Previous storyline.......head gasket job started.
So I get my new bolts, put all in drivers side head
and the last one spins freely. Check old bolts out and
all are larger size bolts than the 10.9 stretch.
So now I am like, how do I torque? Different head gaskets?
Move onto passenger side, this head never removed prior, feeling
good about this side. Cut and dry, the 3 long head bolts stripped
out the block threads before much torquing. All the shorts were good.
My ***** are really hurting from all the kicks now, I shut the hood and walked.
Can I just fix the 3 bad holes? or do all need doing?
I have exceeded my 30 days hope, and looks to be going over budget now too. WHAAAA!
Still wonder what my chevelle would be like with this 3500 sunk into it.
Anyone wanna buy it for 3 bills? Nah, not for sale yet. I got one or two more trys in me.

 

I am trying to figure out what you did here. The bolts were a different size? You stripped out 4 total? Are you sure you had the correct torque specs?
So I take it you have 4 holes that won't take a bolt, right? With soft metal, you should be able to tap new threads with an easy kit, but I am not familiar with this on LR heads. Best to ask around. I'm sure a machine shop can do it for you too.

 

I'll give you 500 bucks for it...

Other than that.

Your screwed

 

helicoil the block, thats your only answer.

 

It looks like whoever did the drivers head in the past encountered
issues with the threads, and resized all the bolt holes in the block.

Looks like I will have to do the same.

I never even got to really torque the bolts, one went with the 15lb
turn, and the other two went on the first 90* twist. I read it is
a fairly common issue on overheated AL blocks. So obviously this motor
was overheated badly prior to me purchasing it.

So with the helicoil, does it require different head gaskets?
Or can I still use the factory stretch bolts?

 

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This is way better than helicoil. Also, I would use ARP studs instead of the stretch bolts as these are less likely to damage the repaired threads. The only thing to check - is if what you have remaining, will take a timesert (or helicoil)... The Timesert does have a larger major diamater on the outer thread, so has more chance of working than the helicoil.

 

Explain in detail - are the bolts longer, or a different thread pitch, or larger major thread diameter, or what???

Also, take a look inside the threaded hole - is the thread bad all the way down?

 

those are wonderful the only problem is they are flanged on the top, which means you need a two step hole so unless to plan on pulling the block and sending it off the a machine shop your stuck with plan old fashioned Helicoils.
And if you are going to pull the block just replace it, its already been jury rigged once.

 

Well, yes, they are flanged on top. That is part of the design, and one of the many reasons why the design is superior to helicoil. They also come in different lengths, and unlike helicoils are just as easy to install in the longer length versions as the shorter ones.

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The bolts that were used as replacements, prior to my ownership of this anchor, were a larger size, diameter, than the factory bolts. Length of them seemed close to the factory ones. Not sure if the threads were the same cut as factory, but I believe so as all the factory bolts screwed in like they should have. But if I had torqued them, they would have stripped every thread.
But it appears I now have a direction to head with this. Suppose I should pull the motor out to gain access for drilling and tapping, shame this vette motor I got will not bolt in, doubt the truck could take 450 horses tho.