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-   -   Main/Crank Bearing replacement write up (https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/main-crank-bearing-replacement-write-up-48197/)

drowssap 04-08-2014 07:00 AM

pull the crank and regrind it

that is what i was looking for, I did not see that you reground it.
i though you put standard bearing on a 110k mile crank

wallyman424 04-08-2014 01:25 PM


Originally Posted by drowssap (Post 457189)
pull the crank and regrind it

that is what i was looking for, I did not see that you reground it.
i though you put standard bearing on a 110k mile crank

Reread his last post, I think thats exactly what he's saying. He did NOT pull the crank and regrind, but rather just replaced the bearings with STD sized parts.

OffroadFrance 04-08-2014 03:11 PM


Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech (Post 457144)
Didn't matter if he crank was under or not. The customer wasn't going to pay 3k to pull the crank and regrind it. When you are repairing a customers 10 year old car it's not about doing it "right", it's about achieving a goal as cost effectively as possible. There is no guarantee that grinding the crank and putting in oversized bearings would net anything better than just replacing the bearings.

I totally agree, I've seen many rebuilt motors fail with regrinds and O/S shells soon after they were rebuilt.

Money is always the limiting factor and if funds were unlimited they would chuck in a new engine.

raeuspius 05-08-2014 12:15 PM

Agreed
 

Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech (Post 457144)
Didn't matter if he crank was under or not. The customer wasn't going to pay 3k to pull the crank and regrind it. When you are repairing a customers 10 year old car it's not about doing it "right", it's about achieving a goal as cost effectively as possible. There is no guarantee that grinding the crank and putting in oversized bearings would net anything better than just replacing the bearings.

:cool:I know this is an old thread, however, BUMP if I may. I have worked on many engines that would benefit from re-shelling and believe me, if i can do it without removing the crank shaft ( if no visible wear is present) I will. Engine removal can be 3 - 5 hrs of tedious work. Get it done with the FIX ,without the added arbitrary precautionary removal as the manual would state, is a learned by experience or OJT method IMHO. I am a back yard mechanic and have the faciity to do it by the book, however again, Arbitrary measures do not add up to NECESSARY or cost / time effectiveness. Measure twice and cut once. CHEERS!

mark d 05-10-2014 10:13 AM

Great write up
 
Thanks for all the info and photos. I wish I could find a mechanic like you here in the Los Angeles area.

OffroadFrance 05-10-2014 02:28 PM

"Measure twice and cut once"............it's one of my favourite sayings also and it is so true.........now even my wife quotes that saying:eek:.

It avoids so many 'cock ups' when in a hurry. :cool:

powderhound 06-23-2014 06:27 PM

Anybody have a parts list for this overhaul.

I already have my sump off searching for the root of my 8-9PSI hot idle oil pressure (accompanied by minor tick.) I didn't find any issues and minimal sludge in the sump so I'm considering digging deeper while I have it off.

So far my list is as follows
Buy up-front:
Timing Chain Kit from AB ~$120 (includes sump, Front cover gaskets)
Standard Main Bearing Set ~$80
Rod Bearings ~ $80
Rear Crankshaft Seal ~ $20
180 Thermostat (While i'm in there) ~$80

If necessary:
Oil Pump gears $100


Two other questions:

1.) Will this considerably increase the expected life of my engine assuming proper maintenance/attention from here on out?

2.) I also have an oil leak in my valve cover gaskets. Is there any advantage to doing it all at once or should I get the bottom half done first?

drowssap 06-24-2014 06:26 AM

If necessary:
Oil Pump gears $100

this is probably the original problem with low oil pressure I would think it would be at the top of the list, long before bearings.

pguerra75 06-24-2014 09:59 AM

Thanks for the valuable insight, I will be doing this on my rover in the coming months.

RoverMasterTech 06-24-2014 11:17 AM

You wont be able to replace the rear main seal as it is one piece and slides over the crank shaft. They never leak anyway. you will HAVE TO replace the rear main cap crusifix seals.


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