New purchase tune up info help request
#1
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Hi guys,
I tried doing a search but didn't see this question exactly. My situation, I just bought a '00 Discovery IIthat has the CEL on. I did a OBD scan but since there were several codes on but the truck runs okay, I'm a bit lost on where to start. So, I'm going to do a new-to-me tune up. Great, now where to start? Here's my thinking so far...
1) New battery as the old one is obviously unloved and has boiled over.
2) New wires.
3) No new plugs as the mechanic at dealer said he replaced them when the Disco came in. I believe him because he also told me that they only replaced 2 of the 8 plug wires.
4) No new oil, it was just done.
Okay, here's where I'm asking for help... What are some other good LR tune up suggestions? There's 103K on the odo and unknown maintenance on the diffs, tranny, t-case, etc.. There's no apparent oil leaking on the axle diffs or at the brakes, so the seals look good there. There is oil coming down and around the back of the engine and trans bellhousing. I don't *think* that is a mainbearing seal or anything, it looks to be a smaller amount such as valve cover leakagethere's some of that from under the driver's-side valve cover.
Okay, that's about it for my first newb post. I look forward to any help and to getting to know you guys!
Thanks,
Gabe
I tried doing a search but didn't see this question exactly. My situation, I just bought a '00 Discovery IIthat has the CEL on. I did a OBD scan but since there were several codes on but the truck runs okay, I'm a bit lost on where to start. So, I'm going to do a new-to-me tune up. Great, now where to start? Here's my thinking so far...
1) New battery as the old one is obviously unloved and has boiled over.
2) New wires.
3) No new plugs as the mechanic at dealer said he replaced them when the Disco came in. I believe him because he also told me that they only replaced 2 of the 8 plug wires.
4) No new oil, it was just done.
Okay, here's where I'm asking for help... What are some other good LR tune up suggestions? There's 103K on the odo and unknown maintenance on the diffs, tranny, t-case, etc.. There's no apparent oil leaking on the axle diffs or at the brakes, so the seals look good there. There is oil coming down and around the back of the engine and trans bellhousing. I don't *think* that is a mainbearing seal or anything, it looks to be a smaller amount such as valve cover leakagethere's some of that from under the driver's-side valve cover.
Okay, that's about it for my first newb post. I look forward to any help and to getting to know you guys!
Thanks,
Gabe
#2
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Middle of Caribbean
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Here is Disco Mike's list, if you have any questions shout.
This list may differ between DI & DII.
This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service or a high mileage used truck, the way Disco Mike does it.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001
1 Air filter
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W gear oil
2 Qts of Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt if not yet replaced
2 Bottles of SeaFoam
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Flush the coolant system
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
This list may differ between DI & DII.
This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service or a high mileage used truck, the way Disco Mike does it.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001
1 Air filter
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W gear oil
2 Qts of Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt if not yet replaced
2 Bottles of SeaFoam
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Flush the coolant system
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
#3
#6
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Actually, the mechanic was cool in telling me about that. The owners of the lot this Disco ended up on were not LR knowledgeable. But, I got the rig at a good price and it seems mechanically solid. I think they paid almost nothing for it on trade in and they did nothing to it before I bought it.The interior still smelled of cigarettes and there were still butts in the ashtray, that's how little they did to this. Based on the mechanic's statement, this is what they said they did: replaced the thermostat, replaced the oil, and replaced the front rotors and all-four sets of pads. I think they got the CEL and 3 Amigos and said screw it, get this off the lot ASAP. And along I came, being dumb enough to buy a rig that I didn't understand on the hopes that I'd figure it out!
I just have to deal with some electrons and operating temps and we're good to goI think! I've now got a set of wires and plugs coming from roverparts.com. I got a belt and K&N filter at the same time. I've got to source some OAT coolant locally and deal with the coolant return linewhat's up with the plastic elbow?! Cheesy. And, thanks to this forum, when the key broke off the fob I was ready with the info to get a local replacement and not get f'ed by the dealeryay!!
Anyway, here's my first 3 fixes:
1. Coolant flush, OAT replacement and *fingers crossed* that water sound and overheating goes away.
2. Plugs and wires and *fingers crossed* the CEL goes away.
Not what I consider a "crisis," but something I need to work on because they're annoying,the 3 Amigos.I'm not too worried because the hubs look okay, so it's either the ABS sensor or (more likely) the pad/rotor squeal that I'm hearing that's inducing 'em. I feel confident it's the pads because 1) I can hear them and 2) I'm sure the dealer bought the cheapest set available.
I just have to deal with some electrons and operating temps and we're good to goI think! I've now got a set of wires and plugs coming from roverparts.com. I got a belt and K&N filter at the same time. I've got to source some OAT coolant locally and deal with the coolant return linewhat's up with the plastic elbow?! Cheesy. And, thanks to this forum, when the key broke off the fob I was ready with the info to get a local replacement and not get f'ed by the dealeryay!!
Anyway, here's my first 3 fixes:
1. Coolant flush, OAT replacement and *fingers crossed* that water sound and overheating goes away.
2. Plugs and wires and *fingers crossed* the CEL goes away.
Not what I consider a "crisis," but something I need to work on because they're annoying,the 3 Amigos.I'm not too worried because the hubs look okay, so it's either the ABS sensor or (more likely) the pad/rotor squeal that I'm hearing that's inducing 'em. I feel confident it's the pads because 1) I can hear them and 2) I'm sure the dealer bought the cheapest set available.
#7
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DO NOT use a K&N air filter, you WILL be buying a new MAF if you do.
DO NOT overheat the engine, you will drop a cylinder sleeve and the engine will be toast.
You have a air pocket in the cooling system, when they replaced the t-stat they did not properly bleed the system.
Magnecor or Land Rover plug wires are what is recommended, store brand wires will go bad inside of a month.
I use E3 sparkplugs, Iridium plugs are also great.
Whenever you buiy a used car ALWAYS assume that nothing has ever been done to it.
DO NOT overheat the engine, you will drop a cylinder sleeve and the engine will be toast.
You have a air pocket in the cooling system, when they replaced the t-stat they did not properly bleed the system.
Magnecor or Land Rover plug wires are what is recommended, store brand wires will go bad inside of a month.
I use E3 sparkplugs, Iridium plugs are also great.
Whenever you buiy a used car ALWAYS assume that nothing has ever been done to it.
#8
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ORIGINAL: vader wagon
I've got to source some OAT coolant
Anyway, here's my first 3 fixes:
1. Coolant flush, OAT replacement and *fingers crossed* that water sound and overheating goes away.
2. Plugs and wires and *fingers crossed* the CEL goes away.
Not what I consider a "crisis," but something I need to work on because they're annoying, the 3 Amigos. I'm not too worried because the hubs look okay, so it's either the ABS sensor or (more likely) the pad/rotor squeal that I'm hearing that's inducing 'em. I feel confident it's the pads because 1) I can hear them and 2) I'm sure the dealer bought the cheapest set available.
I've got to source some OAT coolant
Anyway, here's my first 3 fixes:
1. Coolant flush, OAT replacement and *fingers crossed* that water sound and overheating goes away.
2. Plugs and wires and *fingers crossed* the CEL goes away.
Not what I consider a "crisis," but something I need to work on because they're annoying, the 3 Amigos. I'm not too worried because the hubs look okay, so it's either the ABS sensor or (more likely) the pad/rotor squeal that I'm hearing that's inducing 'em. I feel confident it's the pads because 1) I can hear them and 2) I'm sure the dealer bought the cheapest set available.
What color is it???
OK this is a good enough place as any to Hash out the Organic Acid Technology pros and cons... (OAT)
Personally I dont like the stuff, DII's are renowned for going through Head Gaskets, and OAT coolant is Renowned for Eating Head Gaskets..
Coincedence???
Basicly if OAT isnt properly maintained (changing it often) its PH will get all screwy and it will start to eat Gasket Material.
Get that thing flushed and get some new fluid in there...
And change it regularly....
Car companies started using OAT fluid in order to get "Emissions Credits" or something Ridiculous like that. It is Non-Toxic , so they are encouraged to use it and it goes as .5 of a point on the good side of some equasion that works out how much enviormental damage they are doing building the car.
Not because it is better at cooling your engine.
************************************************** **************************************
ORIGINAL: Spike555
DO NOT use a K&N air filter, you WILL be buying a new MAF if you do.
DO NOT overheat the engine, you will drop a cylinder sleeve and the engine will be toast.
You have a air pocket in the cooling system, when they replaced the t-stat they did not properly bleed the system.
Magnecor or Land Rover plug wires are what is recommended, store brand wires will go bad inside of a month.
I use E3 sparkplugs, Iridium plugs are also great.
Whenever you buiy a used car ALWAYS assume that nothing has ever been done to it.
DO NOT use a K&N air filter, you WILL be buying a new MAF if you do.
DO NOT overheat the engine, you will drop a cylinder sleeve and the engine will be toast.
You have a air pocket in the cooling system, when they replaced the t-stat they did not properly bleed the system.
Magnecor or Land Rover plug wires are what is recommended, store brand wires will go bad inside of a month.
I use E3 sparkplugs, Iridium plugs are also great.
Whenever you buiy a used car ALWAYS assume that nothing has ever been done to it.
And "Burping the System" will get rid of the Waterfall behind your Dashboard
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