How do you change engine oil?
#11
07-11-2009, 09:41 PM
Did not mean to mislead you, it was purely an example, if the car takes 6 then add 5 to 5/12 MAX at first, then follow the other steps.
You dont really want to add the max capacity at the first fill BEFORE running it as the oil filter will need filling up etc etc and you wont get a true level,
its better to under fill first, run the engine and top up to max, rather than overfill..
You dont really want to add the max capacity at the first fill BEFORE running it as the oil filter will need filling up etc etc and you wont get a true level,
its better to under fill first, run the engine and top up to max, rather than overfill..
Two other items, before replacing the drain plug, remove the oil ring and put it back on the drain plug upside down so it won't leak. Also before installing the filter oil the seal then fill the filter with as much oil as you can before reinstalling it so you won't start the engine with a dry start.
When you fill the oil filter with oil.. realize that the oil you put in the filter is part of the total sum of oil you should be putting in the system... Fill the oil filter about 3/4 full, that way you can tilt it over to thread it back on without spilling oil all over the place.
Make sure the old O-Ring comes off with the old oil filter.
Place some used engine oil on the O-Ring of the New Oil Filter.. this will help it to seat properly.
Tighten new oil filter as tight as you can get it with your Bare Hands.. Do Not use a wrench of any kind, you will have a hell of a time getting it off next time.
Make sure the old O-Ring comes off with the old oil filter.
Place some used engine oil on the O-Ring of the New Oil Filter.. this will help it to seat properly.
Tighten new oil filter as tight as you can get it with your Bare Hands.. Do Not use a wrench of any kind, you will have a hell of a time getting it off next time.
#12
07-12-2009, 08:48 AM
#13
07-12-2009, 08:53 AM
Winching
#15
07-12-2009, 09:14 AM
I used an old leather belt with a little rubber cement brushed on the inside (not really necessary). Wrap it around the oil filter, put the end of the belt through the buckle and pull tight. You should be able to get the oil filter off and you won't over torque it when you put it back on.
I have since bought a proper strap wrench but the belt is good to keep in mind if you are in a jam.
I have since bought a proper strap wrench but the belt is good to keep in mind if you are in a jam.
#16
07-12-2009, 10:16 AM
Okay, so I've rebuilt the list:
1: remove sump plug and drain the oil.
2: turn over the copper washer/oil ring, and re-insert the sump plug
3: remove the old oil filter, you might need an oil filter wrench or special channel locks. make sure the old o-ring comes off.
4: fill the new oil filter 3/4 of the way with oil, rub oil on the filter gasket, and replace the oil filter. hand tighten, do not use a wrench.
5: fill engine with approx 90% capacity of oil. For example, if it takes 8 quarts, put in at least 7 quarts. Remember to include the oil poured into the filter when counting the amount of oil you've put back in.
6: start the engine and hold at a fast idle (1500RPM) for 20 secs (fills new oil filter)
7: allow engine to idle at regular RPM for another 30 secs
8: turn off engine
9: wait atleast 2 - 3 mins, THEN check oil level on dipstick, if more required top up to full mark allowing at least 10-20 secs for each bit you add to drain into the sump, when the level is correct
10: replace oil cap and dipstick, job done!
1: remove sump plug and drain the oil.
2: turn over the copper washer/oil ring, and re-insert the sump plug
3: remove the old oil filter, you might need an oil filter wrench or special channel locks. make sure the old o-ring comes off.
4: fill the new oil filter 3/4 of the way with oil, rub oil on the filter gasket, and replace the oil filter. hand tighten, do not use a wrench.
5: fill engine with approx 90% capacity of oil. For example, if it takes 8 quarts, put in at least 7 quarts. Remember to include the oil poured into the filter when counting the amount of oil you've put back in.
6: start the engine and hold at a fast idle (1500RPM) for 20 secs (fills new oil filter)
7: allow engine to idle at regular RPM for another 30 secs
8: turn off engine
9: wait atleast 2 - 3 mins, THEN check oil level on dipstick, if more required top up to full mark allowing at least 10-20 secs for each bit you add to drain into the sump, when the level is correct
10: replace oil cap and dipstick, job done!
#17
07-12-2009, 11:29 AM
#18
07-12-2009, 11:47 AM
Winching
#19
07-12-2009, 11:47 AM
Winching
I'm not sure if the 2004 is different from the 2003 but on my '03 Disco there is a plastic panel under the engine with a small removable round plate that you must remove to take out the oil filter and to reinstall one. You just twist it with the finger holes and it comes out. The issue come in when you use the longer 3001 K&N filter because that panel will keep you from using the filter as the panel is too close to the oil filter area. You can remove the panel and ditch it, which some people have suggested. I chose to mark where the filter needed to be, removed the panel and using an electric jig saw cut a hole in the panel so the oil filter can extend pass it and then reinstalled the panel.
Be forewarned that no matter how hard you try to be neat and tidy, some of that nasty old oil will spill on you as you maneuver the filter through that hole in the panel under the engine. I wear rubber gloves and use one of those big oil reservoirs to catch the oil and I still get some on me or the driveway and have plenty of rags handy. Just be glad it isn't a diesel as that oil looks like coal tar and is damn hard to wash off!
Be forewarned that no matter how hard you try to be neat and tidy, some of that nasty old oil will spill on you as you maneuver the filter through that hole in the panel under the engine. I wear rubber gloves and use one of those big oil reservoirs to catch the oil and I still get some on me or the driveway and have plenty of rags handy. Just be glad it isn't a diesel as that oil looks like coal tar and is damn hard to wash off!
#20
07-12-2009, 01:12 PM
Winching
Join Date: Apr 2008
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WTF. Put in 6 quarts at least. =
Oil isn't being held anywhere in the engine. It is all in the sump/filter. You drained that out. There is Maybe 1/2-3/4 qt of oil in the engine after you drain it. The whole point of draining hot/warm oil is to get all of it out.
From RAVE
Engine - V8 with oil cooler:
⇒ Engine oil and filter change 6.6 qt
⇒ Engine oil refill from dry 7.4 qt
Engine - V8 without oil cooler:
⇒ Engine oil and filter change 6.1 qt
⇒ Engine oil refill from dry 6.9 qt
You are going to blow or severely shorten the life of the engine only putting in 5 quarts. Are you using a larger oil filter? a M1-301 or K&N 3001? If so then put 6.3-6.5 quarts in!
Oil isn't being held anywhere in the engine. It is all in the sump/filter. You drained that out. There is Maybe 1/2-3/4 qt of oil in the engine after you drain it. The whole point of draining hot/warm oil is to get all of it out.
From RAVE
Engine - V8 with oil cooler:
⇒ Engine oil and filter change 6.6 qt
⇒ Engine oil refill from dry 7.4 qt
Engine - V8 without oil cooler:
⇒ Engine oil and filter change 6.1 qt
⇒ Engine oil refill from dry 6.9 qt
You are going to blow or severely shorten the life of the engine only putting in 5 quarts. Are you using a larger oil filter? a M1-301 or K&N 3001? If so then put 6.3-6.5 quarts in!
Last edited by Jupiter Rover; 07-12-2009 at 03:00 PM.