Head Bolt Torque Specs
 

I have read 2 options and I was wondering what all of you have decided upon..

The rave saves 15ftlb, 90, then 90, I don't have an angle wrench and fear the marking the bolts then turning them will yield uneven results.

I have a decent torque wrench that I trust and read that people do 15, then 50 - 58 on the long bolts and 68 - 72 on the short bolts

And a thank you in advance for everyone helping me with my first head gasket job.

Take a scratch awl, or sharp object, and scratch a line across bolt head. Then you can see if you have indeed made the required 90 degree progression. Can also paint lines or put tape on the socket. Hard to tell with breaker bar at an angle, hood still on vehicle, etc.

At this point I must mention that my HG job is not going well, as the valley pan alignment is not good. It has been reported that fitting the valley pan gasket and using it to help align heads and valley pan gasket pan before torque of the heads is a good idea.

Ill try to mark it to make the 90 degree turn. I wish there was some torque figures to use. That would be so much easier!

And sorry to hear that man, seeing as how I'm only at 15ftlb I'll fit the valley gasket to ensure it's lined up seeing as how the victor reinz gaskets are a bit thicker.

I would think some masking tape around the socket and you can mark away. Also, my digital 1/2 inch torque wrench is useless on the smaller things, lowest point is 29.5 pounds.

Easier, but wrong. These are basically TTY bolts and to get even clamping the torque angle method must be used.
In the scheme of things, a torque angle gauge isn't very much money added to a head job.
$28 with free shipping.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...ML._SX385_.jpg

What is the big alligator clip for? Just to ground the thing?

Yes. And I can totally reccomend the Lisle angle gauge. I have tried several different ones (all basically the same design principle) and all are flawed in that when you put sideways load on them (un-avoidable when using a breaker bar as apposed to an impact gun) they can drag the needle, which results in you putting more angle than intended on there.

The Lisle is USA made as well - and all steel - and robust as robust can be. The aligator looks wierd, but is actually a lot more useful, steady, and robust than the bent piece of rod that comes with other angle meters too...

Whatever way you install your head bolts always use head bolt thread lub over engine oil, mineral oil or dry for the best consistant settings for all the bolts.

I dont know what type of thread lube you suggest, but you can get a tube of the ARP ultra from O'Reilly for about $8

Well, the bolts were already lubricated with new oil and torqued to 15ftlbs. I started to do the first 90 degrees on the drivers side and I'm almost certain I messed up.