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Head gasket repair
Hello everyone,
my wife killed her disco last night. I have a pretty good leak at the rear head gasket. I am unfortunately leaving on business next Tuesday for about 6 months and wont br able to tackle this job. Does anyone know of good shops in the northern Virginia area? thanks! |
Have not used them, no relationship, have heard good things about Overland 4x4 in Alexandria. Good luck getting that squared away.
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I actually called them today. They quoted about 3600. He was talking about re machining heads and if it's really messed up putting a new motor in. That's just ridiculous to me. I'll just go ahead and buy an old defender!
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Did it overheat or did she shut it off?
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She said it started climbing but she was right down the street from our house so I doubt it got that hot.
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Originally Posted by eskiltell
(Post 650981)
I actually called them today. They quoted about 3600. He was talking about re machining heads and if it's really messed up putting a new motor in. That's just ridiculous to me. I'll just go ahead and buy an old defender!
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$3,600 ain't cheap, no doubt. But that's a legit estimate for that area. If that price shocks you, wait til you see Defender prices.
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I'm probably more aggravated that I wont be able to do the repair myself. There's one other LR shop in the area and a saab shop that I trust to pretty much fix anything. I'll probably check the RAVE and see how long LR says it should take.
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Whynot do it yourself? You mention you leave next Tuesday, but you can start disassembly today for example, order and possibly overnight remanned heads and a head gasket set, and do the job that is necessary. You won't be able to touch trouble areas such as oil pump, timing chain, or injectors, but you'll have a running driving Disco for $1000 even if you buy certain new tools.
Talk to Lucky8 on the phone, I'm sure they'd be happy to help you out. I don't believe the block would have issue if temp just started rising, I've driven with temp pegged for 20 minutes, head gasket blew but nothing else happened. Long story don't ask. I like looking at the road :driving: |
That is a possibility but I also have 3 other vehicles in my fleet that need to be ready for moving in 6 months. Today I have a new waterpump coming in and a new electric fan on the way.
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Alldata time is 9.8 without secondary air, 11.8 with secondary air...
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I have reason to believe it's not the head gasket. On the passenger side of the motor, the drop is coming from somewhere above where the HG mates with the block. The question now is, are there any coolant hoses behind the intake manifold
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the lower intake manifold gasket holds coolant as well....may be lower intake manifold gasket....would have to partially tear down to determine root cause...
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Best case time of teardown? |
just need to remove upper intake plenum, and get a look back there either with mirror, boroscope and see if intake area is leaking...if nothing sticks out, I would assume leaikng from heads.....also to note the heater core lines run above right side head over there...
I did my head gaskets a month ago because when I pulled valve covers to do and found coolant around bolts in left side head... If you had an overheat, or almost overheat....are you basing this off of coolant gauge in cluster? Because if that pegged out you definitely ran hot... You might also be able to just use a colant pressure tester and see if coolant runs out and determine whats leaking... Sorry can't be more help than that without vehicle in front of me.... cheers |
I use the torque app. I just idled up to temp and it held steady at 195 with little drips in the suspected area. When I shut the engine down, a stream of coolant flowed from somewhere above the heads. I used a mirror but it's too tight to look where I want to
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I confirmed visually that it is the back passenger water jacket in the lower intake. Now, I popped off the upper intake but I'm questioning if it is necessary to remove the brackets that hold the alternator and ac pump. Also, do i need to remove the valve covers and how do i depressurize the fuel system.
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Originally Posted by eskiltell
(Post 651051)
I use the torque app. I just idled up to temp and it held steady at 195 with little drips in the suspected area. When I shut the engine down, a stream of coolant flowed from somewhere above the heads. I used a mirror but it's too tight to look where I want to
As far as depressurizing fuel, I would just throw a rag over quick connect when un-doing and it won't splash up...or just let it sitr for an extended period, and fuel pressure shoud be low.....safety glasses as well if you worried... Might as well do valve cover gaskets as well while you are in there...and either replace fuel injectors, or at minumum replace all fuel injector o-rings... Fuel injectors are like $80 a set of re-manned on e-bay. |
Good points. I've found that the only bolts on my truck that are not metric are the valve cover bolts
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Is it necessary to replace the end clamps on the lower intake gasket?
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What end clamps? Picture would be highly appreciated.
Are you talking about the clamps that hold on the valley pan gasket? (edit) I think I got what you mean. The metal portion does not need to be replaced, only the rubber seals that the clamp puts pressure on |
Yes. The valley pan gasket clamps.
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Excellent that's saved about 20 bucks at the parts store
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The valve cover bolts should be 12 point 8mm I believe.
My last head gasket, two weeks ago, cost me less than $500. You dont need to reman pr take your heads to tha machine shop. Check them. |
Well unfortunately time ran out today. I got the new water pump in, everything disconnected and unbolted. Now I have to wait till Friday for the gaskets. I have to say though, the lower manifold bolts were MAYBE alittle more than hand tight, is it safe to maybe use some loctite? |
Originally Posted by eskiltell
(Post 651110)
Well unfortunately time ran out today. I got the new water pump in, everything disconnected and unbolted. Now I have to wait till Friday for the gaskets. I have to say though, the lower manifold bolts were MAYBE alittle more than hand tight, is it safe to maybe use some loctite? |
IIRC lower intake manifold torque is 38 ft lb in a star pattern from middle out. blue medium strength loctite is welcome and basically any bolt except low torque bolts ie aircon compressor, or alternator which I usually put antiseize I mentioned remanded heads as machine shops (at least by me) take st shortest a week to get something done. Remanned heads can be mailed in within a day, with all new guides, and a good flat machines surface. it looks nice as well if you’re one that keeps their Rover looking fresh. |
Well today I'm going to clean up the old girl. Is there anything I should be looking for when I pop off the valve covers? |
Well I suppose the worst would be coolant mixed oil on top of the heads..
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True, good thing this weekend I was going to change the oil!
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Isn't there a baffle in one of the valve covers that needs cleaning if you open it up?
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Originally Posted by Dave03S
(Post 651213)
Isn't there a baffle in one of the valve covers that needs cleaning if you open it up?
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So I took off the intake and there's this black greasy stuff along the walls of the intake and into the engine. I assume the PO never seafoamed!
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Originally Posted by eskiltell
(Post 651261)
So I took off the intake and there's this black greasy stuff along the walls of the intake and into the engine. I assume the PO never seafoamed!
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
(Post 651232)
I disassembled both valve covers and cleaned every piece.
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Unfortunately I dont have a parts washer in my driveway. Unless you mean purple degreaser and a garden hose!
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Probably low grade fuel to cause that sludge.
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I threw mine in the parts washer too...but I still clean every nook.
That black stuff is the coating on the intake gasket. |
No the black INSIDE the air holes
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