Heating Up Too Quickly?
 

Its been around 30-45 degrees here around the St. Louis area day to day. I've noticed my new '04 heats up very quickly on the temp gauge. Sometimes driving for only 2-3 minutes and its temp gauge reading is right in the middle. (I don't drive it hard or fast at all, I'm passed up by Grannys in their Cadillacs & Lincolns on daily basis:)). When I leave it running if I run into the house quickly, I also notice the temp gauge moves a bit north towards the red but not too much. Also, I noticed she smells of coolant. Should I worry?:confused:

Well, yes. Only because these trucks are prone to overheating if not properly maintained. Actually, it seems like they'll overheat sooner or later no matter what you do.

Check the obvious first: coolant level, check for leaks, maybe time for a thermostat replacement, water pump, fan clutch, belt, etc...

How many miles on the engine, when were both fans checked, when was the last t/stat replaced? Can you follow direction and if so, send me your number and I'll call and walk you thru what do do

Talk to mike this is something he can get you a quick answer to what's wrong. Do not drive it or start it.

618-616-3110 Call or text anytime. Thank you!

Well,,, the D2 uses a gauge that is driven by the ECU to the 50% point for temps between "X" and "Y" degrees F. So it might look fast, but it could be just at "X". A scanner or Ultra Gauge will give you exact readings from the OBDII port.

Now the coolant system can come up really fast if thermostat clogged, or radiator reduced to 50% of effective size by sludge. A clogged radiator can be detected by using an infrared thermometer, point at fins top to bottom. When warmed up, engine off, temp variation should be within 10F. Clogged rows can't pass very much hot water, so they will be cold at the bottom.

There is a 180F soft spring stat that should be in every D2 owner's holiday wish list. The little holes in the top clog up and the stat can't warm up to operate as quickly.

Also can be silly stuff like serpantine belt routed wrong, fan clutch dead (free wheels when warm), electric fan inoperative (siezed, blown fuse, wire backwards).

Smell of coolant bad sign, leak somewhere, and volume of coolant being reduced. Could be external leak thru a hose or clamp, a rented/borrowed pressure tester will tell. Can also be head gaskets. Can also be cracked block. The Grinch is after your holiday.

Savannah, I'm beginning to thing you have 5 photos in a folder somewhere that you use for 80% of your posts :D

A photo is worth a thousand words. If it can save a Rover owner from problems, great. Those who have posted their photos of evils encountered contribute for years after the original post. We all benefit from those who document things, large and small. And sometimes we can use images to demonstrate a point, like dealer expense, fun in the mud, put some duct tape on it, crumple zone, or what I want Santa to bring, the CKD (complete knocked down) Rover in crates - some assembly required.

^love the DI crumple zone photo.

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/ro...-driver-46451/

it has been about a year since Tom and SWMBO walked away from that one.