I just got the 96 Discovery (4.0/186K) home and the drive from MD into VA was good. I did notice two things of concern. The braking, it seems like there isnt alot of hhmmpf behind them, almost like I have to totaly put the pedal to the floor to stop. Also, when I do come to a stop the truck wants to lurch forward, as if the accelarator is mashed, but my foot is on the brake.

I know I am going to do a 'tune up'; plugs, oil, filters, wiresetc...and I will run some sea foam to clean the fuel delivery system out (I am thinking old fuel or clogged filter).

I guess my question is, do I need to worry about these things? I have never even driven one of these trucks and have no idea how they should handle/feel when driven. I wouldn't think these issues are normal, as they dont feel quite right. But I am still learning about these trucks so I thought I would ask. Thanks.

 

Welcome to the club. I have a '96 Disco and I just got back from a VA to FL to VA trip and the Disco did great (except for the gas mileage of course ). About the brakes, I never have felt real secure with them, but I, 1) put speed bleeders on them so it would be easier to bleed them, and 2) replaced the rubber brake lines with braided stainless steel ones, and 3) of course keep good OEM (soft) pads and rotors anduse DOT4 brake fluid. I still get the ABS light on when I hit a good size bump, but that clears with the ign switch. I'm not sure about the "lurch", maybe it has something to do with the idle stepper motor, but it doesn't sound normal. The Seafoam is a good idea, stick with paper air filter (not K&N) and only use premium (93) gas. Just my opinions, and I only go off-road once in a blue moon.

 

I think your on the money,, good advice.

 

I would suspect your brake'smaster cylinder, especially ifthe brake pedal slowly goes to the floor when stopping.If the lurch happens as your coming toa stopit could be your ABS system reacting to the leak.Personally, I would bleed the brakesREAL good and look for any fluid leaks anywhere from the master cylinder to the calipers. The master cylinder could still be leaking internally and you would not see it though. Hopefully there is just air in the line somewhere, but if there is air in the ABS pump you may have trouble bleeding it out, I'm not sure.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I know I will have a better idea of the problems once the simple stuff is done. I have a scan tool so I will plug it in and see what I get, no lights yet but you never know. I spent about 88 bucks on a tune up kit, not bad for some stuff. Once its done I will check the brakes and all. Do the 02 sensors go out often? How about the MAF (if they have them)?

Thanks again.

 

O2 sensors start to go bad after 60k, your trk has four of them. They will cut back on your MPG and you MUST replace all four at once. If you only do one or two at a time it will mess with the ECU and really mess with your MPG.
The MAF will last a long time as long as you dont try to clean it or use a K&N air filter.

 

Try following your vacuum hoses from your power brake booster (big round black UFO lookin thing on your firewall)

There should be a small rubber hose leading from it to a canister and a few other lines on the back of your motor. Make sure they're all connected ..

Just seems like a vacuum leak somewhere (some reason im getting that assumption when you say the motor lurches)

Reason your pedal goes to the floor is either , really thin pads (do you hear metal scratchinwhen you stop for the first time in the morning or coming home from work?, master cylinder is out, or power brake booster is out.

Does it consistently lower to the floor? or do you feel a slight vibration when you reach down to the bottom ?

Could just be contaminated fluid (water in fluid) making little white foam monsters and making ur fluid not as effective :P

just my 2 cents ..

 

I agree with the others. Put it up on jackstands, pull the wheels and inspect the brake pads and completely bleed the brakes. It could be that the vehicle sat quite a while before you bought it and the rotors are rusty and aren't gripping well. Sometimes just driving it will remove the rust, othertimes ya have to replace them. If the pads are really low, might as well replace w/new. Most here buy their pads from Atlantic British.com as they sell the kind that don't squeal (a problem on these rigs). Then, there is the master cylinder which was already covered. Master Cylinders do fail so do the checks like advised above. If after thoroughly bleeding the brakes the pedal gradually creeps to the floor, then it's time to replace the M/C. And like others said, be sure to use DOT 4 brake fluid. I used Castrol as that was all I could find.

 

The brake issue is about gone now. I put a caliper on the pads and found there to still be enough wear left. The disks were only spent about .0300. I have no way of knowing how ling it sat, as mentioned before but, I topped off the reservoir and it seems to be better. I will bleed tham this weekend unless the wife (or myself)has spring cleaning fever. I found the lurch to be attributed to a faulty hose from PCV to intake, so I will replace the valve and hose. Thanks for all the advice. Again, I knew the things weren't quite right but I wasnt sure if it was just the feel of the truck or what.

 

So, uh, where does the obd reader plug in at? I dont have a manual for the truck yet. Is there even a chiltons or (yikes) haynes or do I need to look somewhere else?

The hoses at the fuel tank are shot too. So I am off to the parts store again.