problem one
99 disco II read misfire on 8, random misfire, fuel to lean...changed wires and plugs fixed skipping for 2 days and has now resumed...used common wires from auto store but its only been 2days surly not bad...shop suggested liffters and camshaft while handing me a $6500 quote to fix it...also said that where wasn't a gasket on it not leeking oil but I've seen none on my concrete

problem two
loud rattle when car goes into goes into over drive...idles with the common rover tick but when you open it up it sounds horrible...this problem existed before the skipping

Please Any help

 

Okay-- let's start with how many miles are on the vehicle, if you have serviced it at the major milestone marks (like the 60K service), and how long you have owned it. The CEL (check engine light) will come on for ANY engine management related problem. I would have leaned towards a coil pack being bad if you would have stated that the engine miss was still there after changing out the plug wires. But-- now I would suspect the cam position sensor on the front of the engine. These act up before failure and will cause a misfire before they just stop allowing the engine to start---period.

The noise you are hearing is a little more difficult to venture an educated guess on, as your description is kinda vague. It could be the Y-pipe catalytic convertors which are starting to disintegrate internally, and will cause a rattling noise. One way to check these is to get on the ground with the vehicle not running. Take a rubber mallet and strike the catalytic convertors (one on each side of the Y-pipe) and listen for the rattle. If so-- you are looking at a replacement of the Y-pipe now. Failure to do so will cause a obstruction in one or both ---leading to major engine damage.

Or....the noise may be driveline related. You may have a universal joint failing in the front driveshaft in what is called the Cardan-joint. Fairly common on Disco II models that have 100K miles or more.

On the oil leak you mentioned, there are numerous places where fluid leaks spring forth on a Land Rover. Some of them are front and rear main seals, timing case cover gasket, head gaskets, steering box, pinion seals on the differentials. What is key is taking care of the major leaks, and sometimes living with those that are "seeping" as opposed to "dripping". If you are not seeing any real accumulation on the ground under your daily parking spot --then most likely you have a location that is seeping.

Read all of my tech info pages that are organized into major component sections. These will give you a good primer on what to look for. Just click on the link below:

www.eurotekapg.com


Hope this helps,

Geoman

 

I have owned the car for 2 months. I don't know it the regular services were done. It has 125,000. The rattle is in the motor but I cant tell exactly where. When if manually control the gas from under the hood and open the gas up there is a point were it sounds like a rod is gonna fly out of the block. This prob. stumpped a so called lr tech when he heard itbut service center suggested the camshaft and lifters but said no way to know for sure. I'll get the pp work and post everything they said

on the first problem the CEL flashes during its worst skipping and has been on since ive had vehicle

thanks for your help

 

ok...this is what lr says is wrong

oil pan gask and cyl head gask leak
ticking due to possible worn camshaft and rocker arms
many codes for misfires needs wires coil packs and plugs

 

Not know what is causing the noise I would suggest you quit running it until the oil pan and intake manifold can be pulled for an internal inspection. Seriously don't even start it again if you want any chance of not doing any more damage.
Mike

 

well other than a 6500 repair bill...where should I start to troubleshoot

 

 

We have given you sound advice here. If you follow it you could avoid a major blow-up. There is a HUGE difference in noise between a valvetrain problem and a rod knock. Do as Disco Mike said-- pull the oil pan and the intake manifold now. Don't drive it, and don't run it even with no load on it ---with the racket it is making--- or you could face a total component failure and big bucks to rectify it.

If you don't have the skill level to do this, I recommend you have it TOWED to a reputable Land Rover shop. And that doesn't necessarily mean one that says "Serving all British makes".


Regards,
Geoman

 

Yeah...I just cant see putting any money into this vehicle...it was given to me by a friend that was leaving town and he had no time to sell it...with the shop quote I got to fix it on top of the four hundred dollar diagnose fee I think I might just drive her till she blows and send her to the JY after that but thanks for the advice

 

Where in the country are you located?

Geoman
www.eurotekapg.com