Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Major issue with Discovery II - Need help, suggestions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 06-12-2012 | 11:24 AM
oilspotLR's Avatar
Winching
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 1
Default

Originally Posted by drowssap
Thats were the hard leaks are to find, the ones that dont leak all the time.
We all love the bipolar leaks...
 
  #12  
Old 06-12-2012 | 09:27 PM
jfall's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 44
Default

Good Sir,
Sorry to hear of the coolant system issues.

Surely you must have the water fall noise in the heater core from all the air in the system.

When the truck is hot and there is coolant in it, if you take of the expansion tank cap
S*L*O*W*L*Y and then let it idle - if it keeps pushing coolant out the top of the expansion tank then you have air getting into the cooling system from the cylinders.

Via - a crack in the head - as people have said on this thread - or
from a crack in the head gasket thru a hairline crack to the coolant jacket.

Could a slipped liner pressurize the system?
If the liner slipped down just a few mm or so and there happened to be a crack in the side wall of the cylinder into the water jacket.
But I doubt that.

Probably a head gasket or a bad head as the guys have advised.
Maybe put new rebuilt heads onto it.

All of this is tedious and frustrating I know.

For $2,000 an indy shop in Boulder, CO will put on rebuilt heads in addition to the head gaskets.
They seem to always have a lot of rovers in the lot there.
They also have 3 Discovery II's with blown engines which were not easily fixed.
Very best,
J
 
  #13  
Old 06-14-2012 | 04:22 PM
indiefantv's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Default Found leak source

I found the source of the leak... its the bleed screw. I started the car, ran it for awhile and noticed coolant leaking out of there. That explains the leak and why the coolant is always low.

Now, to fix the problem...

Has anyone had any luck finding a screw that fits - at a local hardware shop or automotive repair shop?

The screw itself may not be bad - the threading is good - so maybe I can just replace the rubber grommet instead.

I have the seemingly updated hoses that have a plastic T intersection with the plastic bleed screw on top.

Does anyone have a good source online for the bleed screw if I were to order a new one and go that route?
 
  #14  
Old 06-14-2012 | 06:29 PM
innzane's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Default

The hose has a notch inside that holds a nut or retainer.
If you take off the hose you can find something that will replace it
pretty easily.
I have fantasized about putting a tire stem in the hole, glue it in with the right stuff, then you can pressure check and bleed air from that spot.
 
  #15  
Old 06-15-2012 | 12:32 AM
jfall's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 44
Default

If you are sure it is not a head gasket - put in Barr's Leaks.

It will stop antifreeze from leaking out to where it is going.

I know I know ..
Bad bad, voodoo stuff.

But, it works.
I have run it in our Discovery I for two years now.
No issues.

This may get your thru, until you can really figure out what is wrong.
If it is just stupid simple leak - this may seal it for a long long time.

Don't get me wrong.
I believe in fixing it right.

I also believe in not destroying it too.
And, this will help you retain coolant.

-----
I bought a Discovery II a few months ago.
It had a cylinder #1 misfire.
And, steam out the back pipe.
And, the over flow bottle vomiting out antifreeze.
and the waterfall sound in the heater core.

I put in Barr's leaks. I got rid of the steam out the back - mostly.
And, I got rid of the cylinder #1 misfire and the codes.

But, I still had massive pressure in the cooling system.
And, the heater waterfall sound.

I replaced the head gaskets and life got better.
And, I don't run Barr's leaks in the Discovery II as there are not leaks save for one in the radiator where the screw goes into the plastic.
 
  #16  
Old 06-15-2012 | 08:16 AM
drowssap's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 317
From: Boston Strong
Default

BMW sells a brass screw and o ring for a few dollars, use that. Dont use stop leak for something as silly as that.
 
  #17  
Old 06-15-2012 | 08:52 AM
Disco Mike's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 106
From: Denver, Colorado
Default

Originally Posted by jfall
Good Sir,
Sorry to hear of the coolant system issues.

Surely you must have the water fall noise in the heater core from all the air in the system.

When the truck is hot and there is coolant in it, if you take of the expansion tank cap
S*L*O*W*L*Y and then let it idle - if it keeps pushing coolant out the top of the expansion tank then you have air getting into the cooling system from the cylinders.

Via - a crack in the head - as people have said on this thread - or
from a crack in the head gasket thru a hairline crack to the coolant jacket.

Could a slipped liner pressurize the system?
If the liner slipped down just a few mm or so and there happened to be a crack in the side wall of the cylinder into the water jacket.
But I doubt that.

Probably a head gasket or a bad head as the guys have advised.
Maybe put new rebuilt heads onto it.

All of this is tedious and frustrating I know.

For $2,000 an indy shop in Boulder, CO will put on rebuilt heads in addition to the head gaskets.
They seem to always have a lot of rovers in the lot there.
They also have 3 Discovery II's with blown engines which were not easily fixed.
Very best,
J
You "NEVER" remove a coolant pressure cap with an engine running especially a hot one. Doing so lowers the coolant pressure which lowers the coolants boiling point and allows the engine to run hotter. This is really bad advice.
 
  #18  
Old 06-15-2012 | 09:18 AM
Disco Mike's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 106
From: Denver, Colorado
Default

Originally Posted by indiefantv
I found the source of the leak... its the bleed screw. I started the car, ran it for awhile and noticed coolant leaking out of there. That explains the leak and why the coolant is always low.

Now, to fix the problem...

Has anyone had any luck finding a screw that fits - at a local hardware shop or automotive repair shop?

The screw itself may not be bad - the threading is good - so maybe I can just replace the rubber grommet instead.

I have the seemingly updated hoses that have a plastic T intersection with the plastic bleed screw on top.

Does anyone have a good source online for the bleed screw if I were to order a new one and go that route?
BMW uses the same screw and sells them for around $7 or order one from British Parts of Utah, they also have them.
 
  #19  
Old 11-05-2012 | 03:45 PM
Dee Quirod's Avatar
4wd High
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Tx
Default

Originally Posted by indiefantv
This is a LONG story with a lot of strange issues. It has gone on now for almost 8 months - I am frustrated, tired, and I just want to get my Discovery II running properly.

I'll try to keep this short without missing any details.

I have a Discovery II - 120k miles - Purchased middle of last year. 4th Discovery I've owned, and this one has had SO many issues.

It was originally brought in for what I was told was an exhaust leak inside the engine. Turned out to be the head gaskets.

Head gaskets replaced.

After that it overheated once - we assumed it was an air bubble, purged it and continued to drive. No problems for about a week. However, in the middle of Kansas it started overheating again - took it in for service, they said it was the fan.

Fan and fan clutch replaced.

Drove 60 miles. Overheated again. Had it towed back to dealership, they said they didn't know what was wrong and kept it for a few weeks. Eventually they said it was the thermostat.

Thermostat replaced.

Got the car back - everything was fine for a few weeks, but then the overheating started again - and started getting worse. Would overheat once a week but then eventually got to a point where I didn't feel comfortable driving it.

Took it into Land Rover - they said it had a crack in the radiator. Had it checked by a second mechanic who said there was no crack but that the radiator was clogged. He also said it needed the thermostat replaced.

Radiator replaced. Thermostat replaced.

Mechanic said he tested it for several hours idling in the shop and for an hour in town and said it was fixed.

Picked it up - it overheating 15 minutes after picking up. Heater runs COLD.

I've been working with Disco Mike on this one now...
Pressure tested system, no leaks.
Pressure tested cap, no leaks.
Added coolant, bled system of air per his instructions.
Drove car for the past few days - no major issues, would sometimes start to get hot and I could run the heat and get the temperature back down again without any issues. I equated this to air in the system.

However, now it seems to be back to square one again - I drove it to work today, it started overheating on the way. Turned on the heater - no hot air. It seems to get worse after driving on the highway.

It also appears to be random... sometimes it will overheat after 5 minutes of driving, sometimes not at all.

Every time I think this thing is fixed it ends up being something else - but it's always the same symptoms.

WHAT AM I MISSING HERE?!

I have never had this many problems or frustrations with a car - something is not adding up here. I've been to MANY mechanics and they can't seem to diagnose and repair properly. I don't get it!

What else can I do, what can I try?!

Current symptoms:
Overheating and boiling over - lots of steam while driving - system won't cool down, heat runs cold. I have been told this means there is air in the system. WHERE IS THE AIR COMING FROM?! There are NO LEAKS?!
Indie,
So.. I'm not finding if you ever found a solution for this issues. Did you ever figure it out?

Dee
 
  #20  
Old 11-05-2012 | 04:46 PM
mirrajumper's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 188
Likes: 11
Default

Sorry to hear of your trouble. This may be a silly question, however what is the deal with "No HEAT"? Does it seem possible that this means that you have a coolant blockage that is not allowing coolant to circulate. So even with the new parts installed.......the car will overheat due to lack of circulation?Too much sealant in the wrong places causing a block? Hope you get things solved soon. Let us know what happens.
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:24 AM.