Mechanic says: I need a new engine? Please Help!
 

Towed the 2003 Disco II to mechanic. He was concerned even before I got it there that I had told him the #3 was misfiring. He said when he pulled the spark plug out, coolant poured out. He said based on the fact that it was the #3 and full of fluid, he feels confident it dropped a cylinder sleeve and I need to put a new engine in.

Hoping you guys can help me find a good engine. He sais he goes through LDQ and he will try to see whats out there and get back to me but the used engine should run around $2,400 plus all the other ancillary parts etc. and then labor. I tend to trust this board and moderators more than anything though. Christmas, not working right now, 3 kids, etc. etc.. (violins playing) so help me if you can.

1) Does the logic that he used that I have a dropped cylinder sleeve make sense.

2) Disco is clean with lots of extras so I would like to keep it and not part it. How and where does one go about finding a good used engine?

3) If I put a used engine in, what makes sense in terms of what to have him do to it. (ie. New head gasket and machine head??, New lifters?? I dont know???....)

4) Lastly, these things are famous for the slipping sleeve tic. I would cry if after spending all this money I end up with that. Are there used engines out their that dont have this issue? Can it be rectified while the engine is pulled in some way?

Sorry for all the questions but I really need your help!

Did you allow your engine to over heat , get into the red and or turn on the red light and if so for how long.
Your mechanic is guessing at this point and it is Christmas so he is looking for that extra money for presents for himself.
I locked up my engine, 99 D2, had a flood #2 cylinder, pulled the heads and it was just a major head gasket failure, replaced the head gasket and still driving it 2 years later.
You should always pull the head and pressure test it before replacing it.

Coolant passages are nearest the 1,2,7 and 8 cylinders, so if 3 has coolant, he might be correct. A pressure test with the heads off would say for certain.

On preventing future slipped sleeve issues, it's my understanding that the 4.6L is more prone to this failure, and the only tried and true methods are pinning or installing top hat liners.

Pinning is going to be worlds cheaper than installing top hat liners, but that said neither is without cost. Your machinist can elaborate on the differences in cost.

On what to do with a used engine before install:
- Gaskets and seals (all of them)
- Rod bearings
- Main bearings if you can find them
- Timing chain and sprockets
- Water pump
- Oil pump gears

Is this a common failure at 89,000 miles? Any way to avoid these slipped sleeves?

I have seen several reply's that the liner had dropped and the gasket is toast. From my inspection, there is a register on the bottom of the casting that seats the liner during the manufacturing process. The liner is pressed into the bore and stops at contact.

I believe as does my machinist that the liner has moved upwards from the force of the piston in a overheat situation. That tends to crush the fiber area of the gasket as the fire ring is not in contact with the liner. Once that happens, the loss of coolant is unstoppable. I had considered a copper gasket to match the bore, but opted to top hat the block. Look for a head gasket where the fire ring matches the bore and covers the liner. I would think the liners would then be incapable of moving upwards. It would not solve a coolant leak between the liner and block as a top hat would.

Just my .02

MAK

That's nice and I agree that there's some chance it's nothing more than a head gasket, but doing that has got to cost at least an hour labor. I think the idea here is the mechanic is suggesting to apply that hour toward a swap rather than on diagnostic in the face of a likely poor prognosis. He gave you his opinion. He should be able to quote estimates for your options.

If it's clean, the best bet is a donor swap to get it running and sell it. If you have to keep it, then it's your choice whether you test and regasket the old block or swap in a top-end rebuilt motor.

If your hell bent of keeping your current Disco then here's afew reasonable options (IF YOU DECIDE TO SWAP OUT THE ENGINE).

Rather than finding a donor D2 engine from a scrap yard, which probably has the same issue or soon to have.... instead consider a remanufactured engine that has improved sleeves and other components: Rover 4.6 Short Block Engine - Discovery II And Range Rover

OR

Contact DAP Enterprise and inquire about the brand new 4.6 engines they have access to... this is the most expensive route and the average cost is around $8000 (new engine plus labor): Contact D.A.P.

Personally I would go with the remanufactured engine from Atlantic British seeing how it has the improved sleeves. BUT you could just find a cheap broken down D2 and buy it as a donor/parts truck (dont pay more than $1000 for it though) and use the donor engine. But there is a good chance that the problem with the slipped sleeve or overheating has or will eventually occur with the donor engine - you have no idea how the previous owner treated that donor engine and you have no idea if the engine ever overheated. Thats why I would recommend the links above instead. Least you know they are either brand new or improved.

Good luck to you

Where are you located?

You can get a brand new short block shipped to you from the UK for $5000, then you swap over your heads etc. and you are good to go.

You can top hat it with LA sleeves and be money ahead if the block is OK. About 3000.00 for a complete rebuild. Double your extra cash by folding it in half and sticking it in your pocket.