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New pads, and now no brakes and pedal to the floor.

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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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Tony Crosland's Avatar
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Question New pads, and now no brakes and pedal to the floor.

Hi, I recently replaced my brake pads all round due to wear. Using a G clamp and a bar, I pushed the cylinders back in the callipers. This was tight but they went in. With all new pads fitted I thought I would have perfect brakes. Oh how I was wrong. Now I have next to no braking and my foot goes to the floor. I've tried the 2 man bleed but there seems to be no pressure in the lines to any wheel. Where do I go from here? I can't flush the system because the system won't take any fluid in, and it won't push fluid or air out of the bleeders.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 03:55 PM
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Have you replaced brake pads before?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 04:00 PM
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Hi, replaced pads on many cars before, but never one with abs. Always used pipe grips or G clamps, and never had issues like this before.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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never push old brake fluid back into the system, you should have just released the bleeder screw to push the old fluid out. Take the bleeder screws out and see if they will gravity bleed...2 cents.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 04:18 PM
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I can have a go at gravity bleeding, but when I was trying to bleed earlier, there was no pressure at the wheels at all. Hardly any air or fluid run run through the pipe at all. In fact it looked to be sucking the fluid back into the system sometimes.
If there is no pressure, then is it the master cylinder not working, or the abs module not letting the pressure get past?
Should the abs module let fluid past under normal circumstances with the engine off?
If the pedal goes almost straight to the floor, is there anything to give the pressure?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 04:54 PM
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Have your buddy get in an pump the brake pedal while you crack open a line going INTO the ABS modulator. See if you get any fluid.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by agthird
never push old brake fluid back into the system, you should have just released the bleeder screw to push the old fluid out. Take the bleeder screws out and see if they will gravity bleed...2 cents.
It's a very, very common technique to just drain a bit of fluid, leave the reservoir lid off, and compress the caliper with a clamp of giant pair of channel lock pliers. I've done it or seen it done to probly a hundred cars and trucks with no ill effects.

Anytime you open the bleeder, you'll likely introduce air. If you just compress the caliper, bleeding shouldn't be necessary.

That said - maybe the abs system on these trucks doesn't like that technique. I'm a little worried that some valve in the modulator is blown.
 

Last edited by dr. mordo; Feb 25, 2013 at 05:31 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 03:45 AM
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Thank you all for your suggestions so far, but none of these seem to be working. Tried pumping fluid out at the modulator, and yes there was fluid from both pipes going in. Unfortunately there is still no pressure anywhere in the system.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 06:18 AM
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You must take care when compressing a caliper on ABS vehicles, you should open the bleeder or take the chance of blowing the ABS module by forcing fluid back threw it.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2013 | 06:43 AM
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Well Dr. No it doesn't look like its common practice for this poor guy. Tony take the cap off the master cylinder and do the two man bleed method start with the farthest caliper and work back to the front. It may take several rounds of bleeding before you get the brake pedal back. Make sure you top off the master cylinder once you start getting fluid at the caliper. When I changed the master cylinder on my truck I didn't bench bleed it so it took several rounds of two man bleeding.
 
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