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Oh yay. I was actually planning on swapping it myself but I had a camping trip coming up (that got snowed out) and figured a shop by my work that has great reviews would handle it much better. Live and learn I guess.
I got the kit that has everything except bearings for $20. Call and ask he if he will make up a kit that includes the bearings. Either way you can get the reseal kit and bearings separately and still be well under $100
There is a great thread on transfer case reseal here and then some great instructional videos on YouTube; Land Rover Toolbox by Bearmach or something like that. It's a step-by-step tutorial on replacing the bearings and everything.
Did he install the CDL? If you bought the D1 shifter that may be the reason it took him so long. Should have youtubed how to do it, but lining up the linkage is still a time-consuming pain.
Which is one reason why I recommend doing the cable shift instead.
That's a lot of shavings, but I had some gunk on my plug also. How many miles were on the aftermarket T-case?
I wouldn't let the magnetic plug be an indicator that it is shot. It is there to keep expected shavings from recirculating. Now that it is drained, what did the oil look like?
But the recommended gear oil back in and see if it works. The T-case is pretty bulletproof from what I've heard and experienced.
Oil was kinda thick and pretty dark brown. I'll give it a shot refilling the t-case, having some trouble getting the driveshafts off anyways, couple of rounded nuts.
Also, the t-case was working, but it was making a whining noise under load and grinding when I let off the gas (you could hear it as well as feel it in the transmissions gear shifter).
Forgot, the t-case came out of an '04 with about 90k miles I believe. Junkyard said it ran fine when they got it.
page 533 gives the detail on front housing, which is all that you are after from the 04-model t-case.
what you can do is take the front housing off of the 04' and see whats going on in there. If you remove the inspection plate on the side and the front output flange and oil-seal you are able to see the moving parts. If bearing, dog clutch ring and selector assembly checks out then you can put it on the 03'. If you have to replace the bearing, so be it, but either use the LT230 re-seal kit or the high-dollar Hylomar for putting it back together. The cheap stuff used for gasket-making will come off inside the case at some point.
Think I found the source of the whining and grinding noise. When unbolting the t-case from the transmission I found the following.
The longer bolt was on the front side of the t-case/transmission, I'm guessing in the wrong hole. It's a little bent and the end of the bolt is a little chewed up.
With that, does anyone know if there is a diagram showing where each bolt goes so when I put the old t-case in I don't make the same mistake?
Also, if anyone could send me a link to buy new bolts I would appreciate it.
Album with pictures of the bolts and the inside of the t-case if anyone is interested as well: http://imgur.com/a/mVujf
Have you opened up all of the inspection plates and searched thoroughly for damage to the gears and bearings? That little piece from the bolt could have done some damage before making its way to the bottom of the case. On that note, I would be looking for said piece/fragments starting with the drain-plug magnet. Also flush the inside of the case well. No foreign materials allowed.