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I'm thinking about getting a code scanner...

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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 12:05 AM
  #1  
tornado_735's Avatar
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Default I'm thinking about getting a code scanner...

So I'm looking on eBay, and I'm seeing all kinds of cheap PC interface ODB-II scanners. Real cheap, I'm talking less than $4.00. But the shipping is $25. The price makes me suspicious, but the list of all the features makes me curious:

Features:
The program lets you perform the following operations:

Read diagnostic trouble codes, both generic and manufacturer-specific, and display their meaning (over 3000 generic code definitions in the database).
Clear trouble codes and turn off the MIL ("Check Engine" light)

Display current sensor data, including:
• Engine RPM
• Calculated Load Value
• Coolant Temperature
• Fuel System Status
• Vehicle Speed
• Short Term Fuel Trim
• Long Term Fuel Trim
• Intake Manifold Pressure
• Timing Advance
• Intake Air Temperature
• Air Flow Rate
• Absolute Throttle Position
• Oxygen sensor voltages/associated short term fuel trims
• Fuel System status
• Fuel Pressure

So this looks too good to be true right? I also can buy a regular ODB-II scanner for $50.00, but I can't monitor all of the above things. Feedback on the seller is pretty good, so what do you guys think?

Here is the link:
http://tinyurl.com/ODBII-Scanner

It'd be shipped from Hong Kong.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 01:14 AM
  #2  
heromanLSU's Avatar
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I got one from Autozone for $40 and i dont have to plug it into a computer or worry about it being a fraud. but if you google it you should find some other forums where people bought a similar code reader and said they work fine.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 09:09 AM
  #3  
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If you want all that without the laptop...get a scangauge... i recommend it... and the Discovery can't tell you everything on that list either...like Intake Manifold pressure.

Plus the scangauge can teach you to save gas by monitoring real time mpg, cost per mile, cost per trip....a bunch more and you can easily use it on other cars you may have...

But a generic reader wont tell you ABS and SRS(air bag) related codes...
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 09:30 AM
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Item location Hong Kong...no way in hell would I buy it.
Get the ScanGauge, I'm saving my money to buy one.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 12:03 PM
  #5  
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Honestly guys, I am thinking about selling and starting over with a DI...

I am also beginning to suspect the ECM...
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:15 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by tornado_735
Honestly guys, I am thinking about selling and starting over with a DI...

I am also beginning to suspect the ECM...
DI's are alot less troublesome...
So the mis fire is still there?
#8 cylinder?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:38 PM
  #7  
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Well Spike, I made a boneheaded move today.

I went to Auto Zone to have the codes read, and there were a crap load of them. Every single cylinder had codes for injector faults, a few off the wall codes again, and still a misfire code on the #8 cylinder (as well as the number 5 cylinder).

Just now I came to the realization that I did not clear the codes prior to ripping it apart. When I had it apart, I had unplugged every single injector. Then I had turned the key on trying to check a few things while the injectors were still unplugged. Hence, why I had so many codes.

Round to still to come...


Still suspecting a bad ECM as well...
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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If it walks like a duck, quacks like a duck, it is probably a DUCK.
Don't waste your money.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 04:15 PM
  #9  
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A ECU would be cheaper than a new truck.
www.roverlandparts.com
Clear the codes and then see what ones come back.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #10  
Disco Mike's Avatar
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Originally Posted by tornado_735
Well Spike, I made a boneheaded move today.

I went to Auto Zone to have the codes read, and there were a crap load of them. Every single cylinder had codes for injector faults, a few off the wall codes again, and still a misfire code on the #8 cylinder (as well as the number 5 cylinder).

Just now I came to the realization that I did not clear the codes prior to ripping it apart. When I had it apart, I had unplugged every single injector. Then I had turned the key on trying to check a few things while the injectors were still unplugged. Hence, why I had so many codes.

Round to still to come...


Still suspecting a bad ECM as well...
So, what were the exact faults by number?
 
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