nissen radiator
#11
Here's the thread on it:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...adiator-36679/
And another one with an altrnative to using those 2 top screws altogether:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...upgrade-59523/
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...adiator-36679/
And another one with an altrnative to using those 2 top screws altogether:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...upgrade-59523/
#14
Before the new radiator comes, you can remove your grille and still drive around.
I would at least do that.
This involves removing trim to the sides of the grill by removing the screws with a long long phillips through the wheel wells.
Then the grill via the attaching screws at the top.
These are plastic screws, so you need the proper phillips as not to strip the plastic screws.
You remove a plastic screw from the grill retaining and then pop the screw rivet off and put it in a safe place.
You will want to remove the horns too.
There are bolts behind the horns and UNDER the FOAM behind the horns you need to access.
I would at least do that.
This involves removing trim to the sides of the grill by removing the screws with a long long phillips through the wheel wells.
Then the grill via the attaching screws at the top.
These are plastic screws, so you need the proper phillips as not to strip the plastic screws.
You remove a plastic screw from the grill retaining and then pop the screw rivet off and put it in a safe place.
You will want to remove the horns too.
There are bolts behind the horns and UNDER the FOAM behind the horns you need to access.
#15
When I swapped my radiator, I followed the rave for the most part. I did not disconnect the couplers for the coolers. I separared the coolers from the radiator when it was in the DII. There is only 1 screw on each cooler to remove to separate them.
I did remove, the headlight finishers, grill and horns and battery box. This gives you access to the bolts and screws holding the upper radiator brackets on.
The
I did remove, the headlight finishers, grill and horns and battery box. This gives you access to the bolts and screws holding the upper radiator brackets on.
The
#17
Why not take it apart in the truck? Many here have done it that way. Just because the RAVE says take ir out with the coolers doesn't mean its the best or easiest way. If you stand by your theory, did you replace your front driveshaft with a non-greasable because it was designed that way?
Last edited by acamato; 03-03-2014 at 10:58 AM.
#18
I dont know where you live, but corrosion is an issue for some of us.
#19
Yeah, I hear ya.
You are probably in the North East and that's how it goes.
I can't say my couplers where easy to deal with.
I did them as a result of NOT being able to deal with the oil cooler and transcooler removal
in the truck.
I felt the removal of the trans and oil cooler involved WAY MUCH more work.
with taking off the air baffles, little plastic screws and then using right angle
crazy rachet screw drivers to get off #3 Phillips heads on the radiator holding on the
accessories.
I think this took me two weeks of on and off work and I thought it was worse in some ways from the head gaskets.
At least the head gaskets are straightforward.
Ah well.
The result was worth it.
Rover never acted up after that.
You are probably in the North East and that's how it goes.
I can't say my couplers where easy to deal with.
I did them as a result of NOT being able to deal with the oil cooler and transcooler removal
in the truck.
I felt the removal of the trans and oil cooler involved WAY MUCH more work.
with taking off the air baffles, little plastic screws and then using right angle
crazy rachet screw drivers to get off #3 Phillips heads on the radiator holding on the
accessories.
I think this took me two weeks of on and off work and I thought it was worse in some ways from the head gaskets.
At least the head gaskets are straightforward.
Ah well.
The result was worth it.
Rover never acted up after that.