Yes sir, all 8.
I haven't measured any of them, but the pistons have very little carbon build up, and the block bores looked really good. I would buy a new set of rings if I were you.
I have the 4.0 crank too, but it'll need milled for oversized bearings, as it has lots of ridges that you can hang a fingernail on.
Also have a decent looking cam and lifters(in order in an egg carton).
You can have it all if you want it.
Just pay shipping or pick it up.

 

I would pressure test that block.
My concern would be that a water jacket got cracked.
That you would spend time rebuilding it only for it to leak coolant.
It's below the ring line, but the piston skirt is still going to contact that spot too, and could cause premature wear or even a knock.

 

I had pressure tested the coolant system before taking it apart a few days ago. Would that tell me if there was a crack in the block? I saw no pressure drop after about a half hour at 15psi.
So how do you want to take care of shipping those pistons? Is there a way to send a private message with address and shipping info, or should I email you, or . . . ?

 

You can pm me and we'll work out the details.
But, I would pressure test that bare block first.
Extinct's post #13 is an an easy how to.
My concern is a leak at the crack, and/or it damaging the piston.
As said, you're welcome to these parts for free...but the last thing I want to see is you spend time and gasket money on a full rebuild, only to have a useless block and time and money down the drain.
I doubt I have a box for these pistons here, but no problem, I can get one at work on monday.
I'll get them ready to go if you're going to need them.
However, if that running and free 4.0 is close by, I think that should be your first choice. Should you get that 4.0 and still want the pistons and rods, that's fine, you can still have them.

 

Probably a good idea. But what free 4.0 (engine?) are you referring to? I agree that replacing with a running engine (especially if free) is the best option. Not sure how much additional testing (i.e. $$$) I'm willing to put into this engine . . .
To test with block off plates do you need to remove the block? If so, can this be done with a compound pulley from the ceiling joists in my garage, or will I need an engine hoist? How much would a shop charge to do a heated block test.

 

There is a member in NY who has offered his parts truck with a running 4.0 free to a couple of members here.
I thought you were one of them.
The block itself is not heavy, 60-80lbs.
Up to you to lift by ceiling joists or rent an engine crane.
I would definately test that block before spending a dime in it, as it looks pretty iffy right now.
These pistons and rods will be here if you need them.
As someone who just rebuilt an engine, only to have 3 cylinders leak coolant, and from a block that tested good, then to have to source a 4.0 block and start over, I just want you to be sure before you waste time and money.

 

Buy a engine hoist off of craigslist and then sell it when done - basically no cost, just a little hassle.

 

Sorry for your troubles. I am amazed at your patience and persistence in troubleshooting this. Well done!

 

A buddy came over and looked at this engine with me and he noticed that the cylinder where I had the bent rod was steam cleaned compared to the others. Not completely pristine, but very little residue. Could this have happened in the 10-20 minutes of run time that it had a coolant leak which led to the hydrolock and bent rod, or does this point to there being some kind of long term leak that I did not catch before? I'm just not sure how long it would take a coolant leak to steam clean the cylinder. Minutes?? Months??

 

Don’t think it would be months to steam clean a piston. I wouldn’t trust the block you have with the cracked sleeve. Sorry to say but you need to get either a parts truck or a new to you block. Parts truck can be a roll of the dice on the block or you can source a tested block from a vendor.