Hey everyone so starting a new thread off of the knocking sound I was hearing. Took this to my mechanic and below is the laundry list of things we see. Lots of valuable info on this forum so please let me know your thoughts...

Looks like the previous owner didn't do alot of maintenance on it so while your reading through if you could also let me know about treatments and recommended fluid changes, would appreciate it.

I think we diagnosed the knocking, sounds like the bearings in the idle or tension pully are bad, put the stethoscope on it and you can clearly here it. Anyone know how big a job that is to fix? or if ou can fix one without the other?

Valve covers are leaking...have done this before but not on this car, looks like you need to pull the entire intake off to get to them, might be more complicated than that so please let me know your thoughts.

There is a clunking sound coming from the torque converter and front axle where the drive shaft meets when you put it in reverse (any other gear is fine). Seems to be caused by the play in the front drive shaft (which looks new). Not sure how much your supposed to have but you can clearly rotate it about an inch or so. Rear shaft has a little play but not much

Looks like there are leaks around the torque converter, looks difficult to get to everything not sure how big a job it is or where to begin.

Leaking around the rear shaft where it connects to the axle again not sure how hard it is to do this.

Am going to draing the trans and do a fluid/filter replace. I see where the pugs are and this might be a silly question but how do you get the fluid in the fill hole, if I am looking in the right place its horizontal and barely above the bottom of the pan? Apologies in advance if i am just embarrassing myself...

Any help or thoughts again are appreciated.

Thanks
Joe

 

You chould replace all of your pulleys if one has a bad bearing. At 75K if one is gone, the others are close behind.

The clunk into reverse is a little normal. They tend to have a little play, but have you re-built the front driveshaft yet? Look on the top for a sticky that is labeled major service. It has a list of a ll the fluids to change.

The tranny fluid should be changed and then filled with the truck running. Do a search and you will find a write up on here. You should get a lube pump to fill it. I used the one I had that screws right on to a quart bottle to fill the lower unit in my boat.

Find out what kind of fluid is leaking and from where. If it is your transfer case, try a little white shepherd in it befor you go changin seals.

 

Go to the top of the Discovery section, find my service list and along with your other items.
The tranny doesn't need a filter change at your mileage.
As for the v/c leaks, take a 12 point, 8 mm, 1/4" socket and tighten the 2 bolts on both valve cover, that should stop the leak.
You will need to rebuild or replace the front drive shaft before the dry u-joints fail.

 

Thanks Mike, going to go through that list over the next couple of weeks...great info...

Rained this weekend so will take care of the VC tonight where its leaking. As for the Drive Shaft, it looks pretty new, still has the clean landrover sticker on it and everything...so i assume its been rebuilt, what could I look at that would tell me?

 

The drive shaft issue is the u-joints which you really can't see unless the shaft is removed. If you also search the issue one guy here recently posted he had a mechanic do it for him and the guy wondered why it was being done until he took it apart.

Trust this if Mike says it needs to be done then do it!!

The Goose

 

it could have been replaced with a stock one. the stock shafts are sealed. problem is the u joints sit to close to the cat. the cat gets hot dries it out and the u joint bursts blowing the shaft apart and destroying your transfer case and transmission on the way out.

it should have greasable u joints with zerk fittings. 3 on the front shaft and one flush fitting on the slip shaft. one zerk on the rear shaft and one flush on the rear slip shaft.

You will need to rebuild your drive shaft for around $70 in parts (qty 3) 344 precision u joints (qty 1) 617 precision ball kit or if you have an Advance Auto nearby PDQ 1-0005 (qty 3 @ $14) and Neapco 7-0081NG (qty 1 @ $30) Your rear propshaft takes the same u-joint.

Your other option, have it rebuilt at a local drive line shop for $200 including parts or buy a replacement from Tom Woods ($350).

After your new or rebuilt drive shaft is in make sure to grease each zerk fitting at every oil change or after off-roading or making a water crossing.

 

Thanks Mike, the bolts were loose, all 4 of them, so tightened them down and seems to have stopped it.

As for the drive shaft, Hilltoppersx gave me some great (Thanks) info but still worried about paying to pull it all apart to find out that it was just done when the new shaft was put on. is there anything that I can do to tell if its been rebuilt before I drop 200 bucks that could be spent on something else.

Also, I replaced the water pump about a month ago as it was leaking all over the place. But I still smell that sweet coolant when its running...initially I thought that it might be residual just burning off the block but I can still smell it. I looked over everything as best I could but couldn't find any other leaks and the overflow is still full? any thoughts on where it might be coming from?

 

this is simple Joe...don't make it complicated...just like hilltoppersx wrote "it should have greasable u joints with zerk fittings. 3 on the front shaft and one flush fitting on the slip shaft. one zerk on the rear shaft and one flush on the rear slip shaft"...if you do not see these zerk fittings, it has NOT been re-built.

As far as your coolant smell; try the throttle body heater gasket/plate first...if not, head gaskets are in order (which is in the future no matter what actually).

Good luck...and welcome to Land Rover

 

get under the truck and inspect the drive shaft before you do anything.

then clean the engine up and find the coolant leak.

 

Done, have attached some pics..since i wouldn't know what a greasable ujoint or zerk fitting is if it smacked me in the head, please let me know if I have them....

I checked the entire engine and can't find the coolant leak anywhere, when i replaced the water pump we replaced the gasket as well so that should be good, unless we did something wrong. If it was a head gasket wouldn't my oil have the coolant in it?

Also attached a pic of the TC, seems to be leaking from the plate, I assume you can take it off and reseal it? Any way check out the pics and let me know...thanks again