Hey, All!

Long time listener, first time caller...

My FOB took a dive while I was repairing a microswitch yesterday. It lights up and everything (fresh batteries, etc) but nothing happens in the car-- either the circuits are fried or it got unsynced. Sadly, physical memory led me to lock the car with the key and BOOM! Now the immobilizer is enabled.

I've spent the last day reading and re-reading every version of using the EKA code... Start off turning to LOCK 4x, start by holding on UNLOCK for 5 seconds... Can't get any sort of visible or audible signal from the car it understands I'm trying to enter the code. I've now called six (SIX!) LR dealerships in the area to ask about initializing the EKA mode, and of the two that answered: 1. said the DII doesn't use EKA codes (hokay), and 2. says his remobilizes when he puts the correct key in the ignition (I tried this while he was on the phone just to show him it wasn't the case... still stood by his claim). I've tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting while key is in position II, I've also just tried hitting the center console's LOCK/UNLOCK function three times... all sorts of hacks users have said have worked.

No LR dealers agree about giving codes out over the phone, and since the extensive documentation I have for my car has no record of the EKA, I can only assume it's still the default 1515. But it's hard to know if the car is evening accepting the key turns as a code without any feedback!

Door locks and everything work GREAT! No problems before I decided to repair the microswitch so it's GOT to be the FOB board. I brought someone out to program a new key for me but he was locked out of the computer because of the immobilizer (he was using an OtoSys1M600, I believe?). Next step is towing to LR dealer, who could hypothetically reset the computer and remobilize the system.

What's the real trick for getting this EKA thing to work? Or am I about to shell out serious cash for a lockout tow?

 

1515 usually works unless the PO changed the EKA code.
Find someone with OBDII diagnostic tester to "see" what the exact EKA code is from the BCU. Preferably a Nanocom or a Foxwell NT510, NT520 Pro tester can definitely do this.

 

Woof, yeah had someone in town who had one who could hypothetically read it, but he wasn’t responding/available for at least a couple days. You’d be amazed at the looks you get when you tow a DII into LR of Albany... yikes, some of the coldest reception I’ve ever gotten! They’re opting to charge me for a diagnostic (though we’re both clear on what’s going on and what needs to happen) because they’ve got to charge for something, amiright?

With the cost of the tow & the expensive 10-min computer rental, I’m unable to pay *their* rate of programming the new FOB I brought with me. I’d like to have my local guy do it ($60!). I assume I can just leave this puppy unlocked and not arm it to avoid the immobilizer until I can get the new key going? Or does the key need to stay in proximity of the car to avoid an auto-enable?

 

Still sitting at the dealership (2 hours and counting) and now they say they haven’t had any progress communicating with the car’s computer. Says it’s locking them out. Which is the whole reason I got towed to LR, since everyone has said they’re the only ones with the capability... They want to charge an additional $150 for another hour of testing, but this is ridiculous! The car was FINE, it was the FOB that was damaged... so a reset of the immobilizer should kick her back into gear, right?