New to LR and anything under the hood...of any car. I bought my LR knowing it had issues and that these Disco's had issues so I could learn about the car and learn how to work on it. So far, it has met and exceeded my expectations to learn! (with your guys help of course)

1. Transmission oil temperature light came yesterday, let it cool over night, still stays on and comes on immediately - bad sensor? Any way to check the trans fluid level aside from draining it since my DII isn't fitted with a trans dipstick? It probably wouldn't hurt to put new fluid in...have heard NOT to do a ATF flush at this point?

2. How much oil is too much oil? (see pic below) After I got it back from the gaskets job it's been reading about an inch to inch and a half over the high fill line on the dipstick. Could this cause problems or force oil out? It appears there is some oil on my valve covers...I sure hope my new gaskets aren't struggling.

3. I'm attaching a pic of my driveshaft/u-joint (I hope), I'm assuming this hasn't been rebuilt/greasable joints...? And there appears to be some condensation gathering on it from a leak above it? (see pic)

4. I'm wondering if this apparent chip off my valve(?) can be an issue? I didn't notice it before I got it back after having the heads milled and valve job. Then again, it wasn't so clean before either, but I'd expect a heads up from the machine shop if they did it.

5. I'm running about every possible O2 sensor code still, after plugs, wires, etc. I grabbed some front O2 sensors while on sale from AB, can I install these myself? I noticed they aren't easy to get to. What tool/s are needed?

All in all, i'm falling for this truck more and more...just installed the new MAF sensor and intake hose today and I'm loving the power response. Any and all help is appreciated, and the most obvious answers are expected and helpful.

 

No dumb questions...only dumb when you dont ask....welcome....

1. don not flush tansmission fluid. can wake up sleeping crud. you can change fluid and then change again 60 days will usally do the trick. There is a transmission tune up kit and you can do. takes a couple hours on your back. Dont now about the light...maybe a blockage to the transmission cooler. SOmeone wikk chime in on that one.

2. Too much oil is not good. takes 6.3 i think qts... Clean oil stick with carb cleaner so its shiney..Try again . if its over, drain some out . Make sure you put doen carboard or you will make a mess when you put bak drain plug with oil comming out. Should be in the middel of the upper and lower marks.

3. It hasent been rebuilt. No grease nipples. There is a how to on the forum..just do a search. The condinsation is your aircon drain draining on the shaft. This is part of the problem. Rebuild will cost about under $80.00 for parts and you can do yourself or have a driveline shop do it. Do it know or you could take out your transmission if it breaks....alot on money then....

4. If it's not leaking ...dont worry...cosmetic....

5. they are ..well a bit of a pain.. The guy who designed them is a Fuc$king retard....just out of reach... I just did my daughters 02's...cleaned them up and now no codes.. You can get a 02 socket and get the one thats shallow as the drivers side front is nearly impossible with a long one.. Use some penatrator spray before you wrench on them and tmake sure you use ati siez when you put new ones in... Took me a hour to do all 4.

Let us know how you are comming....

All the best Chris

 

First, congrats on your Disco. That being said, here goes:
1. Buy an LED flashlight, you'll need it.
2. There is no transmission dipstick and the only way to check it is to open it up. You have to change the fluid at some point, but in my experience a machine is used to do this process. It is not something for someone without experience to attempt.
3. The oil fill capacity after an oil change is 6.1 quarts including the filter, but 6 even will suffice. If the oil level is 1" over the dipstick fill mark when the DII is cold, there may be 7 quarts or more in there which is just too much.
4. The DII front driveshaft is non-greasable, but have it checked. If it goes when you are driving you also lost the transmission. The condensation may be run off from the a/c system.
I am unfamiliar with the other questions, so I defer to the experts on the forum to answer instead. What I would advise is checking the coolant which should be orange DexCool and the coolant hoses.
If the hoses are too hard or soft, they need to be replaced.
If the three hoses on the top of the radiator and fan shroud have the bleeder valve in the hose, ditch them ASAP. The redesign from Land Rover has the bleeder in the plastic tee that connects them, and it is located right on the top. Change the thermostat as well if the hoses show signs of failure. The complete kit is on the Rovers North website.
I also recommend buying a can of Waxoyl 120-4 and spraying the door hinges and lock mechanisms. That is only available from Rovers North and runs about $16.00/can. Great stuff.
For motor oil, I prefer Mobil1 High Mileage 10W-40, but any high mileage oil will do. The reason for this is the oils designated as such have seal swell agents to help prevent seal leakage. Standard oils do not, and unless a synthetic is specifically high mileage branded, don't go near it as it will leak.
For the brush guard, just make sure it is compatible with the SRS Airbag system and does not interfere with their deployment. I only know that the Genuine Land Rover brushguard and ARB bumper w/bull bar meet this standard, but I have not researched it in a while.
Suspension wise, I would choose either Old Man Emu or Terrafirma. The difference is Terrafirma costs less, but has a true 2"+ lift with a 15mm piston shaft. The OME costs a little more as it has an 18mm piston shaft and adds a 1.5" or so lift. Your choice. Change the steering stabilizer as well.
For Genuine Land Rover parts, Rovers North has proven to have the most competitive prices. For more aftermarket choices, Atlantic British is the place to look.
Hope this helps and enjoy the ride.

 

Thank you for taking the time to respond. Can I find the transmission tune up kit you refer to at a local auto parts store or even wal-mart? Is there more to it then draining and filling, and then doing it over again?

I assumed I should probably drain some oil so I will do that tomorrow...not so sure about the o2 sensors though. We'll see.

I'm gonna study up on the driveshaft posts...I'd love to tackle that myself, and it will probably be the next thing I do. Though I'm tempted to get new coils and shocks since my rear bags are totally deflated and I'd like a slight lift (though a 2in lift would be a 4-5in for me now!). But if it will cost me less than $100 for the driveshaft, its priority 1.
Thanks again.

 

First off, thanks for the advice. Secondly, I'm gonna drain some oil tomorrow.

Sadly, to prove my ignorance...bleeder valve in the hose? How can I tell?

Thanks again, and I appreciate the springs and shocks info as well. I've been reading through the springs and bumper threads...love dreaming.

 

The bleeder valve is actually a plastic screw that is removed when the coolant is drained and refilled. On the old hose design, it is in the hose itself. In the new design, it is still a plastic screw, but relocated to the top of the plastic tee that holds the hoses together on the top of the radiator.
For the transmission service kit, go to www.roversnorth.com and you can either purchase the ProLine kit (Rovers North brand) for $28 or so, or you can purchase the genuine ZF kit for about $85. I would not buy it at the local auto store as they generally have no clue.
For the transmission fluid, you'll hear lots of opinions, but stick with the Genuine Land Rover fluid and you can't go wrong. I use Genuine Land Rover parts, OEM parts (genuine but w/o the box from the same supplier), ProLine from Rovers North, and Bosch, as they are of the best quality. You can get Bosch O2 sensors from AutoZone cheaper than almost anywhere else, though. Must be the exact fit version, not the universal.
Everytime you change the oil, you must also change the aluminum washer around the drain plug. Rovers North has a genuine filter kit with the filter & washer for just under $12.00 plus shipping.
Lastly, change the fuel cap. If it is old, your leaking fumes and dollars are evaporating. A cheap fix to solve the problem, again through Rovers North. The cap was made by Stant, but they are difficult to find at parts stores and cost as much as the genuine replacement part which now has updated design and construction.

 

just get regular transmission at the advanced auto or whatever you have... only go to the dealer if you want to bend over and take it in the .....oh yea....

 

the transmission kit you can get from autozone of similar. the oil drain plugs are cheaper in a pack from AB. O2 sensors you can get on the cheap from Amazon just don't get the bosch universals because you will have to splice and they may not work even after that. read the "how to" writeup on the drive shaft rebuild.

 

I drained the extra oil yesterday and wanted to replace the front o2 sensors, but I didn't have the right tool on hand. Hopefully tonight or tomorrow I will get those in and see if I can't get rid of the more codes.

Speaking of codes, i'm down from 14 (where I started), to 7! Yipee, and they are all o2 codes: 0134, 0135, 0154, 0155, 0160, and I think 0161 and 0141.

I'm also going to do an induction cleaning (seafoam) and check the trans fluid level. Questions: Is it ok to "top off" with the DexIII I bought not knowing what is currently in there? I'm not sure the last time it was changed, should I just drain what I can and refill it?

Lastly, anyone know where the trans oil temperature sensor is and how to replace it? I'll look through previous threads again.

Thanks.

 

Trans: drain trans fluid, remove oil pan, replace oil filter, fit oil pan with new gasket and then fill up with fresh trans fluid.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9240.cfm
You can search locally for the trans filter kit.
The trans temp sensor is on the trans oil cooler, attached to the front of the radiator.
For the codes, check your air intake hose (this part http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ESR4236G.cfm) where the PCV hose attaches, it is common that they tear at this point and you get codes if there is an air leak. Run your engine and the wiggle the PCV hose and listen for air being sucked in, if so then seal it with RTV.