hi all,
just took a 1997 disco 1 SE on a trade and really wanna fix all the little issues before really taking it out in the Boonies'or OHV trails. i did search the forum and ..... well the front sunroof motor spins but the roof doesn't budge (probably the plastic cog, right?), the abs light is on (common), the brake light (red light when parking brake is on) flashes on once in a while during my commute and i have a squeling brake (sensor warning the pads are bad????), and most important the diff lock 4x4/ 4x2 selector is frozen. i really only have concerns w/ the diff lock but can't find a breakdown or writeup on how to "lube" and free it up. also can't determine where it needs attention (underside of truck or under console?) any assistance will be appreciated.
i'll post some pics once i have the time to play instead of repair the L.R.
jj

 

First off, those sunroofs suck. They leak, they bang around when driving and really provide no significant air flow. I took the frames out, ran a bead of clear silicone around them and left the switches unplugged, problems solved. ABS light is most likely the reluctor pick-up for the wheel speed sensor or the sensor itself. Red brake light- check brake fluid level and operation of parking brake. if both ok, it's the brake fluid level sensor (I unplugged mine and just keep an eye on things). Diff selector- buy a can of PB Blaster, spray it on the linkage to the t-case and wait and hour, respray and it should break loose. PB Blaster is awesome, it will eat through any corrosion and is an awesome lubricant.

 

The Discovery is a full time 4x4. No 4x2 option. From what I have read the linkage for the CDL rusting in place is common if it is not used. You can get under the truck and start at the transfer case with some penetrating fluid or similar and lubricate all the joints in the linkage. If that doesn't work you'll have to replace the linkage. For a D1, the linkage is about $150. Atlantic British is an excellent source for parts. www.roverparts.com is their website.

The sunroof probably needs the tracks replaced if the motor is turning. I am fighting that same thing on mine right now. The ABS light indicates that at least one wheel sensor is bad. Replace them all and be done. The brake light coming on sounds like a short or loose connection somewhere.

It sounds like you got a pretty typical LR that is going to need some maintenance. I have noticed that a lot of people rather than fixing things on these vehicles trade them off for something newer that is cheaper to fix.

 

http://home.twcny.rr.com/eeibooks/ro...codifflock.htm
If your brake pads are thin enough that they are sqealing then your brake fluid is low. Replace the brake pads and then the fluid level willbe fine.
I bet that the brake light comes on when you stop or turn corners.
The sun roof will be more of a hassle to fix than it is worth.
You MUST use premium gas, just in case you didnt know that already.

 

thanx for the info guys,
spike, i've heard of the premium vs. compression ratio argument so i've begun using mid grade w/ the octane booster every few tanks. sunroof is last on the list (i'd keep it shut if i had a roof rack....!!!), and the light winks on every once in a while (mostly turning or coming to a stop on inclines).
british and AK, unfortunaltely i think the shifter bottom is "broken" not sure until i take the console off but it has free movement like it isn't attached at all!!! i hear that is what happens when the linkage rusts and u "force" it.
will update later when i tear into it all!!! brakes first (thank goodness i ripped off those stupid lug caps they were trashed!!!)

 

I was told never to use anything but premium...not even mid-grade. I figured out the cost difference between filling my tank with regular unleaded and premium...it's only like 5 bucks or so.

 

Using Mid-Grade (89 octane) and then adding a $3 bottle of octane booster is more expensive than using premium. And to add that octane boosters only add on average .02 octane points, sooo, 89 octane plus .02 is 89.02 octane. So you are wasting your money.

There is a good write up on here about those lug nuts, but to keep it short, when you use a impact wrench to put the wheels back on and you over tourqe the lugd they "stretch" and then you cannot get the OEM tire tool on them. Leaves you stranded.

 

yep, after trying to level the truck w/ some spring spacers i noticed that the lugz were odd sizes and spun free when they seemed to be tight. lo and behold the covers were trash and i tore the covers off every one and use a 3 foot bar and a 1 1/16 socket! will be getting a hi-lift jack soon, for the times i'm not near home/shop and need to lift it. heck, i don't even know if this truck has a jack and tool set (where are they located??)

-and the 4 hi/ lo shifter is probably broken where it selects hi/lo not side to side??? will research further, but i know front to back the shifter moves freely!!!!

 

The jack is under the hood, the tire tool is supposed to be under the back seat. Mine was missing, so I carry a 1/2" breaker bar and socket to fit the lugs, 6 point socket and I think it is a 1-1/16".

The Center Diff Lock (CDL) shifter is supposed to move side to side as well as front to back. It may be broken.
www.atlanticbritish.com
www.roverlandparts.com

 

any way to tell if i have successfully engaged the differential??? or maybe what would be the proper way to engage it and any surefire way to tell if it is engaged or a surefire way to tell if it is not? i saw a post on a disco gen II but spinning out on a gravel road by myself and observing the wheels spin would be impossible! seems that when i push the shifter far to the left (driver's side) and push it forward or back it seems to stay in a "track" and it takes effort to push it back to the right (passenger) side but on that side i get no "contact" or tension/ etc. maybe my lo/ hi is broken and the diff lock works??? i don't get a light or signal on the dash, ha still learning about this thing!