Here is the new family adventure rig.
As you can see its already set up pretty well.
arb bumper
hella lights that need to be wired back up
Super winch
265.75.16 bfg ko2
Home built roof rack and rear ladder

it's already got diff guards and I think this is a serviceable front drive shaft (tell me if I'm wrong im a noob.)

I'm also thinking there is some sort of lift.



I'm glad for this collective of information.
I have three amigos issue but it goes away as soon as I get wheel slip and then the traction control kicks in and the other lights turn off as well.
I'm also getting a check engine with codes p1175 and 1172.
Any thoughts on this would be awesome.

Our family has already been enjoying this rig here in Northern Utah.



Glad to join this community.
-Andrwplsn

 

Good looking DII welcome to the forum

 

Nice! And welcome, of course. That driveshaft looks like it’s serviceable, and you probably want to service it right away because who knows how long it’s been since it was last done. The codes you are getting refer to a rich air fuel mixture on both sides of the engine (one code for each side). Check the easy stuff first such as air and vacuum leaks anywhere downstream of the MAF. After that I would replace the front oxygen sensors it’s an easy service and probably overdue anyway. Plus you’ll get a nice bump in fuel economy (if that solves the issue).

 

Looks like my maf is pretty dirty. The air box lid clips are broken off on the maf side. Will have to check other vacuum leaks. I'm guessing its o2 sensors.

 

Will do. My maf also looks pretty dirty as does the air filter. Its time for a bunch of routine service that I'm sure has been neglected. The clips that connect the air box lid to the maf are also broken. Could this lead to any codes? I have to get the check engine light off for it to pass emissions.

 

Perhaps, the clips are there to ensure an airtight connection between the air filter and the MAF tube. If they are damaged air may be leaking in which means it’s bypassing the air filter. The dirty air could, over time, damage the MAF which would then result in the MAF giving false readings causing the fuel mixture to be off. As I understand it MAF cleaning is a little tricky and could damage the MAF, but a new MAF is expensive so it might be worth trying.

The whole system works like this: The MAF is a heated wire which is held at a precise temperature, when more air (or colder air, which is more dense and therefore has more oxygen) flows over the wire it cools down and requires more voltage to keep at temperature. This voltage level is interpreted by the computer to compute the volume of oxygen entering the engine and therefore how much fuel to inject for good combustion. However, it’s never quite perfect which is where the front O2 sensors come in. If the O2 sensors sense the presence of oxygen the computer will increase fuel delivery to burn up the extra oxygen. This adjustment is called the “fuel trim” but it can only compensate so much (usually 10%) before engine codes are triggered. If you get a code scanner you can actually see the fuel trim levels in real time as you drive the truck.

Aging oxygen sensors tend to falsely indicate “lean” (too much oxygen, not enough fuel) burn conditions causing the computer to think it needs more fuel and therefore throw off fuel trim levels, which is why I recommended replacing them. It’s possible that the MAF or O2 sensors or a combination of both could be causing your codes. My course of action would be:

1) Inspect all of the air tubes to and vacuum tubes for air leaks.
2) Replace the front O2 sensors, I found a good deal on Rockauto.com for mine, I just replaced them 2 months ago.
3) Try cleaning the MAF
4) Replace the MAF, might be able to find one off a junker Disco or P38 Range Rover for cheap or buy new for piece of mind.

 

SG diff guard, nice!

 

Oh yeah, that's not good, that part should be perfectly clean so a lot of junk it bypassing the air filter and getting on the MAF, in the combustion chamber, and perhaps fouling the O2 sensors. It might also be introducing some turbulence to the airflow which makes the MAF less effective (the MAF requires smooth, laminar flow, to work well which is why there is that honeycomb looking grid in place). If you can't replace the clips I would at least run a small bead of gasket maker around the outside to seal it up for the time being. Might be able to find a used airbox off of a junker with the clips intact (at least I think they are on the airbox side. Not sure if they are integral to the airbox, might be able to just yank them off if you find one.

 

Nice looking Dll, congrats.

 

Finally changed out my 02 sensors. I did all 4 with bosch since I was under there. Sealed my airbox lid to the maf with some rtv and greased my front driveshaft. Do the serviceable front driveshafts only have 2 grease points? Thats all I could find while under there. I also found the at one point in this discos life some one installed a pull/push style lever for the center diff lock that sits along the frame on the passenger side. They also installed a white light under the rear bumper shining straight down wired in with the rear fogs. Odd.