Hi All,

I searched, but am apparently using the wrong keywords, and don't find what I'm looking for.

We picked up a (white) 01 Disco for my son - it came with only one working ignition key. I'd prefer he had a spare, and ideally both with working remotes. I see that there are services where I can get a key adn a programmer from the UK, but I wonder if I might have the things I need to do a swap.

I just (yesterday) picked up another (green) 01 Disco with a blown engine for parts. This one came with two keys.

The question is: can I swap the ignition from the green vehicle to the white vehicle, and if so, what needs to be moved over?

I don't need instructions for how to remove and reinstall the ignition portion, I found posts and videos for that, and am confident that I can do that work.

I've seen sets on the big online auction that show the ignition assembly, the driver's door handle and a key (or two). I assume this allows you to keep the same key for the door and ignition.

Is there anything else other than the ignition, keys and driver door lock that would need to be transplanted - a remote lock ECU, immobilizer/security module, or anything like that?

My alternatives in order of increasing cost are to send away for a key from remote key in the UK, and buy a Nanocom* to reprogram one of the keys to match the white rig. From reading here, the Hawkeye doesn't work for reprograming used keys.

*I know I should get a Nanocom anyway to have for future diagnostic purposes, but they're more money than I can justify at the moment.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Is there someone near you with a Nanocom that can help you program the codes? I don’t think you’ll regret buying one in the end.

 

I don't know anyone personally that has a Nanocom, we haven't really been a part of the Rover scene yet. I'm near Burlington, Vermont, USA if anyone is nearby.

I'll probably break down and buy the Nanocom eventually. I have the dongles/readers from a bunch of other brands from previous projects, but of course, they are always make specific. It always pains me to buy these scanners, but they do pay for themselves quickly.

Is there a directory of some sort - when I was in the BMWCCA (motorcycle) club there was a directory with enthusiasts willing to lend a hand for most any place you'd find yourself. I'd be happy to add myself if there is such a thing.

 

There's no need to move the ignition switch from the parts truck to the white truck.

First, can you take the one key you have for the white truck and get two or three duplicates made. That way you at least have backups until you get the keyless remotes working with the white truck. The ILCO key number is RV4, or RV4-P for a little nicer key with a plastic head. Your local hardware store may have the RV4 hanging on the key rack.

Next, you can buy two new shells for the keyless remotes off the big online auction site. Shells like the one I bought come with an uncut key shank. You can use those key shanks in the existing shells, or swap the innards from the keyless remotes to the new shells, then program the white truck's BCU to recognize a keyless remote using an Nanocom or other device.

The Nanocom is really the only choice for a DIY DII owner wanting to synch keyless remotes. You may be able to find a Rover shop somewhere near you that has an Autocom with software for the DII. It's a much fancier, much more expensive professional tool, but it wouldn't take them more than 10 minutes to sync your new keyless entry fobs to the white truck's BCU.

The remotekey option from the UK is also good, but for what you would spend on two keys from them you are well on your way to paying for a Nanocom.

 

Thank you for the information!

There isn't any sort of immobilizer device in the key fob itself? I have owned other brands where the fob had matched up with some wizardry in a security ECU. On one it was a grain of rice sized "pill" that had to be near the ignition for the car to start. Is this fob only for remote locking/unlocking not immobilizing?

We have a couple of the rebuild kits (shell, spare switches, blank key) from ebay - we fixed the original fob electronics (soldered on a switch) and moved the key bit over from the solo fob on the white one. We have one more key rebuild kit that I could have the key portion cut and move one of the electronic boards over to the fob part for programming when eventually I find/buy a Nanocom.

Am I getting it that, as long as the metal key part is cut correctly, that key would open the driver door and start the car even without the electronic portion of it programmed?

 

There is no immobilizer in key itself. The alarm / security system is entirely activated by the key fob, or the drivers door locking mechanism (if it's programmed that way).

So if you have a lockset (drivers door & ignition cylinder & 2 keys) -- you can swap it into your D2, and then use Nanocom to code to your D2. And wala!

You can use a plain ole cut key (some makers like Ilco I believe make them aftermarket) to start a D2 (without any electronics) as long as the alarm is not activated.

 

A completely mechanical key in the driver's door will deactivate/activate the alarm as well as start the truck. As vegas says, the only electronics in the keys are for the alarm remote.

Off topic.... "wala"???

 

The ILCO RV4 key is a plain metal key with no RFID chip in it. It's no more complicated than the key to your dad's or granddad's '66 Galaxy 500. You can lock and unlock the truck with an RV4 (or RV4-P) key from here to eternity and never use the keyless remote. And, the plain metal key DOES activate and deactivate the alarm.

That said, I like to have both the plain key and the keyless remote working. One well-known failure point is the door lock pin that can break and leave the door lock inoperable. The "pin" is a short rod that connects the door lock cylinder to the door lock actuator. It's made of cheap "pot metal", and if it breaks, the door lock cylinder just spins 360° when the key is inserted and turned. I crafted a replacement from a 20d nail when this happened in my truck 13 years ago, but a forum member now sells a heavy duty replacement.

I've also come up with a third way to unlock the truck that doesn't require a key or a keyless remote. I plan to post about that method soon.

 

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate it.

I learned a lot of useful information that I couldn't find anywhere else.

We picked up the machined stainless rod piece the replaces the pot metal pin/linkage/arm in the stock drivers door handle. I picked that tip up here on the forum too!

Have a great day everyone.

 

Swapping the ignition from the green vehicle to the white vehicle should work, as long as the green vehicle has the same type of key and immobilizer as the white vehicle. However, there may be other components that need to be swapped as well, such as the immobilizer/security module, depending on the specific vehicles and their features.

It's always a good idea to have a spare key for your vehicle, and if you're not comfortable with doing the swap yourself, you could take both vehicles to<!--td {border: 1px solid #cccccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Ealing locksmith or dealership to have the ignition and keys swapped over. They would also be able to tell you if any additional components need to be transferred.

Alternatively, if you're looking for a less expensive option, you could try purchasing a key and programmer from a reputable seller online and programming the key yourself using instructions provided by the seller or found online. However, be sure to research the seller and make sure they have a good reputation before purchasing.