Looking to buy'01 Disco with NO KEY
#1
Looking to buy'01 Disco with NO KEY
The truck was impounded and never got picked up by the owner. Unfortunately, they don't have the key or title, but can provide a clean bill of sale. It's listed for 1,200 bucks, and he exterior at the least looks pretty good. Is there a way to get the thing started in their lot without the key so that I can see that it runs before I spend my money? I read about removing the shroud and using a screwdriver on a range rover forum but obviously different car so wondering if any of you guys have experience with this? In the meantime, I've messaged the seller for more info.
#2
You are US market, yes? If so, I think immobilizer is the roadblock here. I don't think you'll easily get it running to verify condition without disabling the immobilizer -- which means 1) key 2) ignition switch 3) cluster and 4) BCU. And 5) battery which is probably dead if been sitting. Ideally 1-4 matched set from known working vehicle.
Sorry ... Not the news you want. (everyone pls chime in if I'm wrong about this)
For $1200 I'd probably chance it.
Sorry ... Not the news you want. (everyone pls chime in if I'm wrong about this)
For $1200 I'd probably chance it.
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Disco Dad (01-17-2024)
#3
This is how I got mine. Tow company, mine did have a title, but did not have cats. No keys.
Pull shroud and the ignition module. You can unscrew the actual switch from the back of the module (you might be able to remove the switch without removing the ignition module, and if you source a switch from a junk yard you can just unplug the switch in the column under the dash and plug the scrap one in). On mine I was able to turn that switch with a screwdriver. And on mine it started right up and idled fine. Died if I gave it gas (needed a new MAF). I am not entirely clear on the immobilizer. Before I got RAVE I kept finding conflicting information and by the time I got RAVE I had mine working so I never read the source.
My understanding (which very well could be wrong) is that if the immobilizer has not been deactivated in the BCU/ECU, and you try to bypass the ignition in this way, it will immobilize. There is no "chip" nonsense in the key, but there is a do-dad in the ignition that generates a signal that tells the computers a key was actually used. It is not a simple on-off signal either. I think you could take the ignition apart, remove the wafers, reassemble and start it with a screwdriver. The do-dad generates the coded signal as long as the ignition cylinder turns (I think).
There are a couple of options for getting keys. You can take the VIN and whatever ownership proof your dealer requires and they can look up the factory cut codes for your truck. A locksmith can use those to make a key. That didn't work for me. Mine had been re-keyed at some point.
You can hire a locksmith to come make you a key. Couple hundred in my area, and I was doing this in the middle of COVID so who knows if they actually would/could have come at that time. I skipped this option.
After the cut codes failed me, I removed the drivers door handle and took it to a locksmith. Cost me less than $100, but I don't remember the exact amount. That key would operate the door, but not the ignition. Not wanting to pay again, and have a door key and an ignition key, I pulled the ignition apart at that point and re-keyed it myself to the key I had made for the door. You have to drill the ignition to do this, and then you have to tap it for a screw on re-assembly.
Hope that helps.
Pull shroud and the ignition module. You can unscrew the actual switch from the back of the module (you might be able to remove the switch without removing the ignition module, and if you source a switch from a junk yard you can just unplug the switch in the column under the dash and plug the scrap one in). On mine I was able to turn that switch with a screwdriver. And on mine it started right up and idled fine. Died if I gave it gas (needed a new MAF). I am not entirely clear on the immobilizer. Before I got RAVE I kept finding conflicting information and by the time I got RAVE I had mine working so I never read the source.
My understanding (which very well could be wrong) is that if the immobilizer has not been deactivated in the BCU/ECU, and you try to bypass the ignition in this way, it will immobilize. There is no "chip" nonsense in the key, but there is a do-dad in the ignition that generates a signal that tells the computers a key was actually used. It is not a simple on-off signal either. I think you could take the ignition apart, remove the wafers, reassemble and start it with a screwdriver. The do-dad generates the coded signal as long as the ignition cylinder turns (I think).
There are a couple of options for getting keys. You can take the VIN and whatever ownership proof your dealer requires and they can look up the factory cut codes for your truck. A locksmith can use those to make a key. That didn't work for me. Mine had been re-keyed at some point.
You can hire a locksmith to come make you a key. Couple hundred in my area, and I was doing this in the middle of COVID so who knows if they actually would/could have come at that time. I skipped this option.
After the cut codes failed me, I removed the drivers door handle and took it to a locksmith. Cost me less than $100, but I don't remember the exact amount. That key would operate the door, but not the ignition. Not wanting to pay again, and have a door key and an ignition key, I pulled the ignition apart at that point and re-keyed it myself to the key I had made for the door. You have to drill the ignition to do this, and then you have to tap it for a screw on re-assembly.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by sqlbullet; 01-17-2024 at 08:28 AM.
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