Couple of weeks ago I got the sad news that I was in need of new head gaskets. I finally got the heads off after a battle with some of the head bolts. I broke 2 5/8" craftsman sockets and a 3/8" extension in the process. The key is getting the socket as flat and square on the bolt as possible. For me, it required scraping some burnt oil off of the internal bolts. Other than that, I've been pleasantly surprised by the difficulty of this job. Thanks to the advice from a few members here, I documented with pictures all the way as well as labeled the parts, bolts and their sizes. It is a big time consumer, but this is a job I encourage anyone with a logical brain and the correct tools (not much) to do. You will save a lot of money and gain a better understanding of your engine.


Now I have a decision to make... I scraped all of the old gasket and junk off of the flat surface and lightly went over it with some 0 grade steel wool to really clean it up. The surface is now completely flat to the naked eye. I used a straight edge and checked several angles of the surface and there isn't the slightest gap anywhere. It is flat. The leak was obvious when I got the heads off. On the right side of the block (sitting in car) furthest back, you could see there was oil coming from the back cylinder, around and into the water jacket. You could see where the gasket was missing chunks from the same area. I even found some pieces of gasket stopped up at the thermostat that I think are from the same spot. This makes the most sense to me because of a failed chemical block test and a lot of combustion pressure.

What I want to know is how crucial is it that I get my heads checked by a pro? How important is the roughness? Is there a good sealer to use? I can't imagine putting these heads back on as is, with new gaskets and them not sealing, especially with the correct amount of torque. What do you guys think? I'm literally about to cash in my nickels and dimes here...

 

get 'em skimmed.
you've come this far.
________
Problems With Nexium

 

I won't disagree with cranky, but if you're broke, you might stretch some thin (3lb LOL) fishing line across the head in various directions. (backlit)

You might at least see if it's warped.
(preferred way is a machinists' staightedge and feeler guage, tho')

I'd also recommend running a magnet or thorough flushing after steel wool.

luck,greg

 

Thanks for the speedy replies. I'm not worried about warpage so much because I DID use a straight edge at several angles and both heads are very flat. Corner to corner, side to side, between cylinders, near water jackets, etc. It all lines up and if there is any space, it's microscopic. I guess in my mind, I figure, they're flat as hell, completely clean, brand new composite gaskets.. so whats the point in having them resurfaced other than to have a piece of mind that they are machine smooth? How big of a difference will it really make if I can't even see a difference? It wouldn't be a question if funds weren't an issue, but they are.

 

If you don't have the rave cd, download it below in my sig.

You'll find specs for surface trueness in the overhaul section I believe

Sounds like you're on the right track, tho'

as you know that alum is going to move no matter what, when hot.

Oh, I just remembered, another poster who I believe knows his stuff, suggests NOT oiling the bolts as the rave says.(he says maybe the oil contaminates the head gasket.)

He wraps threads (2) times with teflon, then puts a SMALL dab of grease under bolthead, I like it.

luck,greg

 

Fishing line, that i she most inaccurate way in the world to check the heads. There is only one way and that is with a mechanics straight edge and a feeler gauge. I can just hear the story from you when the gasket blows again and your reply is, "Well I checked them with some fishing line".
The head must be checked from 6 point, don't have them resurfaced just to be doing it though.
As for parts, I hope you got all new gasket set as well a new head bolts and a t/stat. Also, if your bleed screw is located in the upper hose and not a black "T" then replace it also cause they have a very high failure rate.

 

Just get the heads planed, best $75 you will ever spend. Chances are they are a bit twisted as they are aluminum.

 

Given everything you've said, If it were mine, with budget limitations, I'd reassemble and drive it.

As you stated, "not sealing them" if you read around, the new set should be installed "clean".

I would advise, though, new bolts, as they are "stretch" bolts, probably good to torque only once.

luck,greg

 

Yes, the only way to check them is with a machinist's straight edge and feeler gauges.

 

Alright, I went ahead and took them to a shop and they were fine. I'm glad I did so I don't have to worry about it. It would have been dumb not to at least have them looked at... And now, the reassembly begins.

Mike, I did get the rave, the AB gasket set, new headbolts (why don't they just come in the kit?), new therm, belt, oil filter. I think I'm covered... There are a few things in the set that I cant figure out.

16 rubber O rings
16 rubber spacers (8 small, 8 large)
a couple of small gaskets that I don't recognize
and a few brass rings

May have some "oh duh" moments with some of it when I keep going but right now, I'm overwhelmed with the amount of little parts and bolts that are off my disco. I also thought that maybe some of it was specifically for range rovers. Idk.

I got the head gaskets on, the heads back on, bolts hand tight ready to be torqued. Tomorrow, I'll start looking back at my pics and the rave.

Thanks everyone for the help. I truly don't know what I'd do without this forum. Spend a couple grand I guess...