Hello there have a question on the harmonic balancer removal other than the bolt lol.
what is used to pull the balancer off the crankshaft?
and what size is the nut?
and 240 foot punts torque ?

thanks

 

200' lbs of torque
Sorry, I forget the bolt head size.
With the bolt out, you should not need a puller to remove it, as it is Not a taper lock or press fit.
A couple hits with a deadblow, plastic or rubber hammer will break it loose if it's stuck on the crank.
A little penatrating oil ahead of time to seep in will help it break loose from any corrosion too.
You can break it loose by putting the socket on the nut, and attaching a breaker bar horizontally with the handle resting on the frame. Then, bump the starter(turn the ignition key enough to rotate the engine, but not start it), that will easily break the bolt loose.
To reinstall, with the oil pan off, jam a block of wood between a crank journal and the block while you torque it.
That'll hold it, then rotate it back, remove block, and put the pan on(remember to put a new o-ring on the pickup tube).

 

perfect that what I am looking for as I have an oil leak in the front so I am going to due need seal gaskets there and oil pump and timing chain

 

I will post the bolt head size once I'm home later, if no one else has by then.
Replacing the 3 studs on the bottom of the timing cover with bolts makes things easier.
And, remember to put loctite on the pump gear cover plate screws(inside the timing cover). They are posidrive screws, a machine thread with a countersunk big phillips head, and pack the gears full of assembly lube and/or vaseoline.

 

Interesting - the guy on the Atlantic British says you can just use a air hammer because 200 ft lbs is hard to achieve. So that is what I did when I put mine on. You got me wondering now if I should find a way to go back an tighten it to spec.

 

I have heard that, done that on several vehicles...and never will again.
I had a bolt come loose for that reason on an 01 4runner 3.4 V6(timing belt job).
It buggered the threads really, really bad.
I was thinking I would have to replace the crank.
Fortunately, my Dad is a now retired engineer/tool and die maker. He was able to work some magic and rethread it.
It was not easy, even for all his years.
Now, I Always, Always torque them(with a drop of medium loctite). I had always torqued most everything anyway.
I have heard "I've never seen that", and "that can't/won't happen", and all I can say is...I hadn't either.
Murphy's Law.....
Good luck.

 

200' lbs is also very easy to achieve, I don't know wth he's talking about.
Wedge a block with oil pan off, or hold the flywheel with it on.
Pull on the torque wrench til it clicks at 200...done

 

So no issue with me just going ahead and retorquing it in place? Should I remove the belt first?

 

No issues torquing it now.
Leave the belt on, as you want All the resistance you can get to help hold it in place.
You won't be able to just put the wrench on and torque it though, you'll just start manually turning the engine before you reach 200.
You'll have to pull the stater or inspection plate and hold the flywheel.
There is such a tool as a flywheel holder too, basically a handle with a flat bar and a 90 degree bend on the end to hook into the teeth.
You can also wedge a bar or screwdriver sometimes.
Just be aware that if you wedge something somewhere to hold the flywheel, that whatever the wedge is against, needs to be strong enough to support 200' lbs of pressure against it.
Have your torque wrench/socket hanging vertically off the crank bolt too. That way, once you have prevented the flywheel from moving(which you'll probably have to keep one hand on), you can reach out with the other and grab the torque wrench(unless you have help, which is always good for those).

 

I believe the bolt head is 24mm.

If you are torquing and oil pan is on (which l'm not sure by reading this), remove rubber plug by starter, it's an access hole for removing torque converter bolts. Take a 19mm socket on an 12 inch extention and insert it into hole after rotating the crank so a hole in the flywheel appears in access hole, this hole in flywheel will where the converter bolt is, slide socket into flywheel hole and rotate crank until it binds against access hole.

You can see access hole in flywheel and head of converter bolt in this picture. You do not want to hold converter bolt, you want to wedge larger socket in access hole.



Extension inserted in hole.



Again, this method works for assembling or removing hamonic balancer...if oil pan is on. If pan is off...use "sixpacks" method.

200 foot pounds is a hand full, but obtainable.

Brian.