I know I need to post pics of her. And those are forthcoming.
For now a update and future plans..

Radiator leak turned out to not need solder. It was the fitting at the top right where the oil cooler connects to the radiator. Oil or Transmission. Not sure entirely. Nevertheless, there was stop leak pasty gunk trying its best to seal up the lack of a washer to seal the cooler at the big nut.
Cleaned it up and put in a copper washer and no leaky leaky.

Still have tranny cooler lines leaking at pressure fittings.

Still have power steering fluid leaking from either the box or the
lines themselves. Cleaned them once but waited too long to spot
the main source.

Window regulators still need to be replaced. I searched but could
not find the place with the updated regulators. Better than factory
style. Anyone know of who does those? I would rather not install
something that may eventually break down the road again.

Plan on doing the High Country front and rear bumpers. Will do the
defattening of the front in the mean time.

Added some used tires for $60 off craigslist. Pretty sweet deal considering
mine were bald and these are M+S with a winter type tread.

Seat pad on bottom of the drivers seat is completely packed down from
PO's and need to source a new pad. Any advice?

What does everyone use to clean the years of hand goo on their steering wheels? It is seriously hard to look at everyday. esp since it is not mine...

Also need to replace the battery. Have been looking at the optima, anything better for offroading?

I am also considering a gtg at my shop to hang out, drink some beverages and talk rovers. Any takers?

 

optima is the best battery for off-road, yellow or blue top if you plan on adding a winch

 

Definately plan on adding a winch. What CCA or are Yellow and Blue a set CCA?
I have only had a Red for regular automobiles.

 

Only difference between Optima Red Top and Yellow Top is the yellow is a deep cycle meaning it can be run down to nothing repeatedly without ill effects. The red top you can run all the way down about 3 times before it causes problems with the battery. Blue Tops are marine batteries and have deep cycle capability just like the yellow tops. Biggest difference between yellow and blue tops is the terminal/posts configuration.

When I replace the batteries in my Ford diesel I plan to run blue tops for the deep cycle and the slightly higher cranking amperage. For a Rover, even with a winch, the difference between yellow and blue isn't worth the price difference. But deep cycle is definitely the way to go with a winch.

BTW - Hi Country Offroad is no longer up in Evergreen. I was told the owner packed up shop and the family and moved back east.

 

Really? I thought he was the same as http://www.hcp4x4.com/
But I geuss not.. hmmm...
Thanks for the info on the battery.
Geuss there is no further info on the rest of the stuff. Call the dealer again?

 

Yes, High Country Off Road and High Country Performance 4x4 are 2 separate shops. High Country Performance is actually right next to JC's Rover's new shop near Hampden and Santa Fe. BTW, if you need a mechanic I highly recommend Jeff and his guys at JC's. Rob at MIT in Evergreen is also very good but I have only met Rob, he's never worked on my Rover so I can't comment on the quality of his work like I can JC's. Whatever you do stay away from the dealers.

This is the link for the upgraded window regulator rollers. For the price of a complete set to upgrade a front regulator it would be cheaper to buy a new regulator.
http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/...roducts_id=186

 

on the regulators, I epoxied my broken rollers back together about 4 years ago. I put the pieces back on the metal on the regulator and used a white 2 part plastic epoxy. I held them together with vise grips and turned them every few minutes to they wouldnt seize. This has lasted on the 3 I fixed. Cost me about $10 for the epoxy.

on the PS leak, please note that your system takes ATF in the reservoir, not power steering fluid. Cut off the old clamps and install new worm type hose clamps. You may still need new hoses due to deteriorated rubber, but it is a cheaper start.

Stay on CL for interior parts. not too many places to source foam unless you want to cut it yourself. I have also founf that the Armor all interior cleaner with Oxy clean works well on getting goo off the vinly. Just make sure and condition it after.

 

Excellent info! I truly appretiate it.

As for a mechanic, I am one. Have been doing it for over 20 years but do appretiate a referral. Never know when I need to consult a peer. Esp since I am still very new to Land Rover.

Have bought some parts from Land rover south here in denver, visor clip, front brake pad pin set (3 of 4 of mine were just gone! ) but otherwise have been sticking to CL. Colby at Columbia is a excellent source and I am planning on dealing with him on some interior parts. Had a slight issue with the sudden fixes on the radiator and missing pad pins.. I cannot believe 3 were just MISSING!! Anyone else had that problem or is it just me?

I am going to contact a local upholsterer I know to see if he can fab up a new seat cushion for me. Will report back with any info. Sucks sitting in a hole every day.

I may have to change plans on the bumpers. Not sure if shipping from the east coast is the right route. Perhaps it is time for me to finish learning how to weld.

Epoxying reg's sounds good and I am a resourceful person however I think I will start with new and reinforce. I thought someone already reengineered these things?