Installed a new Nissen radiator replacing the original 2003. New genuine LR hoses and gray 180 thermostat. New aluminum Y and T junctions. Everything went in smooth. Did the standard Prestone 20 min flush before swap. Running Peak Global 50/50. Just like the Legend DiscoMike and Spike used to recommend, from back in the day.
Still running 206 to 220 with AC on in 96 degree heat in Denver. I use a ScanGuage to monitor temperatures. When temps hit 220 I crank the heat to Hi and run till it drops to 195. Not the best way to stay cool. in 90 degree heat.
What are my options inline thermo mod? Temps do come down quickly, when back in the throttle. Have bled it about 3x. Only experiencing these temps in stop and go traffic. Mostly running 198-206 except in traffic.. A/C fan is working normally when temps hit 200F. Been working on this Rover rover since 2007, I know my way around it. No leaks, but maybe some more air to work out. Water Wetter added.

 

did it happen to be way over 90 when you saw those temps? Both my discos with the inline mod will handle maybe 100+ ambient once you hit 90 degrees plus. I don't see close to 220 ever though.

 

Fan clutch replaced???

 

You need inline thermostat

 

Fan has good resistance to spin when cool. I think that means it is working normally. Is that correct?

 

Yes, about 93 air temp and Rover saw about 99 from heater controls

 

An incomplete bleed will result in those temps. Ambient air temps over 90 cause higher temps for me too, with the 180... But never to 220. Those are more like stock thermostat temps. I'd be tempted to put it in a pot of water on the stove to see exactly what temp it opens at... Mislabeled stats have been sort of common in the past years.

Also a good way to check your bleed is to open the screw when the engine is cold... If coolant isn't right to the top of the bleed screw hole you have found some air. Rather than bleed again just add some coolant right into the bleed hole. You may need to do this a few days in a row until it no longer needs any extra coolant. When I last bled I did this and shaved 10 degrees off what I got from the original bleed. No inclines or lifting of the bottle necessary. Just do it with the engine stone cold.

 

2nd on incomplete bleed.

I've expieneced this a few times. Very frustrating. Keep trying all the suggestions from the forum.

1. Raise the coolant tank and remove the bleeder screw
2. Bring the engine up to almost temp with the coolant overflow cap of.
3. Drive slowly up and down a steep incline.
4. Let the engine cool for a day and then start it up and get the RPM's up.

Sometimes its just start it up, drive it around until it gets hot, shut it down let cool down and do it again. Eventually the air pocket will get pushed out.


Also, second the in-line mod....

 

I know it sounds crazy, but I might suspect the actual temperature sensor. I recently installed a new one (non Bosch) and got higher temperature readings than I had before. I then sourced out a genuine Bosch unit and installed it, and the temperature readings came back down. I suspect a defective temp sensor, but Rovers North had no history of issues or returns. Then again, it was a $15. sensor, so perhaps not many people (myself included) bother to spend the money to return it.
Just a thought.

 

About that fan clutch, does the engine fan really roar when first started cold, then quiet down after higher revs for a minute or so, or a mile down the road or so? Or does the engine fan always sound the same? If it doesn't roar, then it needs to be replaced. The feel when cold is a bit stiff even on a bad unit. It takes experience comparing good and bad units before you can feel the difference. Is there dirt built-up on the fins indicating the silicon fluid leaked?