I started to change my Transmission fluid and gear oil (next).

I noticed several Oil leaks. as you can tell I have not been under the truck in a while.

I took some pic. I will take some more as I move on. on the Pic i have few questions.

1. Front differential looks soak with oil on the bottom side. wonder if that is coming from the front seal or just leak?

2. There definitely some leak between Tranny and Engine seal. I wonder if tightening those Bolts help.

3. Pic # 3 I see drips of Coolant. Have no idea where that coolant is coming from !!

will appreciate if anyone can share if you had similar issues.

Thanks

 

ah man!! I had these exact same leaks with the coolant & motor oil. I fixed all of mine; 4-weeks & a good $800 I'd say...

 

got few more picture. Joe did you do the work yourself? Looks titally messed up. I am going to power wash the bottom. I wonder if all the Synthetic Gear oil, transmission and motor oil screwing things up "Bigly"

 

When was the last head gasket job? Seems like coming from the back of the engine. Mine looked like that before the head gasket collapsed. Hope I'm mistaken. Something like over a quart per oil change.

 

First off with any oil leak it can be coming from the front crank seal, timing cover, oil pressure switch, or oil pan and being blown backwards with the engine fan and driving. I wouldn't power wash it, instead I'd use some brake clean and literally spray the heck out of it.

The coolant from the rear of the engine is most likely the cooling jacket on the back of the head seeping. My 02 Kalahari does this with 228K on it, and once warmed up it'll stop seeping although it is leaking nothing at all like a few drops compared to yours. Pretty common issue with the LR V8. The coolant leak towards the front could be the weep hole on the water pump or another common LR issue = loose longer bolts on the water pump that go directly into the cooling channel. I've fixed many front coolant leaks by just tightening up those longer bolts.

Transfer Cases on LR's are known to seep. I've switched to 85/140w vs 80/90w and it's helped with some of the seeping. Not sure if I would recommend that thick of gear oil up north in colder climates, but in TX it's fine.

Also the rear main seals are known to seep (seems all my 4x4's from Jeeps with the 4.0L I6 & the LR V8 are famous for it). And the valve covers are another good seepy spot. Get yourself a 12point 8mm and try tightening them first.

Since you're in TX I'd switch over to a longer M301 Oil Filter, and use some Rotella 15/40w oil. Once you spray it down with the brake clean you should have a much better idea where the oil leaks are coming from.

I just fixed a pretty major leak on my 99. It seeped and left it's mark wherever I'd park it overnight. Well over time it got bigger and bigger until it was kinda leaking a mess like yours. I used brake clean wiped it all down, fired it up and laid under it. I noticed a drip quickly coming down the oil filter so I followed it up to find my Oil Pressure Switch was leaking out the weep hole. In my case since it was a 99 I had to actually get the Oil Pressure Switch off of a 98 D1 as 00 and up D2's have a completely different thread and style Oil Pressure Switch. It was a super tight fit, but I took my time got the old one off, replaced it, and bingo no more massive oil leaks.

 

Yes I fixed it all myself. Outside of my apartment with hand tools. At night. Proud of my work though & didn't get raped by a repair shop. Probably saved me $1500 or $2K.

I'm not going to write you a lecture on it. We already have our PM convo so shoot me a message with your thoughts & concerns.

 

Thank you for writing this long diagnosis. I just replaced VC gasket and replaced those bolts with something stronger. Let me follow your directions to clean up and see what next.

I have been using WIX 51515 for a long time it's the longer version. All my leaks started when I started to use Synthetic Oil. Mobile 1 1st and leaked right away. I dumped that then switched to Rotella 6 Synth. I think I am going to take your advice and switch to Rotella 15/40w oil.

My 3 BMW's take Mobile Full Synth but no leak anywhere.

 

no major engine work was done on this truck. Truck has only 75k mileage. I am the only owner. Truck sat around for a long time. Rusted bottom from salt and snow in Pittsburgh.

I just replaced Valve cover gasket. i will slowly work on other areas.

 

I wonder if I go around and tighten rear main seals and front Differential would help as temporary band aid.

 

You know the saying Sayeed, "if a Landrover doesn't leak oil ya want to worry, it usually means it's all leaked out already"

However, the underside of your truck looks pretty bad for oil leak(s). A process of elimination after degreasing and jet washing it down. At the current age and not so much the mileage all the seals may have age hardened and progressively require replacement. There are two methods, oil compatible fluorescein fluid or powder in one oil at a time and search with a ultra violet black light or talcum powder (babies bum powder) around the suspected area after cleaning down thoroughly, personally, I prefer the former idea it's more directional.

Oil seals to consider:

1. Inner front driveshafts/halfshafts at the end of the axles behind the CV joints both sides.
2. Front differential pinion seal.
3. Engine front and rear seals.
4. Autobox front seal and rear output seal to transfer box.
5. Transfer box input seal.
6. Transfer box output seals front and rear at the flanges (to the driveshafts)
7. Rear differential pinion seal.
8. Rear axle halfshaft O rings both sides.

All of these seals are Corteco OEM seals except the O rings (#8) LR part, worth the extra or at least a top quality equivalent.

Good luck, have fun eh

In your photos I can see engine oil (possible front or rear engine seals) and green coolant leaking from somewhere. It's difficult to see the other oils and where they appear from.