Jumping off the Rotella band wagon!
#11
06-21-2017 | 09:08 PM
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No arguments on the oil change intervals, but I will argue that according to this man's data (granted it seems to be unchallenged as of yet) some oil additive packages are more resistant to high temperatures. There's also a difference between water and oil temp and they don't always correlate. Many modern engines are extremely happy over 210 degrees water temp but maintain oil Temps under 230 via efficient oil cooler systems.
As far as fuel dilution, that is solved by the oil change intervals, which I would argue are an average of 3-5k most gear heads
As far as fuel dilution, that is solved by the oil change intervals, which I would argue are an average of 3-5k most gear heads
#12
06-21-2017 | 09:28 PM
Any product or Looney tunes liberal cause can get a bunch of "scientists" to write a paper on anything
I am going to point at global warming now
https://youtu.be/tivRM1lQUKU
My apologies to anyone in california
I am going to point at global warming now
https://youtu.be/tivRM1lQUKU
My apologies to anyone in california
Idiots aside, amsoil made my D2 far smoother than Rotella, it's cheap oil that people trick themselves into thinking is good for the truck.
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dr. mordo (06-27-2017)
#14
06-21-2017 | 09:51 PM
Yep very familiar with multi viscosity oil's and I'm also familiar with what weight range works in what climate. 0w40 is not going to be ideal for my climate there for as I said earlier it has no business near my LR's (LR3 included). Now of coarse if I was in a cooler climate 0w40 would the ideal choice. In SETX with 100% humidity 20w50 would actually work during the summer months, but I've found 15w40 to be the perfect balance down here on my older Buick 215 based V8 LR's.
#15
06-21-2017 | 10:00 PM
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Best 4x4, I disagree on your point of appropriate climate. Given that not a single oil on the market is capable of flowing enough in a cold engine to produce adequate protection in any climate on earth, it would behoove everyone to attempt to obtain the thinnest viscosity possible at ambient Temps. A 0 weight oil at 100 degrees is still molasses in regards to bearing protection. A 15 weight might as well be liquid concrete for the 3-5 minutes of warmup.
There's another very good article written in the Ferrari community that I'm trying to find currently, it's another very good read.
There's another very good article written in the Ferrari community that I'm trying to find currently, it's another very good read.
Last edited by KingKoopa; 06-21-2017 at 10:04 PM.
#17
06-21-2017 | 10:36 PM
I highly disagree about 15w40 flowing like liquid concrete. That would be 80w90 or 85w140 oil. Also I was using the oil chart in the owners manual as my climate example, but I'll ignore that and just use 15w40 in my TC and diff's from now on. Bet I'll be up in the 35-50MPG range lol.
We can kick a dead horse all day long, but in the end I could use freaking Wal-Mart oil honestly. I change my LR's (LR3 not included) every 3k so the $$$ Full Synthetic oils that go 5k, 10k, 15k, or the Mobil1 one year stuff is not going to work for me.
My 02 has 229k on the original engine. Previous owner used 10w40 and I went to 15w40. Runs better than my 03 did off the showroom floor. Here in TX I'd truly love to see someone try a 0w40 weight oil. Pretty sure that LR would be joining it's buddies on CL with dead engines very quickly.
Also if it's any consulation all the TX LR Dealers used Castrol 20w50 oil on RRC/D90/D110/D1/D2/P38's. They would use 10w40 if the customer requested it special, but 20w50 was the standard weight for years until the BMW 4.4 & Jag 4.4 V8's showed up.
Last edited by Best4x4; 06-21-2017 at 11:05 PM.
#18
06-21-2017 | 11:22 PM
Mudding
Joined: Jul 2016
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ladies and gentlemen, ive decided to jump off the Rotella band wagon, despite being a big proponent for going on 10 years now....
In another post, someone linked a blog written by a mechanical engineer, describing in depth the science of engine oil and the wear protection (among other specs) of many common oils available to the public.
After reading, in its entirety, this mans "oil bible", and doing some research of my own on some of his higher ranking oils, ive come to the conclusion that Rotella diesel oil is no longer the best option for engines in general, but solid tappet engines as well.
furthermore, i believe that my 2004 Disco (which does not have an oil cooler yet), experiences momentary oil temps that exceed the coverage of Rotella's additive package. leading to rapid oil degradation and subsequent valve train issues, including the dreaded "rover tick".... which everyone knows sounds more like a "rover WTF!?? DONKEY KONG IS GOING BERZERK INSIDE MY CRANK CASE!"
As an experiment, ive decided to use one of this man's higher ranked oils (Mobil 1 "FS" european formula in 0w40), with a bottle of rislone for 200 miles or so. Will report further as i put some miles on.
obviously the topic of oil is a gnarly can of worms. BUT, i invite a technical discussion on the issue IF everyone is willing to cite any sources used and not "well ive used this forever" or "but the guys at my rover shop know best"
In another post, someone linked a blog written by a mechanical engineer, describing in depth the science of engine oil and the wear protection (among other specs) of many common oils available to the public.
After reading, in its entirety, this mans "oil bible", and doing some research of my own on some of his higher ranking oils, ive come to the conclusion that Rotella diesel oil is no longer the best option for engines in general, but solid tappet engines as well.
furthermore, i believe that my 2004 Disco (which does not have an oil cooler yet), experiences momentary oil temps that exceed the coverage of Rotella's additive package. leading to rapid oil degradation and subsequent valve train issues, including the dreaded "rover tick".... which everyone knows sounds more like a "rover WTF!?? DONKEY KONG IS GOING BERZERK INSIDE MY CRANK CASE!"
As an experiment, ive decided to use one of this man's higher ranked oils (Mobil 1 "FS" european formula in 0w40), with a bottle of rislone for 200 miles or so. Will report further as i put some miles on.
obviously the topic of oil is a gnarly can of worms. BUT, i invite a technical discussion on the issue IF everyone is willing to cite any sources used and not "well ive used this forever" or "but the guys at my rover shop know best"
#19
06-21-2017 | 11:24 PM
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for the record, my engine is pushing 220,000 miles. I have no idea what oil was used prior to 20,000 miles ago, but I do know that this sucker clacks like an AR if I don't keep it happy.
I dont think you would disagree with my liquid concrete assertion if you saw the viscosity difference of ambient temp 15 weight and running temp 40 weight. Seriously, go get a bottle of strait 15 and strait 40. Heat the 40 on the stove up to 212 and leave the 15 at ambient temp. Poor them into another container and witness how water-like the 40 weight is compared to the 15.
Also, oil tech has changed in 30 years, 5 years in fact. I dont deny that the average engine that has a perfectly operating cooling system and never revs over 5k rpm will probably never have an issue with average oil quality and 3-5k service intervals. But If I've learned anything after riding sport bikes for years, it's that average is unlikely, and extreme is more fun.
I dont think you would disagree with my liquid concrete assertion if you saw the viscosity difference of ambient temp 15 weight and running temp 40 weight. Seriously, go get a bottle of strait 15 and strait 40. Heat the 40 on the stove up to 212 and leave the 15 at ambient temp. Poor them into another container and witness how water-like the 40 weight is compared to the 15.
Also, oil tech has changed in 30 years, 5 years in fact. I dont deny that the average engine that has a perfectly operating cooling system and never revs over 5k rpm will probably never have an issue with average oil quality and 3-5k service intervals. But If I've learned anything after riding sport bikes for years, it's that average is unlikely, and extreme is more fun.
#20
06-21-2017 | 11:27 PM
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I was intrigued by the seal swell as well, but after further research I would caution against it. Petroleum based seals will swell but become gelatin. They will grow in size and stop leaks for awhile, but the first time that they sit for a couple days without being soaked in oil, they will disintegrate and leak worse than ever. Better to solve the problem and fix the old seals, then run regular oil.