and drop it down in the door to remove it.

Having done this before, with all of the tools in front of me, it now takes me 60 minutes end to end. The first time, it took twice that.

The tools:

- T25 Torx key
- T40 Torx key
- PZ2 philips z bit/ screwdriver
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Panel trim tool
- Small/ medium flat bladed screwdriver.
- Duct tape (to repair the holes you're going to put in your moisture barrier.

Good luck!

 

Also before you tear into the door. Try replacing the battery in the key fob. Maybe no juice or not enough.

 

x1 I found the ole Paj was slow to respond to the key fob. I thought the locking system was f-----d as I needed to be closer and closer to the truck for it to open and in the past week I almost had my nose on the door side window until yesterday it failed totally and I had to open the door by the key ( no superlock on this baby) So last evening I opened up the fob and changed the battery (a 2025) and bingo, it now works everwhere from 10+ yards away. I then realised the fob still had the old original battery in it .................. hmmm, I felt cheated ................... it was only 8+ years old and was in the fob before I bought the truck (the old battery was a Renata which are very good )

So worth a try changing the fob battery before committing to major door surgery first ............ nothing ventured, nothing gained.

I have to admit I was in the UK when both my front drivers door and rear door actuators failed simultaneously and my pal who has a garage fitted them for me when he serviced the truck some years back so I didn't know what's involved ................ thankfully . Mind you the actuators from a main LR stealership cost a small fortune even back then .

 

Does the lock/unlock button next to the climate control work to unlock the door?

 

That is not working for it either. I put my ear to the door this morning and thought I could hear a click in the passenger door. We'll see.

It will open when you pull the door handle on the inside, but that exerts a lot more force.

After my window regulators I took off my moiture barrier because it was so beat up. Maybe that is affecting it somehow. Going to take a look this weekend.

 

That is not working for it either. I put my ear to the door this morning and thought I could hear a click in the passenger door. We'll see.

It will open when you pull the door handle on the inside, but that exerts a lot more force.

After my window regulators I took off my moiture barrier because it was so beat up. Maybe that is affecting it somehow. Going to take a look this weekend.

 

If you pop off the door trim and then push the unlock/lock button next to the clock and see the actuator moving, then you just have something disconnected (maybe a missing rod or something).

If when you push the button and nothing happens, then you need to check all electrical plugs and make sure it is getting power.

Finally, if that still doesn't fix it, you will need to replace the actuator. And as previously mentioned, they are a major pain to replace. For me anyway. Maybe if you have small, dainty hands, it's not as a bad...

 

Reading through unfortunately it does sound like the door actuator but before you commit $$$$$$$$ to it re-check the wiring to the actuator and ensure you haven't disturbed the electrical connector being the actuator wiring and regaulator wiring all pass throught the same hole in the leading edge of the door. Also 'wiggle' the wiring in the door as it may have a broken conductor in one of the wires. Final option, I'm afraid, is go for your wallet once again.