Well the other day I went to get the oil changed and the mechanic tells me that my "rear main" is leaking!!! Needs to be changed ASAP!!! Leave the truck here and we'll do it for you!!!
I almost got a heart attack!!! Truck only has 75,000 miles!!!
After I got home, I went to check for myself and it turns out it is drivers side valve cover is leaking and dripping down around tranny!!! Frickin' crooks!! REAR MAIN eh!!!
I took a look while I was under the truck and it turns out that front crank seal is leaking pretty bad as well. Fan is blowing it all under the engine.
I need to attack one thing at at time.
My questions:
1. How many hours do you guys think it takes to change the valve covers?
2. Do I need to recharge AC (looks like the compressor needs to come off) after I change valve covers?
3. How many hours to change front crank seal?

I got pretty good mechanicl skills but I don't want to bite more than I can chew at one time.

Thanks guys!!

 

SLOW DOWN !!!

Before you jump on the spend money and time band wagon... you need to clean up the engine with 4 cans or engine brite and a rag..... no water... DO NOT USE HOSE!!!!!

after the engine is clean watch for leaks and order a new upper intake gasket from AB,RN or motorcars

when the gasket comes in take a saturday and pull the upper intake bolts and slide the intake a couple inches to either side to tighten up the valve covers, no gaskets to replace........

after the covers are done, change the intake gasket and tighten the bolts.... then watch for leaks again and don't believe anything a a NON ROVER worthy shop tells you

 

There's no need to discharge the A/C system. If you have the stupid plastic serpentine guard on there, take it off. Take off the belt, and remove the 4 bolts holding the compressor to the mount. The lines are flexible enough to be able to move it out of the way while you work. I got mine off in less than 5 minutes when I bypassed the leaky intake heater. As for valve covers, give cleaning the old ones off and reinstalling them a try. They look like formed rubber so you shouldn't need to replace them unless they are torn. Look for the cleanest point in the oil leak and that is where it is coming from. It could be a leaky intake valley pan gasket. The front main will be nothing less than a complete pain in the kiester... at best you'll have to remove the fan, shroud, front pulley, harmonic balancer, and if you're good you can probably pick out the old seal and install a new one. Have you checked your PCV valve and crankcase breather?

 

First just do the covers

 

Once again, this is definitely the best forum when it comes to help!!!!

I try to clean the engine (every 3 months or so) so the engine on the first look is really clean (at the sight of view) but between the firewall and the engine is where the mess is.

Valve cover (driver side) is leaking really bad. I re-tighten them every oil change and the driver side always leaked.....right behind the engine. So I think I am going to to change them after all. I just had enough hahahaha!!

PVC valve and the crankcase breather look good for now. It is the crank seal. Looks pretty messy under as well.

But from your experience guys, how many hours does the "book" say for the covers and for the front crank seal? I just want to know what to expect.

Again....thanks!!!

 

Go to your local do it yourself car wash and power scrubb the entire engine, top and bottom with cold water, don't use chemicals except on the really bad spot.
Then before replacing the v/covers, try tightening them with an 8 mm, 12 point, 1/4" drive, the 2 outer bolts usually just vibrate loose.

 

Hello Mike,
I did this a few times (learned about this trick from you guys 2 years ago ), and this does work but however my leak is on the driver's side, back side of the engine. I am not sure if the gasket is cut or what not but it doesn't work anymore . It did however work in the begining! Right now the bolts are tight and the leak is still there.
This is why I want to install a new set of gaskets and go from the begining. Retighten on every oil change.......
Soooo, what do you think......how many hours should I remove from my other chores around the house and schedule to the valve covers job hahahaha?????
Thanks Mike,

Boris

 

How good are you? Have you had the valve covers off before? If it is your first time through plan it to take a whole Saturday. If you are decent at wrenching it is a about a 4 hour job with coffee breaks If you are in need of a tuneup this would be a good time to do your plugs and wires.

 

That is terrible advice. It is the exact opposite of what you should do. Chemicals will eat the seals and cause more leaks. Only use water to clean your engine. You can go to a car wash ang keep the high pressure away from the alt, coil packs and ecu, but on a D2, you can spray whatever you want.

To the OP, have you checked to make sure the separator in the top of the passenger valve cover is clean and clear? If the PCV system is plugged, you will leak.

The front main isn't too bad, but if you are not mechanical, you may want to let a shop do it. You can download the Rave manual in my sig, it is free and will show you what to do, step by step.

 

Check around on the front mail seal. I was quoted $250 to $300. Premier Rover (no relation) here in San Diego did it for $110 parts and labor. Hasn't leaked a drop since, the front seal that is. As for the rest of the vehicle...........a drip here and there and over there and some from there, well you get the idea.

As for cleaning solutions, I like Simple Green, it is environmentally friendly, non toxic and won't damage anything under the hood. Best to get your engine warmed up, not hot, use a squirt bottle, soak things down, rinse repeat as necessary. Until I get my head gasket/valley pan gasket issue resolved, I spray and rinse every weekend. (I can't stand drips in my driveway)

Also, what year is your vehicle and how many miles.

Phil

1999 DI
2001 DII