Looking at buying my 1st Land Rover
#11
#12
For writing this Jim.... Tomorrow your rig is going to start throwing codes and dumping oil....
Last edited by Motorhead1; 08-28-2018 at 06:20 PM.
#13
Thanks for the advice whiteredkat, I'm going to borrow one. If it is running hot, would you rule it out altogether or is there a price you would still consider it at. Unfortunately the guy cancelled on me tonight because of work, so hopefully I can look at it tomorrow.
#14
My suggestion is to hookup to ODBC, then start it up, also find an image of the dash lights While it is warming up check for codes,and that all the lights come on.
It should run no higher than around 212 to 215, under load if it goes higher or stays around 215 even when moving I would pass.
It should run no higher than around 212 to 215, under load if it goes higher or stays around 215 even when moving I would pass.
#15
#16
#17
I have owned 10 total including my current 5. I am a degreed mechanical engineer and a 40 yr gearhead, so my perspective is one of someone with lots of experience and may run a bit counter to most of the opinions on here.
I don't think it is any worse than other similar age and capability vehicles, just different. My sons 00 Tahoe lost 2 and 3 gear (common GM problem for those years), Disco transmissions almost never go out. His 00 BMW 328 had a leaking water pump and a rotted coolant line requiring intake manifold removal. Jeeps are notorious for automatic tranmission issue (expensive). It does have an aluminum engine and will not tolerate being run while overheated, just like every other aluminum engine. The biggest problem with these is the cooling system materials (plastics) are prone to failure, so they will leak coolant and then when it is low they will overheat (so will BMW's). You can either:
A. Pre-emptively replace the cooling systems plastics
B. Watch it closely for leaks (just look under the truck when getting in).
C. Check your coolant level regularly
It is not a Toyota or Honda, which will last as long as you can stand them with no work. But no one accuses those of being cool, luxurious, or iconic (ok, maybe a Land Cruiser - but those are pricy).
I find parts readily available and relatively cheap (starter, ignition coil, CPS, head gaskets), etc.via RockAuto/Amazon/Advance, etc.
They are easy to repair with simple hand tools, and you can replace everything that causes serious problems for less than $500 in parts and drive trouble free for 50,000 plus miles.
That said, if you don't start by replacing all the bits that wear out it is driving and maintaining a somewhat complex puzzle - always throwing you new curves. But I like the thought experiments
If you have more specific questions, we might be able to fill in more gaps. Lots of good information here.
If you don't buy it, send me the link, I might.
I don't think it is any worse than other similar age and capability vehicles, just different. My sons 00 Tahoe lost 2 and 3 gear (common GM problem for those years), Disco transmissions almost never go out. His 00 BMW 328 had a leaking water pump and a rotted coolant line requiring intake manifold removal. Jeeps are notorious for automatic tranmission issue (expensive). It does have an aluminum engine and will not tolerate being run while overheated, just like every other aluminum engine. The biggest problem with these is the cooling system materials (plastics) are prone to failure, so they will leak coolant and then when it is low they will overheat (so will BMW's). You can either:
A. Pre-emptively replace the cooling systems plastics
B. Watch it closely for leaks (just look under the truck when getting in).
C. Check your coolant level regularly
It is not a Toyota or Honda, which will last as long as you can stand them with no work. But no one accuses those of being cool, luxurious, or iconic (ok, maybe a Land Cruiser - but those are pricy).
I find parts readily available and relatively cheap (starter, ignition coil, CPS, head gaskets), etc.via RockAuto/Amazon/Advance, etc.
They are easy to repair with simple hand tools, and you can replace everything that causes serious problems for less than $500 in parts and drive trouble free for 50,000 plus miles.
That said, if you don't start by replacing all the bits that wear out it is driving and maintaining a somewhat complex puzzle - always throwing you new curves. But I like the thought experiments
If you have more specific questions, we might be able to fill in more gaps. Lots of good information here.
If you don't buy it, send me the link, I might.
#18
there are many many rovers that I have seen even at Rover meets that don't even have a 180 stat or ultra guage
I wonder what temps they are running at, some people don't research even Rover shops and dealerships don't install 180 Tstat
my 04 with a brand new long block from previous owner installed by a reputable Rover shop had a oem Tstat when I bought it
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post