*sob* Ok, so, had an engine installed in my disco II. Now it won't start. I press the buttons on the key fob, and they're not communicating with the vehicle to lock or unlock the doors. Called the dealership and they want to sell me a 2200 dollar body control module!!! I searched the archives on here and saw where people replaced their BCM's with used ones and a used ECU and only had to have their keys reprogrammed.

1: Is this true?
2: What exactly do I need to do/get?
3: Help!

Elizabeth

 

"ECU BCU and instrument cluster all from the same donor vehicle. Your mileage will be whatever the donor vehicle was. Make sure you get ECU with/without secondary air injection, depending on which you have. I just did mine this afternoon. Disconnected battery cables (set something on hood switch to keep switch depressed), removed ECU BCU and cluster. Installed replacements. Hooked up battery cables. Put key in and turn to position 2 to get the IDM (pass compartment fuse box) to sync to the donor BCU. Leave key in poss 2 for 10 minutes. Then start truck. Should work...I'm trying to figure out how to re sync my key fob to the donor BCU. Might not be possible without proper computer, T4, nanocom etc. See what others says but might want donor key fob as well. Not sure."


Above is from a different thread...keys will need to be re-programmed.


Are you sure you're immobilized? What is happening with the red alarm light on the dash? You could Try just turning the key in the ignition to position 2 for 10 minutes and see if everything re-syncs.


Look up Paul Grant on here for used parts.

 

If you are immobilized...below is the procedure. Your vehicle specific code is on a "Security information Card" usually located with the owners manual.


Read EKA Code (Freelander up to 01, Defender, Discovery)

Under normal circumstances, the only way to disarm the Immobiliser on a Land Rover
vehicle is to use the correct Plip key to unlock the car. If no Plip key is available or
functioning, it is possible to disarm the Immobiliser by using the EKA (Emergency Key
Access) Code. This option will read the EKA Code from the vehicle and display it on the
Multi-Tester Pro screen.
The EKA Code consists of a 4 digit numerical sequence. To use an EKA code to disarm a
vehicle, perform the following sequence:
Insert the key into the drivers door lock and turn to the lock position.
Wait for 5 seconds.
Turn the key to the unlock position the number of times indicated by the first digit of the EKA code.
Turn the key to the lock position the number of times indicated by the second digit of the EKA code.
Turn the key to the unlock position the number of times indicated by the third digit of the EKA code.
Turn the key to the lock position the number of times indicated by the fourth digit of the EKA code.
Turn the key to the unlock position.

If the EKA code is entered correctly, the Alarm LED will stop flashing, and the engine will
start.
If you make an error while entering the EKA code, open and close the driver’s door before
going back to the start of the sequence. If the EKA code is entered unsuccessfully 3 times,
the system will ignore any further attempts for the next 10 minutes.

 

When doing the key in the ignition on position 2, does the driver's side door have to be closed?

Did the 1 5 1 5 thing (NA) and didn't respond.

 

Oh, and the red light is flashing.

 

I didn't have my door closed when doing it...

 

Back to your original post, truck won't "start". Does that mean it will crank but not start, or you turn the key and nothing happens??


Red alarm light can flash at different speeds depending on status of alarm. Try and time the flashes and post back.

 

Did you try closing all the doors and hood, putting the key in the door and locking and unlocking it?

 

See what owning this vehicle has done to my way of thinking...I immediately think of more difficult solutions to a problem.

 

Where you are located?

Someone might have the computer needed to help you. If you TRULY need a BCU, you can install a used one, without anything else, but it will need to be configured and security synced to your car, with nanocom, autologic, faultmate, testbook, etc. And you'll want it to come from a vehicle with LESS miles than you have.

If you don't have anyone nearby with those computers, you could buy your own nanocom cheaper than that $2000 dealer visit, and buy a used BCU for less than $50.

Or as was mentioned before, get a BCU, ECM, Cluster, and remotes all from the same vehicle.