Typically a slow to engage trans means a clogged filter, if that does not cure it then the next thing to check would be a sticky valve and then would be worn out clutches.

Since you changed the fluid recently but not the filter then either the filter clogged when stuff broke loose or the clutches are slipping.

I wish it was not such a PIA to change the trans filter on a DI.

 

I will try the filter approach and report. I noticed that someone had recently posted that they did not have to remove the Y-Pipe to change the filter. They simply removed the bolts to the cross-member and spread the framerails and the crossmember dropped, others have moved it forward. They were then able to loosen the tranny pan and wiggle it free. Some have had issues with a connecting pipe, looks like it is some sort support that connects to the front of the tranny pan and then up to the frame. The slippery slope.......Thanks for the info. I will keep the group posted. Phil

 

You have 2 pipes, one going to the trans cooler the other is the return.
Then you also have the dipstick tube.
Just make sure you remove the one pipe nut before you try and remove the pan.
It is a big nut, you will need a big crescent wrench or a open wrench.

 

Maybe that 97 tranny for 600 would be a good deal after all. Does that include trading in your "bad" tranny or do you get to keep it? If you do get to keep it, then you could look into rebuilding it.

Another alternative that you may not have considered< i recently saw an article in our local newspaper regarding the local vocational school here. They have an automotive technician program and they were letting the local residents know that you could have them perform repairs on your vehicle for the cost of parts and materials only. No labor is charged and the instructors supervise the students doing the repairs. I have some left over new Ford parts I was going to donate to them and may have them do some of my rust repairs in their body shop program.

 

Wow, don't I feel like a dip. The tranny on my DI does have some issues. Hopefully they will be resolved with a filter change. Ordered a new one from AB, hopefully will be here by Saturday. It looks like I will not need a new tranny however, at least not for the reasons I thought. It turns out that the noise, reving-like issues were actually coming from a seized fan clutch. A combo of the tranny issues and the noise of the fan clutch gave the impression of a slipping tranny. Whew, I am glad I didn't rush out the tranny. Now I only hope that the inoperable tranny issues when cold will go away with the filter change. thanks for all of the ideas and pointers. Phil

 

Can you hear the sound of taps, it is official, my DI transmission is dead. I spent the afternoon removing the crossmember, the y-pipe and the tranny pan. The fluid was relatively clean but the bottom of the pan was dirty as all get out. The magnet was covered with hair. No chunks of metal or foreign matter. After I put it all back together and put in 4 quarts of ATF, started her up and ..........nothing. The pump just isn't pulling the fluid through the tranny. Checking the dip stick it shows 3 or 4 quarts too much but I only put 4 quarts in. Dang, it actually started working somewhat before I started the project. I guess that I will bite the bullet and put in the used tranny that I found. 77k miles, new fluid, new filter new seals and new rear main and cross seals for $900 installed. Well, chalk one up for experience. I probably should have changed the filter earlier and may have saved my transmission. I actually had it a California Rover a couple of months ago to do the change and the overbooked and couldn't fit me in.

Thanks for all of the ideas on this one. I may just pull the filter I just put in and use it in the new one, heaven knows no fluid passed through it.

Phil

1999 DI 105k ready for a new tranny
2000 DII 128k ready for a new radiator
2001 DII 80k miles ready for a wash

 

One more update on the DI tranny. I went out today, after letting the tranny sit overnight. Started up shifted through the gears, nothing. Sat in the truck for a couple of minutes and tried again, life in reverse, life in 1st, my wife, who was sharing the excitement with me, not, told me not to drive it, it would fail. Sure enough, when I shifted back into reverse, nothing. I am assuming that I have some sort of electrical or mechanical glitch. My thought is that the pump is shot and just to spite me comes on from time to time. My next post on this thread will be driving back from the shop with the new/used tranny installed and running sweet. Phil

1999 DI 105k

 

The DI tranny has no electrics.
So it cant be a electrical issue.

This is not meant towards you, but to any one reading this now or in the future you MUST change your trans filter every 60,000 miles no matter who says what.
If you dont know when it was changed then assume it was never changed.
It is cheap to do and can save you a ton of money later on.
This is true for any car or truck that has a trans filter.

 

Well, I picked up the DI from the shop that installed the new/used transmission (77k miles on her). It seems to run/shift well. I need to adjust the kickdown cable but other than that and a little bit of a strong nudge when shifting into reverse, I think that I am in business.

Wow, just had a pretty good earthquake. The building is still shifting around. A 5.9 magnitude in the Anza Borrego area.

The shop did mess a couple of things up, they broke a tab off of the driver's side seat switch plate cover and a screw that hold the center console down. Other than that I am pleased. In exchange for those issues the guy gave me a grill in pristine condition. Mine had developed a crack at the top.

Thanks for all of the support and comments. Glad to have this issue resolved. Now on to getting the head gaskets done on the 2000.....

All the best.

Phil

1999 DI 105k miles
2000 DII 128k miles
2001 83k miles

 

What was the total bill on this?
Price of trans and price of install?
How long did it take for them to install it?