We are looking to buy a vehicle and after test driving a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2005 Chevy Trail Blazer and last a 2003 Land Rover Discovery SE , the Land Rover won hands down .. smoother ride, less miles, less money, no weird sounds when you turn the corner ( Jeep ) and the interior wasn't falling apart like the Jeep and Trail Blazer . My husband was sold on the solid feel of the Land Rover .
Question...After reading tons of reviews , am confused about the reliability of the Land Rover...is the 2003 really that bad ?

the 2003 has 86k miles , clean Car fax ( no accidents ), this is from a dealer so do not have maintenance records from previous owner. asking price was $8500 they came down to $7000. as we have another Land Rover available..
it is a 2001 Discovery Series 2..129k miles, asking $5000 OBO.. private seller so maintenance records should be available.

any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated

 

You need to check the vin range of the 2003 and make sure that it does not fall in the oil pump/timing cover failure production. If it does, ask if the motor has been replaced.

If it hasn't, at 86,000 miles it's probably still young enough to go boom but its also entirely possible that the motor is fine. I've got a 2003 and it's as reliable as you maintain it. I love it. If you do purchase it, you'll need to get the front drive shaft rebuilt. Check out the sticky threads and search feature on this forum. They'll tell you all you need to know.

You should also know that the 2003 is not CDL equipped(if that matters to you). I would take a look at the 2001 and see if the head gaskets were replaced and also see if has been well maintained in general.

 

Thank you , we are going to check into the 2001.

 

Hi. As a point of reference, I bought a 2001 Disco II SE about 6 months ago from a private seller (2nd owner) with 95K miles. Clean CarFax and some service records (was serviced regularly at dealer through approx. 60K miles). The car was in really good shape when I bought it, and drove great. Asking price was $6500 and I paid $5500.

I immediately performed the recommended maintenance for high mileage Rovers that you'll find on this site. Some I did, some I had done - total spend approximately $1500. I also bought a Tom Woods custom front drive shaft; as you've heard, the stock drive shaft can cause a catastrophic failure. Another $400 or so there, but I think well spent. I've done a few cosmetic things here and there, like applying Herculiner to fender flares and bumpers, swapping most light bulbs with LEDs, etc. Maybe another $300 dollars.

This past weekend, I had my first "significant" incident with the truck, in which the crank position sensor went bad, causing it to stall at idle. Battery was about shot too, so I replaced both for $300 parts and labor. Note that I used the advice on this forum to diagnose the problem and get back on the road (and vacation) in about 3 hours.

So, I'm into my Disco for about $8000 after 6 months. I also intend to replace the O2 sensors soon, which I figure I'll do myself after spending $250 in parts.

Having said all this, my Disco is one of my favorite vehicles I've ever owned. It is my daily driver (mileage be damned). I expect that it will require continuing care, which doesn't necessarily come cheap unless you're pretty handy as a mechanic. Certainly the maintenance and accessories for Jeeps are less expensive and more plentiful, respectively. But, the Rover is more unique and, when well-maintained, will take you anywhere you want to go (in comfort and style).

I'd check out the 2001 if I were you. Keep in mind that not many people are in the market for 8-10 year old trucks with spotty reliability issues and 12-14 mpg performance. It's definitely a buyer's market for these trucks so you should have a strong negotiating position.

Good luck!

DRW

 

Go to the tech section on the DI and DII pages and start reading.
Keep in mind that you MUST use premium gas, there are lots of little things that go wrong and give these trucks a bad rap.
Taking it to the dealer for all work will make you go broke in 6 months, you only need the dealer for electrical stuff.
The most common fail item is the crank position sensor, it controls engine spark and when it fails you will be dead in the water.
It is a $70 part and a hour or so DIY.
The front driveshaft is a $300 fix but if you wait until it fails it will cost you $7000 for a new transmission.
The throttle body heater is another common fail, $30 DIY.

 

Before test driving we looked under the hood,

1st red flag evidence of oil around the head gasket.
2nd ..listed description had rear a/c and new tires ...no rear a/c and only back tires were fairly new
3rd .. a/c did not cool very well
4th..shimmy at 50 mph
5th.. rough idle

ended the test drive and hubby is set on getting the 2003 and replacing the oil pump ..

thanks for the replies

 

The oil pump is not the problem though, it is the engine block thats the problem on the '03's.
The oil pump is housed inside the front engine cover ($1500) and it aligns with dowel pins, those pins were made out of alignment and this mis alignment causes the oil pump to wear out prematurely.
Replacing the front engine cover and oil pump is a temp fix, it will last about 60,000 miles or so IF that engine is a defective one.
Honestly, it is has made it 86k with no problems odds are you are fine.
Supposedly most blew up before 10,000 miles.
Also, no 5w-30 or 10w-30 motor oil in these engines, they do NOT like it.
10w-40 is a good all around oil, there are better options but we can cover that later.
Make sure you ask lots of questions, oil leaks are common not usually not a big deal.
The valve covers are the most common and can be fixed for about $5.

 

records show regular maintenance up to 47k miles..which I know a carfax will not show all maintenance records

5459 miles ..fuel filter cap was replaced
14,126 ..wheel bearing/hub replaced, rear brake pads replaced/ABS checked
18,285...front brakes replaced, ABS system checked
28,119..ABS system checked
46,556..engine/powertrain computer/module checked, anti theft keyless system checked, recommended maintenance, light bulbs replaced
47,717..rack and pinion replaced


that is all that is listed on the Car Fax..and all the maintenance records available..oil was just changed July 2011..when we looked at the engine it had been detailed..it was raining so we didn't look underneath
we drove it for about 25 minutes..then took another test drive about 40 minutes later for another 20 minutes. Engine sounded great, smooth ride..drove like a brand new vehicle.

Husband and son are in love with this vehicle, I have been trying to stress the low mpg, and maintenance costs but am not making a dent in their wanting this vehicle. My husband was a crew chief on F-16's and A-10s..so he can use the tools to work on a car but has no desire to or much knowledge or cars beyond changing spark plugs.

Anything in specific I can look for tomorrow before the deal is final ?

thanks

 

I got my 03 less than a month ago and it also has the vin# within the range. It has 90k on it and I paid 4k for it, no problems other than the slight oil leak and I had to put a new driveshaft in it. I have all the parts/fluids for the high mileage service and will be doing that over the next 2 weeks.

 

You might want to check around your area for some good independent rover mechanics. Your husband sounds mechanically inclined, are you saying he just doesn't know much about Rovers or cars in general?

I would make sure all of the electronics work if you didn't already, horn, cruise control, sunroofs, etc..

The transfer case likes to leak on these things so I would check that too. Doesn't mean you shouldn't buy it but you might be able to knock a few dollars off.

Again if you do buy prepare to get the drive shaft rebuilt and be ready for new head gaskets. They may not fail for a while but they will eventually once you get into the 100,000's. Don't let that deter you, they may not fail for a long time but it's just something that happens to these trucks. Also you should change your coolant to an aluminum safe brand like Peak. The dexcool that comes with the truck isn't the best stuff to use.

Always watch the gauges!