I only ask because I managed to confuse the order that I pulled them off. I've read that you want to put the push rods back in the same location that they came from as they each make unique contact with the rocker arms. Is it best that I order a new set of 16 (70 bucks)?

Or can I just clean up the old ones and disregard putting them in their original home?

 

 

and do I need to lap my valves or is that more of a "well while you have the heads off" type of thing. This Rover ran and sounded flawless before I disassembled it (well minus coolant flowing out the firewall side of the engine from the blown HG)

 

I just finished my fist HG job and didn't touch the valves because mine, like yours, was running great before disassembly. I did manage to tag my lifter rods though. I may just go ahead and spend the $70 in rods. It surely wouldn't be cool if you put it back together only to have a tick that wasn't there before hand. I greased both ends of the rods before I reinstalled. Helps them stay in place better while installing.

 

Oh but what I was saying about the valves. Mine runs great just like before other than small fuel leak I believe is coming from the fuel rail/injectors..

 

 

You can test your fuel rails and injectors as one unit while connecting/disconnecting 2 wires from a 9 volt battery to 1 injector while spraying carb cleaner into the fuel rail input. Repeat for the other 7 injectors. An injector stuck open will leak or spray with the battery disconnected. Replace that injector.

...an injector that doesnt spray when connected to 9 volts should also be replaced or rebuilt.




likwise, you can test your valves by spraying carb cleaner into the exhaust and intake air ports, then looking for leaks out of the valves. Lap any that leak. Retest. Lap any that leak, etc.

 

Rover push rods are all the same. You dont need new ones. Clean them up, look for straightness. Inspect the ends.

 

As mentioned, inspect for straightness ,equal length, and equal wear on the ends. If all good, then all is good to go. If not, check back for further steps.

 

Those 2 headbolts are easiest reached with a shallow/standard depth swivel socket, 16mm, and you'll want 1/2" drive to break them loose.
If you add a u-joint to a regular socket, the 2 pieces combined are too tall, and the bend contacts the firewall.
You can buy a socket for around $10 on ebay if you don't have one, and it'll save alot of headache and arm power.