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Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 08:28 PM
  #11  
JBEGIN's Avatar
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Winching
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

ok thanks for the heads-up, and when i start looking towards new suspension ill start there. Driveshaft first, tho, i havent drove the thing in maybe 2 weeks. gotta get thaT DONE .
 
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 08:47 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

yeah... if not then you will be replacing your transmission too... i wonder why no one else has chimed in at any point on this...
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Last edited by discoxd; Aug 15, 2011 at 03:09 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 08:52 AM
  #13  
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?


ORIGINAL: JBEGIN

OK I Will...=)
How many miles on your truck, how often do you grease them????
If this is a high miler and you haven't been good about greasing them twice a year, replace all 4 to prevent a failure.
Also when rebuilding a double cardo, you ALWAYS replace both u-joints not one and you must replace the centering ball kit or you will have a drive shaft failure real quick.
Suggest using Percision 344 u-joints and a 617 Percision centering ball kit.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 03:01 PM
  #14  
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Winching
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

Going with a whole new Driveshaft from Tom Woods. Ordered it today and it should be heresometime week after next. Also I started her up Today and took a nice & easy ride around the parking lot where i live. there was a slight noise coming from underneath while driving slow, and so i just pulled her back in my spot and parked.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 04:29 PM
  #15  
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Winching
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

The Saga continues, my new driveshaft came in, and it turns out that it was sent with the wrong end yoke. The mechanic had to push my truck out of the bay because for some reason the rear wheels wouldnt move!!! Im hoping my t/case isnt seized up, or that ive been unknowingly driving with the CDL in the wrong position...
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 05:32 PM
  #16  
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

The truck would not move if there is a driveshaft out as the "drive" will just exit the easiest option, ie front out put of the transfer box will just spin and you wont go no where, to move / drive it with either front or rear shaft removed, you have to engage the CDL
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 05:46 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

so now i wouldlike to ask, to engage CDL a clockwise rotation would do the trick if what ive been told is correct? and what is the location of said CDL, ihave a picture of a t/case but want to be able to explain to my mechanic when its time to get it back in the shop where it is and how to go about engaging it.thanks urban panzer!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 07:19 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

ORIGINAL: JBEGIN

so now i wouldlike to ask, to engage CDL a clockwise rotation would do the trick if what ive been told is correct? and what is the location of said CDL, ihave a picture of a t/case but want to be able to explain to my mechanic when its time to get it back in the shop where it is and how to go about engaging it.thanks urban panzer!
yes to engage it you turn it about 30* clockwise using a 10mm spanner, you can "feel" it go click into position as the ball and spring inside "drops" in.

This is assuming you have a CDL offcourse

Heres a picture from above (trim out) but it gives you a location ref . The shaft you see in the pciture is the rear of the front propshaft

 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 08:48 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

Why wouldnt I have a CDL?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 09:19 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: Greasable U-joints and Driveshaft or Not?

When then owner, BMW, designed the DII, they dropped the cdl feature that the DI had; however they kept using leftover DI spec transmissions until they ran out mid year 2001 model(Ford owned then). Your 1999 DII does have the cdl, but does not have an interior handle to engage it (can be retrofitted with a DI handle or the re-introduced 2004 cdl handle).

You can reach up from under the truck with a 10mm wrench to engage, as noted earlier. Just feel on top of the case for the stud surrounded by three bolt heads.
 
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