I git a noticeable shimmy at about 40 mph today and from what i read I have put together a plan of attack but need advice. I plan to do an inspection of tie rods and bushings tomorrow, followed by greasing everything, changing the diff fluid, and transmission fluid and getting an allignment.

What type of grease should I use? Never changed "diff" fluid, is this easy to find in the rave or any advice? Anything i should be looking for in particular as the shimmy went from barely there to noticeable today? Is the transfer case referring to the transmission? Just when I start to think I know something, the truck exposes me as a noob all over again.

 

The transfer case is behind the transmission, towards the right passenger side(er maybe left, idk you can't miss it, it has a grid pattern on it), you'll see a drain plug towards the bottom at an angle, you'll find it annoyingly close to the 2nd(or middle) cross bar. You'll need a 1/2 inch extension to take it out. The fill plug for the t-case is on the back side where it will probably be blocked by the hand brake cable. You'll just need to wiggle your way through it. It helps to have a universal joint for this job.

The differentials are really easy to do, I did mine last week. You'll see the drain plug at the bottom of each differential with the fill plug about 1/3 the way up. You'll need about 4 qts total of gear oil for both diff's. Each one takes about 1.8 qts. Just use a hand pump and keep pumping until the fluid starts to come out.

For all 3 jobs make sure you can take out the fill plug before taking out the drain plug. Also your miles aren't that high but if you want to, some people recommend switching to a heavier weight gear oil for better wear protection. I changed my diff's with 75-140 mobil 1 synthetic, and my t-case with regular 85-140 dino. This, as opposed to the 75-90 synthetic recommended in the manual.

 

Why don't you start with the basics, when was the last time you did a balance and rotate?
Read my list at the top of this section on major services and after you correct the shake issue do a service, yourself , so you will learn more about your truck.

 

Mike, balance and rotate is something you take into the shop for, right?
I can't imagine that there is a easy way to balance a tire in a garage.

Also, these are the last of items off the list that I have yet to do and have been pulling right from your list / bugging you every two weeks or so on the phone. Thanks again for all the help.

 

Ben,
You should also check the flex coupling on the rear drive shaft. Look for cracks in the rubber. Replaced mine recently, and got an alignment, both of which make it drive smooth and straight.

Best,
Dave

 

X2 on what Mike said. These vehicles seem very critical of tire balance. Years ago on the highway close to home, I noticed a severe vibration at 70MPH, so I slowed to 60MPH and limped home. I was fearing the front drive shaft (hadn't rebuilt it yet), the flex coupler, or something worse. Turned out to be my left rear wheel was .25 ounces out of balance.

I signed up with a local tire store I trust (long time relationship from work) on their lifetime rotation, balance, and road hazard plan. It cost me about $100, which paid for itself when I got an unrepairable flat tire a week later and got a new tire for 90% off retail. I have them rotate and balance my tires at every oil change (4-5k miles). That might be excessive, but it's now basically free, and I get to read Road and Track in their waiting room

 

So, I expect to catch a lot of flack for this, but I have never rotated my tires in 15 years of Rover ownership, and they have lasted just fine. The owner's manual also states not to interchange tires front to rear.

My BMWs had different sized tires front to rear and could only be switched side-to-side, which I never did either.

Balancing and alignment, yes. Rotation no.

I do, however, check my tire pressure every week, as I do with coolant and oil.

Thanks,
Dave

 

x2 front end alignment or tire balance, which only a shop can do for a few bucks.