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Head gasket replacement and what else?

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  #51  
Old 12-24-2016 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Luckyjayb
Well got a little more done finally. My wife is getting pissed. Go figure.
Looking at the head on your right, Is that (long) bolt located correctly? I think that goes one more hole to the right. Just my observation. Cheers
 
  #52  
Old 12-24-2016 | 01:08 AM
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Probably does. I haven't tried to mount the ac and power steering bracket yet. That's where the head shop put it. I'm ready to get it done though
 
  #53  
Old 12-24-2016 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by LR03NJ
Looking at the head on your right, Is that (long) bolt located correctly? I think that goes one more hole to the right. Just my observation. Cheers
And good looking out

thanks
jason
 
  #54  
Old 12-24-2016 | 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Luckyjayb
Honestly I know victor reinz are better but I went with the lucky 8 kit and can't be disappointed. Everything I have had from them has been top quality and when the ole girl needs new gaskets again, she will be getting a complete rebuild. I did use "interchange"

sealants which I'll post a screen shot picture of. That was compliments of this forum!!! Great looking out guys
And I would go with the arp instruction from d&d on the torquing specs from d&d. Follow the anti seize under the washers to help torque properly. I can't remember who posted this one but another wonder forum member


i ordered the loctite off of eBay and it got there pretty quick. I figured I'd use it since I wasn't in a rush or I would have used the right stuff but that 243 for the oil dipstick tube is a pain to source. Mine was written in german
 
  #55  
Old 12-24-2016 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Luckyjayb
Honestly I know victor reinz are better but I went with the lucky 8 kit and can't be disappointed. Everything I have had from them has been top quality and when the ole girl needs new gaskets again, she will be getting a complete rebuild. I did use "interchange" sealants which I'll post a screen shot picture of.
This import auto parts supplier that caters to the local Euro-repair garages of DFW had the HG on the shelf for $130 so I went for it as mail-carrier/holiday season fiasco and thought I struck gold. They always have anything I need for the LR @ wholesale price so why not? In hindsight Internet purchase would have been the way to go but that's my fault for not asking the sales rep who manuf the gasket kit he had on-hand. In the meantime it had been raining around the clock since Thur night and my engine is beg to rust from the inside-out! I have wiped it down with WD-40 and then coat of motor oil twice per day but that won't even hold it off. It's so humid like the clouds are floating at ground level and completely dismissing my feeble attempts to protect my engine at all costs. On top of this, I went to replace the crank oil seal and turned the engine over to locate my tooling and in the process had the Pistons smother the loose, humidified carbon up/down/all around the bores so now I'm thinking that the Pistons will need to be removed so that I can get all of that crap out. Need suggestions and opinions on this. As for the debris that went directly into the engine via valley, your opinion is that flushing with cheap oil from the top will be sufficient? I was thinking of filling the engine with oil all the way over the lifter galleys and camshaft bearings. Is this OK? I had to remove the lifters already as they were beg to rust but I'm up in arms over this ordeal and hope my questions and concerns are addressed quickly so that I can make a move. I have kept the old head gaskets coated with oil on top of the block and that saved the block deck almost completely except tiny areas it does not cover. None of the rusting has progressed far enough to do damage but it has required a high level of diligence on my part. So what of filling the engine block to the top with oil to prevent rusting? And then the lower part of the bores and the liquified carbon dragged down there? Appreciate your replies.
 
  #56  
Old 12-24-2016 | 09:46 PM
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Damn sounds like your up the creek. Want me to through you a paddle? But I would just wipe it down like you have an get a rag with some pb plaster n wipe it all down. It's just surface rust right now and if all else fails, use a scotchvrite pads. Steel wool will also work but only lightly using it. I went and bought some cheap Walmart shop rags and soaked each one and put it on top of each piston while the heads were off. I think you should be fine doing that. Others might beg to differ but I know you are in a bind right now. I've got all open orifices taped over with painters tape right now to help prevent that while I'm taking my time. I know wd40 has a product at lowes that is supposed to clean surface rust. It's in a bigger can (quart size) and that should helps. For your heads though, I would go ahead and get those set on for the time being with the valve covers and clean your old valley gasket and put it back on and tape the rest of the orifices up the best you can
 
  #57  
Old 12-24-2016 | 09:48 PM
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As for the lifters, clean them the best you can and then make sure they are labeled where you took them out and put them in zip lock bags with oil submerging them.
 
  #58  
Old 12-24-2016 | 09:51 PM
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And I think the debri that went into the engine and made it past the cam had to be small so using a cheaper 15w-40 oil to pour down the heads and valley should capture it and take it to oil pan. And I would also say after you get it all together, do an oil change within a few hundreds miles to get what you couldn't get out of the pan or what might have got caught up. It looked like most of the debri is possibly the coating on the valley gasket, am I correct in that assumption?
 
  #59  
Old 12-24-2016 | 09:53 PM
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As for the cylinder walls, as long as you get it out of the from the bottom of the stroke to the top of the stroke on each cylinder, you should be theoretically fine.
 
  #60  
Old 12-24-2016 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Luckyjayb
And I think the debri that went into the engine and made it past the cam had to be small so using a cheaper 15w-40 oil to pour down the heads and valley should capture it and take it to oil pan. And I would also say after you get it all together, do an oil change within a few hundreds miles to get what you couldn't get out of the pan or what might have got caught up. It looked like most of the debri is possibly the coating on the valley gasket, am I correct in that assumption?
The debris would be the carbon buildup from bottom of cyl-heads and tops of Pistons and some small pieces of antifreeze/oil/dirt particles such as that you would find on the valley gasket. Should have left that damn thing on there; I will know next time huh? Did you take your lifters apart? I have to look into that so I can get all of the rust out of the top. I will need to remove the oil pan at some point, right?
I also thought about putting the parts back on. I'm worried about scratching up the heads but it's still the best option. I won't be able to bolt it down though. There is so much $hitt in the bolt holes and I have no compressed air to clean them out at the moment. What about this, say you?

What are the different sealants and their purpose? I got some RTV silicone and copper coat stuff but nothing fancy. Didn't plan on doing anything other than HG replace but NOW I will consider myself lucky to do everything just short of a complete engine rebuild.
None of the foreign elements which fell into the valley are capable of damaging journal bearings, camshaft bearings, or anything else, right?!
 

Last edited by chubbs878; 12-24-2016 at 10:34 PM.


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