someone asked me about my cheap D2 CDL install. So here is some more info.
i used the nut and tab from a D1 CDL setup. took the nut to home depot matched it with two 8mm - 1.25 hex nuts ($1). I picked up a 13mm deep well socket (going to use an impact next time) from AutoZone ($4) and some JB Weld ($5) and the 4 piece 3/8" drive extension set from Harbor Freight ($7). (this step eliminated if you use an impact socket) I scratched the interior of the deep well socket with a file to scrape some of that chrome off cleaned it with some acetone. I put the tab down on the post, then the two nuts (two is all you can fit, going to use loctite to hold them in place) then filled the socket with JB weld leaving only ssmall open space at the top and bottom stuck the extension in there and cleaned up what came out then stuck the socket over the nuts made sure that was cleaned up (don't want to JB weld your CDL in the off position) I did leave it on the tab. As the JB was still soft i set up the extension how i wanted it to come thru the console. drilled the console and metal plate out accordingly and used some small pieces of wood to hold the extension in place while the JB weld dried over the course of 4 cold days. When it is done the top of the extension sits flush with the console and the rubber mat covers it.



i know this isn't everyones cup of tea but i like to keep things cheap and simple.

 

Can you post a couple of pics of your console and for us new guys can you explain the benefits of this mod. I want to try it just because it seems like a fun weekend project.

 

Nice, I'm planning on doing the same type of thing. Let me know if it ends up not working for some reason. So to engage it you pull the mat up and stick a socket on there? I was going to fashion some type of **** onto the extension but stopping it below the mat sounds like a better idea. What is the D1 tab you mention? (I'm guessing for the cable attachment?) Would I need one?

 

Trying to make sure I understand this portion correctly. The tab, is the tab from the D1 linkage, correct? This gives you the correct size/shape to fit on and turn the nipple/post, correct? So in the outcome of the JB Weld, you end up with the tab on the bottom, 2 nuts on top of the tab all JB Welded together and welded up into the open hex end of the socket, filled with JB weld and then the 3/8" drive extension welded in the top, that would then be connected/welded to the other extensions to get you up through the console. All the extensions JB Welded together and positioned through the console and supported in place while the JB Weld hardened.

Questions:

1) The tab, two nuts and bottom socket are all welded together with JB Weld, and you "wiped it clean". Did you pull this assembled portion off the nipple/post and wipe the nipple/post clean or what exactly? Just trying to make sure I understand how you made sure not to weld all this to the nipple/post. The idea would be that this socket/tab/nuts assembly fit in place and turn the nipple/post once welded together, but is not welded to the nipple/post, correct?

2) I have seen some of these types of installs using some 3/8" drive universals in the mix. I do not see any mention in your install, so did it all line straight up through the console where you wanted it?

3) Did you just cut the last extension at the top to extend the length you wanted at or above the console to accommodate a **** or handle to turn it?

 

yeah ill take some pics this weekend.

this is my second attempt. the first attempt i didnt use a two nuts, i only used the stock one, i also used a one tube type adhesive rather than a two tube epoxy. i also didnt give it time to set as i did it on a friday around 6 pm and then left at 6 am to go off roading. considering its been about 32 degrees out it was still too soft and came right apart that day on the trails. this time around it has had a full week to set and it is really on there now.

yes the tab is from a D1 linkage. and yes everything else in your opening statement is correct.

i cleaned the tab and post with acetone and let them dry i then put the tab and both nuts back on the post and tightened them down nice and hard. then i filled the socket head to toe with jb weld. leaving only a small amount of space on each end. stuck it on there so it overflowed out both ends. anything in crazy excess i wiped off as i didnt want the tab to be JB welded to the top of the TC case. the top of the post is exposed to JB weld that was inside the socket. yes.

Yes i did not use a universal although you very well could. since i did this once already i knew where i wanted it to sit, so i set it in that point to let the JB harden.

i didnt cut the extension. it was the perfect length.

 

That is awesome! Do you have pics from inside yet bro?

Thanks!

 

i do have pics. but im still working on the idea. i think im going to redo it with some loctite on the nuts so when you go to unlock it there is no chance of them wanting to come off the post and also using an impact socket rather than a stainless steel deep well. the JB weld holds better to the impact socket. Then i might use a universal joint so i don't have to bother setting the wobble extensions at the right bend. if the bend is not correct the lever will need room to swing to click the CDL on making a weak point.

the whole idea behind this is to eliminate as many possible failures as i can. direct on to the post is the way to go IMO.

 

just redid this last week. this time i used green loctite on the nuts, an impact universal 1/2" drive, 1/2" impact extension and some mroe JB weld. it held up for 2 days on some really rough trails including going under water and coated in mud. overall im very happy with it now. wouldnt change a thing.

 

Greg davis has a write up...

 

i have seen that before, he uses 2 u joints. its fancier than mine. but i don't have equipment to manufacture brackets no do i have welding equipment and such. for those who are interested here is the diagram from Greg Davis.