Has anyone tried to refinish the center panel around the shifter once it's scratched up? It's a one piece from the lighter back and up around the window switches. Was going to try wet sanding it and respraying clear coat??

 

I know that you can sand and recover with a veneer. Not sure on re top coat .
I sanded and used plastic resin glue and a wenge veneer, vacuum press and worked perfectly.

 

I have the same walnut console piece. I have not refinished it. I think it is covered in lacquer, you would need to add more coats of lacquer, and then complete a hand rubbed finish. It would be a process of 5-6 coats. Let dry for 36 hours. then use a felt block and rotten stone(black powder) to ramp up the polish. The results are well worth the effort. I used to work at Rockler and teach wood working classes. Then finish the process with pumice.

Rockler - Search Results for rotten

 

I get the emails from Rockler all the time, nice operation!. I can do basic wood work but perhaps I can find a shop that would refinish it? The other option like Dusty mentioned is any of a variety of veneers. Might go all turned aluminum insted of walnut or just that simple rubber mat from BP Utah and call it a day. Been working on lights (LED) and upgraded all the stereo stuff so the mods continue....

 

"Been working on lights (LED)"
where you sourcing those from?...

 

mostly from www.superbrightleds.com, fogs, parking, turn(s) tails and a 24" double row light bar for the new brush bar. was going to do wider one on the roof rails but glare across winshield and hood, much smarter in front :-) Sorted by highest "relative brightness" first. stop lights are 3x flash then constant which will probably annoy anyone behind me. Going to change the rear bumper back up lights from red/white to single LED white bars

 

Do you have any pictures? Also, I'd like to know which bulbs you used to replace the stock bulbs. I'd like to do the same thing.

 

Yes, what you need to do is sand out the scratches, and sand the whole thing down to 600 grit level to get a good key. Then it is a matter of applying several layers of varnish - polyurethane is good, but not water based - you want the solvent based stuff. I like minwax quick drying polyurethane varnish. You can also use spar varnish. Build up 6 coats, sanding gently with 800 grit every 2 coats after they have dried. The last one, put on very carefully after removing all dust with a tack cloth. Let it dry in a dust free place. Also, use a new brush for the last coat.

The original finish is acrylic, tough as nails so don't try to remove it or strip it - just cover over it.

 

Thanks so much for the "diy" Mark, it's sitting on the worktable for a week or two now. Thought about aluminum, bedliner, leather to match gaithers, etc. Stock wood better.

 

Here's the front, headlight finishers are getting DRL's