Would anyone happen to have an extra ecu lying around they could check?

 

If reading with plug disconnected as previous post indicated have you checked the other side for a comparison? Looking at wiring diagram do not see a plug wire that goes directly to ground just to ECU and power.

New sensors are sometimes faulty, no experience myself with a bad one but plenty of threads reporting bad new sensors.
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Yes the drivers side only has one constant 12v and a computer controlled ground.

 

That's what you should have. That's why when you first said there was 12v on both wires I thought you were talking about when it's plugged in. Plugged in with just the key on, it should have 12v on both heater wires.
I would say someone has either spliced the control wire into a power source or there are some melted or chafed wires that have touched together. I have seen this happen a few times. Normally when it happens, it's because the wires have melted on the exhaust. Or sometimes get routed wrong and rub on a drive shaft or the frame. The problem is, it will result in the driver being destroyed because it should never have a direct 12v with no resistance.

 

With all due respect, I already said that lol. I'm a have a wire that is getting 12v all the time, that definitely shouldn't be. I have checked the wire up until it joins the main loom on the firewall, and from there it has a strait shot too the ecu. So I'm going to do some probing around while the computer is out to be sure that this is in fact a shorted wire problem and not an ecu prob.

However It would be really cool if someone had a spare ece lying around that they could get a pic of so I can rule out this crazy solder joint as the culprit.

I do appreciate the input guys, wiring is frustrating for me and having outside support is nice.

 

I'm sorry, I must have misread something there. So the wire is okay all the way to the ECU. You may have to remove the control wire pin from the connector and test the wire and the ECU separately. You would have to do this with the sensor unplugged, the ECU plugged in and the key on. If you can't get the pin out of the connector easily, you can cut it and test both sides. Just make sure you leave enough wire to solder and shrink wrap it back together.
If the voltage is only on the ECU side with the wire removed, that would 100% confirm, the ECU has an internal problem.

 

I've already cut the control wire a couple inches away from the pin to rule out a bad plug (I thought there may have been corrosion or a meltdown inside the connector.)

So you are saying to plug the ecu in and probe the control wire near the ecu plug? Or are you saying to cut the wire a couple inches from the ecu and then check the ecu for 12v out? (This makes more sense to me)

 

Nevermind I get what you are saying. OK I wil try to get the pin out so I don't have to cut it. Will report back, thanks

 

If there is 12v coming out of the ECU, there's a problem. That pin should either be open or grounded when the driver is on. That should not put out any power. If it doesn't have power on it, check the control wire itself. If the sensor is unplugged, the wire should read 0v.
If you already cut it, you don't need to take the pin out of the connector. Just test the sensor wire and the ECU.

 

to clarify, i cut the wire near the o2 plug, not the ecu plug. I just unwrapped the loom all the way to the firewall and followed the control wire al the way to the firewall and there is absolutely noting wrong with it. i will try to get the pin out of the ecu connector but the wiring is in an awful place to try to solder the wire if i have to cut it so I'm really hoping i don't need to. obviously to be 100% sure i need to rule out the wire itself but ill be damned if i haven't checked every inch of it from the o2 connector to the ecu connector.